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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had my chain replaced about a half a year ago and have adjusted it twice. Both times the left adjuster bolt is very difficult to turn. I thought it would strip so I didn't put too much pressure on it. Now I want to adjust my chain and it seems even harder to turn. I know the chain is the right length and I still have adjustment room. (the adjuster bolts still have a half inch of adjusment left.)

I have been first loosening the two large nuts on the right side of the swingarm, then loosening the 12mm locking nuts. then I remove the 12mm bolts. Is there something I am missing.
 

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I would pull the long adjustment bolts out & look them over.Make sure there the same length. Also check the threads on the bolts & in the swinger, & put some anti-seize on the bolts.
It is possible that your at the end of your adjustment so be careful you don't over tighten the bolt & trash your threads..
Good luck..
 

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Master of the Electron
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put some penetrating oil on the adjusters and play them back and forth - remove the difficult one, oil and replace... see if this takes care of problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well I feel like a complete idiot. I sprayed them with PB rust buster and let it soak in. Then I tried to remove them and they moved about a half inch, at which point it got easier to turn. So I kept going and all of the sudden snap! I sheared the left asdjuster bolt off:mad:. It broke right at the swinger. What can I do now?
 

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Buy a +4 swing arm!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
A new swinger isnt and probably never will be in my price range. at least I like stock lenght just fine. Is there anyway of fixing what I have?
 

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Can u weld alluinum? If not do u know someone that can? If not a have a stock one ill sale u for 50.00 plus shipping, it comes with carrier and bearings. You can weld a nother piece back on. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I think I can find someone to weld aluminum, but I am confused. Are you saying that if I bought yours it would need welding or that somehow i might be able to save mine by welding it.
 

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U might can save yours by welding it. If you post a pic it would be easier to tell you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I cant take a picture as my camera is broken. Is there anyway I can drill out the old bolt and retap it without removing the swingarrm? I really don't have much more money to invest in this pile. I also don't get a lot of time to work on things. Thanks to all the advice but is there any simpler fixes out there?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Alright I decided to remove the swingarm and drill out both holes for heilcoils. my question is what are some tips on heilcoils? Things to avoid? I am also wondering if I can remove the swingarm without taking the axle out. What do I need to remove besides the brake caliper, shock linkage, and large pivot bolt? Thanks in advance
 

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The same thing happened to a friends Raptor...The bolt bottomed out and snapped off even with the aluminum. A machinist friend of mine drilled both bolt holes out and installed steel threaded plugs so we could install new allen head adjusting bolts. So you will need to remove the swing arm and check with a local machine shop and see if they can help you. Good Luck!!!

PS...I also tried to drill it out with the swing arm in place and it's about impossible to get a drill in there straight because the shock mount is in the way.

Willy suggested welding a bolt on top of the one that is broke off then you will have something to grab a hold of...But the one I was working on was broke off too far into the alum to get a weld on it.
 

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Alright I decided to remove the swingarm and drill out both holes for heilcoils. my question is what are some tips on heilcoils? Things to avoid? I am also wondering if I can remove the swingarm without taking the axle out. What do I need to remove besides the brake caliper, shock linkage, and large pivot bolt? Thanks in advance

You can remove the arm without removing the axle but I'm may be kind of bulky while trying to drill out the bolts and if you take it to a machine shop I'm sure they would prefer having the axle removed so they can clamp it down on a bench.

The guy that fixed mine used something called "Keylock Thread Repair" and it is a slick setup...I wish I had a pic of the repair to post.
 

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Master of the Electron
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Why would you need to weld a swinger that just has a bolt end stuck in it? I'm confused...

You can weld a nut to the bolt that's stuck - you can drill it out - you can use a punch to turn it back and forth to free it up (use more penetrating oil first)...

This is why I said play it back and forth - if it tightens up at all, more oil, more back and forth.
 

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When using penetating oil (PB blaster), you shuold let it soak for a couple days while reapplying every 12 hrs or so. This can take up to a week with realy bonded bolts. Try a easy out bolt exstractor (sears or harbor freight) to remove the broken bolt. You have to be able to drill a small hole in the center of the broken bolt for the easy out bolt exstractor. If this dosent work, completly drill it out and Tap it for a new bolt using a addapter.
 

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I was confused as to where and how it was broke. Disregard my suggestions .
 

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I dont mean to thread jack, but i just got a 660 and the chain is VERY loose... compared to the one on my Honda 450er... but i think my chain is as tight as it goes... Im new to the 660 world so yea... lol the two tension screws seem to be completely tight and perhaps two more complete turns and they would be totally down.... how far out should they be for a new chain?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well since easy outs rarely work I am just going to weld the nit onto the bolt and spray with rustbuster some more. My hope is that the combo of heat and rustbuster will free the corrosion mix of aluminum and steel thereby freeing the bolt. Then I plan to remove the swinger so that i can better access the two adjuster threads. I am going to do it the right way and get ss time-sert thread inserts. This steel to steel will hopefully fix the problem forever.

ps I sprayed every five minutes for an hour or so. I did rock it back and forth and it seemed like it wanted to come out. I then started to remove it and it came pretty easy until snap. It broke off with five threads evposed and with about 3/4 inch left in the swinger.
 

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Master of the Electron
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I dont mean to thread jack, but i just got a 660 and the chain is VERY loose... compared to the one on my Honda 450er... but i think my chain is as tight as it goes... Im new to the 660 world so yea... lol the two tension screws seem to be completely tight and perhaps two more complete turns and they would be totally down.... how far out should they be for a new chain?
Likely your chain is stretched beyond adjustment and needs replacement.

With someone sitting on the quad, pull up and down on top of chain at a point centered between front and rear sprocket. You should be have between 3/4" to 1 1/4" of travel, or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The chain has about ten hours on is so i doubt it is streched too much. I have taken good care of my whole quad. The dealership instaled it so maybe a link needs to be removed? But like I said earlier i still have a good 3/4 inch of adjustment yet so I think that part is fine. I know i didn't bottom the adjuster out. i believe that the aluminum and steel bonded together through different corrosion and expansion rates. i also think the threads are intact, only the corrosion bond is holding it in place.
 
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