Yeah this was talked about a lengths. I've yet to change my oil. From what I remember, some guys are experiecing the problem of the threads being chewed off when they remove the bolt. That really blows.
Definately an issue of soft metal for the threads, ie crankcase, and disimilar metals with different expansion rates causing the threads to fracture.
Tiggy, that's exactly why I'm going with the Fram fix... my threads are still new and *hopefully* taking the drain bolt out one time won't damage them... then I'm gonna put some Teflon tape and a new crush washer on before the SureDrain goes in so there's no guessing. Unless teflon tape won't work in this situation... I'm no expert by any means! I even thought about putting a litle mild Loctite on there to be sure... I still have more than 18 hours before my first oil change is due though... it's still brand new! I did manage to break a zerk fitting off the shock linkage though... :banghead:
Re: Thread help on oil plug!!
« Reply #65 on: December 22, 2006, 07:21:43 PM » Quote
I just figured out an inexpensive and easy work around.
I was toying with the idea of a Fram SureDrain or Fumoto valve last week when I read about this issue. It really isn't good dropping 7K on a ride, and then it has such a weak point in a very vulnerable area (like dumping its lifeblood on the trail, and letting you know once the engine siezes...15 miles from your truck...at -20º below...in your underwear...with no beer...2 days after your GF dumped you for a guy named Sven...)
So, tonight, I bit the bullet and put a 21mm socket to the factory-sealed engine case drain bolt. Cocked my head to the side, gave the bolt the ol' Festus eye, and with a counter-clockwise nudge, she was loose. No drama, no trauma. Spun it out the rest of the way by hand, and my threads were pristine.
Grabbed my spare Fram SureDrain (Model# SD-2, Thread M14x1.5). Fits like OJ's glove. Tight, but guilty. Guilty of doing the job. Like a charm, too.
See the photo essay, below. Sorry about the cellcam shots. I can redo these with a 5MP digi later.
The Fram is just a half a mm longer, and last week I though it'd be too long and hang too low, but with my ProArmor skid in place, its actually tucking up, down on up in there, nicely.
For those who haven't obliterated their threads, this may be an option for you. I am going to go with it.
For those who have tapped their original threads, there may be a Fram or Fumoto that'll fit the tap size you used.
For those who are going to tap their original threads, this may help you pick a tap size that'll accommodate one of these drain plugs.
yea, the threada came out with my bolt when I changed the oil. I ended up tapping to a bigger size and havnt had a problem changing the oil yet. The new threads that are in it now are alot deeper than the ones that ripped out. Just becareful when you remove the bolt. I would loosen it and then take the rest out with your hand and when you tighten it back up use your hand and then just turn it a little bit with the wrench. It doesnt have to be real tight or the treads will strip.
i stipped mine out too, and the worst part about it was it stripped when i was using a torque wrench, and it was only at like 6 lbs... i was just turning it and i felt it give i ended up taking it to a local machin shop they put a brass insert in there with a plug in that, so now i can crank on it all i want with no worries :thumbsup: it hangs down a bit though so i have to make sure i keep my skid plate on