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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought this quad a while back, and it supposedly had a new clutch installed. I adjusted the cable so it's as loose as possible and it still seems like the clutch arm going into the case has too much tension on it. Did the guy install the arm wrong? Is there a way to check this? The clutch seems to grab but doesnt start engaging until the handle is about 3/4 of the way out. I don't want to fry this thing and would appreciate any advice! Thanks guys!

Tony
 

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Master of the Electron
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If it fully engages and disengages, doesn't slip under heavy load and you have at least 1/8" of free play on the lever when released, I don't see any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't have the "nickle's width" of play between the perch and lever though and the cable is as loose as I can get it. As soon as I pull the lever, the arm begins to move.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hmmmm, thing is... as the clutch wears, I'll have zero adjustment left to make sure the pressure plate is fully applied.
 

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Hmmmm, thing is... as the clutch wears, I'll have zero adjustment left to make sure the pressure plate is fully applied.
Check the clutch arm at the transmission housing, with all the slack removed, two timing marks should align, one on the housing and the other a dot on the arm.................:)
 

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Master of the Electron
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The arm will always move, the play is before you start to feel the arm press on the clutch release - you will suddenly feel more force necessary to keep pulling the lever.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
K, FINALLY got my quad out of dad's toy hauler to do some maintenance before heading to the dunes Wednesday. Checked the marks, they aren't aligned, not really even close. Looking at the passenger side, the portion of the lever that the cable is attached to is way to the left of where it should be, which makes the mark further to the right of the case marking. I have this thing as loose as I can to get it to engage fully, I'm really afraid of slipping, especially in the dunes with paddles. Do I need snap ring pliers to remove the lever arm attached to the shaft in the case to readjust? What do you guys recommend? This is supposedly a new EBC (I believe) clutch that the guy installed before I got it.

Appreciate the help guys!
 

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Check the clutch arm at the transmission housing, with all the slack removed, two timing marks should align, one on the housing and the other a dot on the arm.................:)
The arm will always move, the play is before you start to feel the arm press on the clutch release - you will suddenly feel more force necessary to keep pulling the lever.
As said previously the mark should align with pressure on the arm, and it is easiest with snap ring pliers..........
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So take the slack out (Make the cable as short as possible) and align the marks. I'll grab some snap ring pliers and see what I can do. Thanks buddy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Got it adjusted, worked out great Wednesday-Sunday at the dunes! Dad is hooked now... he rode mine and said he had to have one. I was riding my friend's 700 with ported head, cam, intake and GYTR exhaust (this thing hauls btw). Dad wanted to try it since I told him my buddy was selling it. He loved the suspension (way better than my 03) and power. We drag raced and he beat me to about 50-55 in the sand by 2 lengths and still pulling. I'm 260lbs, he's 190lbs so I'm sure that had a little to do with it but I don't care what people say, the sand shark's I've got on mine dead hook, but... make it hard to turn sometimes if you're too far back on the seat. Also wasn't sure if I was a fan of the spacers on the back and flipped wheels on the front (it's how I got it).

Now... Not 100% sure if I should keep this bike and mod a 700 or stick with it, do a 686 12:1 setup with a stage 2 or 3 hotcam and ported head.
 

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Got it adjusted, worked out great Wednesday-Sunday at the dunes! Dad is hooked now... he rode mine and said he had to have one. I was riding my friend's 700 with ported head, cam, intake and GYTR exhaust (this thing hauls btw). Dad wanted to try it since I told him my buddy was selling it. He loved the suspension (way better than my 03) and power. We drag raced and he beat me to about 50-55 in the sand by 2 lengths and still pulling. I'm 260lbs, he's 190lbs so I'm sure that had a little to do with it but I don't care what people say, the sand shark's I've got on mine dead hook, but... make it hard to turn sometimes if you're too far back on the seat. Also wasn't sure if I was a fan of the spacers on the back and flipped wheels on the front (it's how I got it).

Now... Not 100% sure if I should keep this bike and mod a 700 or stick with it, do a 686 12:1 setup with a stage 2 or 3 hotcam and ported head.
A well setup 660 based engine has the same potential as the 700 based engine...........
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What jacks me up is the fact that we hit the dunes at sea level and 60º weather, then turn around later in the season and hit the mojave desert close to 3000' ASL and 80º. Isn't jetting going to cause a substantial performance difference between these two locations? Still so new to the quad world, honestly not sure what to do from here!
 

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Master of the Electron
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Unlike automotive F/I systems that use an O2 sensor to adjust the mixture to match elevation and other parameter changes, the F/I in the 700 doesn't fully correct for these changes (no O2 sensor)... you really need an aftermarket fuel controller to properly make it leaner for the increase in elevation and temperature. Granted, changing mixture profile in the controller is easier than changing jets, but it's still an aftermarket option.

On your 660, you may notice that you're running a bit richer at 3000' and 80 degrees (btw, how'd you get the degree mark there?) but it's not going to be a huge change. Typically this would be around one Mikuni jet size leaner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Unlike automotive F/I systems that use an O2 sensor to adjust the mixture to match elevation and other parameter changes, the F/I in the 700 doesn't fully correct for these changes (no O2 sensor)... you really need an aftermarket fuel controller to properly make it leaner for the increase in elevation and temperature. Granted, changing mixture profile in the controller is easier than changing jets, but it's still an aftermarket option.

On your 660, you may notice that you're running a bit richer at 3000' and 80 degrees (btw, how'd you get the degree mark there?) but it's not going to be a huge change. Typically this would be around one Mikuni jet size leaner.
I wasn't aware of that, I thought the 700's used an O2 to meter! Wish there was an easier way to get the carbs in and out just to swap jets. Guess if I run a desert jet for half the season, and a dunes jet setup the rest, it's not that big of a deal, I'm just whining lol.

I got the º there holding alt and 167. My nickname used to be Fahrenheit 451º back in the day on ICQ. :cool:
 

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Ah, yes... I forgot all about those Alt/Numeric characters - used to use them all the time, back in DOS days... then Windows came along and everybody got lazy, lol.

BTW, the 700 does have a pressure sensor in the throttle body venturi, but getting atmospheric pressure (to calc elevation and appropriate mixture change) from this requires some assumptions based upon throttle position, measured pressure and temperature... and is not a terribly accurate answer to true pressure. They do make mixture corrections based upon this calculation, but they're not ideal - certainly better than nothing (as with fixed jets), though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
*sigh*

The days of DOS... I'm still a "younging" but had my time with it. Many people don't know what it was, how it worked, what it did, or half the time, that it even existed!

Great info on that 700. At least it gets close, better than a fixed jet for sure! Thanks for all the help and information, you're the man!
 
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