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Discussion Starter #1
so surfing around e-bay, i have noticed alot of these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ATV-Radiator-Yamaha-YFM660-YFM-660-Raptor-oversized-NEW-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c15229618QQitemZ120613672472QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

has anyone purchased one of these, and do they perform as well as similiar brand name(fluiddyne, pwr) radiators? just wondering because price wise, they are about a third of the price, and claim to be 30% more cooling capacity, just as the other brand name radiators do, with triple the price tag. i want to get one and save some money at the same time, but dont want to get ripped off in the process. i have checked all the sellers feedback that sell these radiators, and everyone seems to be very satisfied, so im not sure what to think. any input is greatly appreciated.
 

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It is a chineese radiator.

Are you having overheating problems?
 

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I haven't heard much about them here on the forum, but a few people are running them on their raptors (660 and 700) and I haven't seen any rants about them being junk yet.

I'm with 03LER in wondering if you're having overheating issues or why you're set on a radiator upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
have finished a big build, 660 based 762 hv ports, 39's, the whole nine yards. had overheating issues with a previous build that was only a 686.
 

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I ask because the OEM cooling system of the 660 is quite good, it has no problem keeping my 727 cool on a hot day. Failed t-stats, fan switches, radiator caps, water pumps and seals and the like are common causes of poor cooling capacity. Your system may be working properly and simply isn't up to the task but overheating issues on a 686 should not be commonplace.
 

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I ask because the OEM cooling system of the 660 is quite good, it has no problem keeping my 727 cool on a hot day. Failed t-stats, fan switches, radiator caps, water pumps and seals and the like are common causes of poor cooling capacity. Your system may be working properly and simply isn't up to the task but overheating issues on a 686 should not be commonplace.
Yea check that stuff. I dont have any problems with my build overheating.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i hard wired my fan switch so i can turn it on at will, it never seemed to turn on when temps got high at all. btw i usually ride in hot summer weather, trees some so not alot of airflow usually. is there maybe something wrong with my thermostat that is causing it to not open, in turn not telling the fan switch to kick on? does the thermostat and the fan switch work in corrilation with each other? is there someone that sells lower temp thermostats perhaps?
 

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The thermostat just opens and closes as the engine heats up. After the system reaches xxx temp the fan kicks on. The sensor in the bottom of the radiator is what kicks the fan on.

I would rather let my raptor's sensors turn the fan on and off. That way the engine gets up to operating temp and stays their. That and you dont have to worry about turing the fan on and off.

I have a temp gauge in my raptor and the fan doesnt kick on until the engine is at around 220-225 deg. It takes quite a bitl of idle time to reach that temperature. When I am riding the fan doenst really kick on. Average temp is 180-200 deg f.

Get an ESR temp gauge and mount it in the upper radiator hose as close to the engine as possible. That way you KNOW what the temps are. It will work out much better for you than just saying it is to hot, going by the fan, or waiting for the over heat light to come on.

 

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What would you consider an "overheating temp" that you should shut the quad off at? I have a TrailTech Vapor and have my yellow light at 200 and my red light at 215. Usually if it gets and stays above 215 I shut it off (lots of high RPM low gear riding on a hot day and I think my headgasket may have been leaking).

Is 220 too high to run it at?
 

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I would get concerned around 225-230 or so. It depends on where the temp sensor is. The closer it is to the cylinder head the higher it is going to read.

The thermostat is supose to start opening at 156-163 deg F. and be fully opened at 185 deg F.

The factory yamaha temp light should come on at 248 deg F. + or - 5 deg. And it should shut of at 239 deg F. + or - 5 deg.

The temp light sensor is in the thermostat housing far away from the engine so with these temps I would see a way hotter reading on my ESR Temp gauge.


Then the fan sensor is mounted in the bottom of the radiator.

It should kick on at around 208 deg F + or - 5 deg F. It should shut off at around 197 deg F. + or - 5 deg F.
 

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Sweet. My temp sensor is mounted right where that dial thermometer was a few posts before. When I was setting my lights on the Vapor I couldn't find the numbers and set my lights low just to be on the safe side. I have never really gotten my quad much higher than 218-225.
 

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Yea you should be good to go. Just going by the temps that the sensors operate at. Yamaha says that 248 is overheating.
 

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Thermo switch 1 (fan switch) is supposed to come on at 208F at the bottom of the radiator (after cooling thru the core) and thermo switch 2 (light switch) comes on at 248F at the thermostat.

Max: I certainly wouldn't be worrying about 215F or 220F on your Trailtech (I assume you're measuring upper hose or thermostat housing temp).

Jesse: What makes you think you're running hot?

If the fan system is working and it doesn't come on, you're not running too hot, period. I test my fan by placing a sheet of printer paper over the radiator and letting the bike idle. At about 75F outside, the fan will come on after about 10 minutes of idle (and lower radiator temp measured 210F with a non contact IR thermometer). After a couple of minutes the fan will go off again and then begin cycling - a minute or so on, then a couple off.

If this test works, yet fan does not come on while riding (or just cycles while riding) you are in a good, safe temperature regime.

I have found it hard to tell if fan came on while riding (too much noise, busy riding and avoiding killing myself, etc.,) so I have considered adding a light to tell me when it is switched on. For those of us with reverse limiter locked out (which makes the reverse light useless), just wiring the positive side of the reverse light (green/blue wire at the light) to the blue wire at fan will now use that light as a fan ON indicator.
 

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That's a good idea QM.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
when i would be riding for a long period of time, the overheat light would come on, but the fan would never come on. i could also tell in terms of performance, just by seat of the pants feel there was a noticeable loss of power due to the overheating, then would just let it sit for quite a while and let it cool back off, and once i did ride it again, you could definately feel the power difference. this wasnt like it came on all of a sudden though. its more like riding through trails with thick trees for a prolonged period of time, or after making several passes down the makeshift track back to back. but the fan wouldnt come on, even once the overheat light did. just be a bad fan sensor perhaps?
after these issues, i was reading up about spark plug heat ranges, and went one range up, and the next time out, the light didnt come on at all, and that did seem to help.
 

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I would start with the fan thermo switch in the bottom of the radiator. I think guys have also used the Rhino temp sensor. They say it comes on at a lower temp. I cant conferm or deny.

You might look down the radiator with the cap off and drained. Look and see if there is any excessive build up of calcium / lime or other minerals.

Putting in a new thermostat wouldnt hurt ethire.
 

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Master of the Electron
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Okay, then it's time to fix the fan circuit... Certainly a lot cheaper, easier and more necessary than getting a new radiator (especially since you'll need a working fan EVEN with a new radiator).

Unplug the thermo switch 1 connector at bottom of radiator. With key switch on, short across the two pins in the connector. If fan comes on, the thermo switch is bad. If it doesn't come on, either the fan motor is bad or the fan circuit breaker is bad... measure voltage on both connector pins relative to ground - if you see 12V on either one the motor is bad. If you do not see 12V on either pin, the breaker is bad or a wire is broken.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
i will for sure do that. i have it torn down into pieces right now, getting some new color.
the thing is though, while all this is going on, i had the fan on constantly with my switch toggled on. and i could tell it was on because i would constantly check to see if it was still working, while it was getting too hot.
i will buy a new thermostat, and i have looked inside, it is clean.
 

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Sorry, you said "when i would be riding for a long period of time, the overheat light would come on, but the fan would never come on" - not that your fan was hard wired on... which is it?

So, if the overheat light still comes on WITH the fan on I'd start checking to see what else is wrong. Time to check the water pump and radiator for proper flow, the thermostat for proper opening, etc.

Throw the thermostat in a pot with water on the stove, with a cooking thermometer. Tie a piece of wire to the thermo so you can pull it out easily - it should start opening at 165F and be fully open around 185F... if no thermometer available, it should be fully open when small bubbles start coming up in the water. If the thermostat is working properly, time to check the water pump.

You can't tell if the fan is "working" by looking while riding - airflow will make it turn... check when sitting at idle.
 
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