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Compression on 2006 Raptor vs 2007

6917 Views 49 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  robhutch777
Good day everyone, I'm Seb and I just bought a Raptor 700 2007. I have problem with starting the bike so I looked into the user manual and it says piston ratio is 9.2 with a 56-71 compression range. This looks pretty low for me and also looking at the specs of the 2007 raptor 700r the piston ratio is 10:1. I got 65 psi right now on my gauge and was wondering what you guys think. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm a newbie on Raptors....

Regards,

Seb.
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Does the plug look wet after cranking. Put a new plugnin anyway. Test the injector with a 9 volt battery, listen for the click. Remove and soak the whole injector in injector/carb cleaner for a few days, then spray with brake cleaner. It's important to check all timing marks, a sheered flywheel key is common, a slipped cam gear has also happened since it's a press fit. Compression, fuel, and spark are needed to make any motor run. BUT, the spark has to be at the right time.
something I forgot, yes I got a spark on a brand new plug and I have no error code, a green neutral and thats it.
After reading all of this again, I would still look at battery issue. Test it, should be around 12.5 volts I think..

Hook up to another battery, should be a constant crank not 5 turns then struggle. That's a sign of bad battery.
Keep a trickle/float charger on your battery, try jumping from your wifes car. The starter may work with full voltage. You want 12.6 - 14.2 volts.
Does it have a fuel programmer? I only ask because i have seen them fail. If it has one check it for any codes it may be throwing on the l.e.d's.

Check spark plug in dimly lit area for nice blue spark while cranking
Check spark plug for fuel after cranking
If your sure its getting a good spark, and your sure fuel is getting in, and your 10,000% positive your battery is FULLY charged, then it may have jumped time. The cam chain can stretch to that point, tensioner can fail, or as dezperado said it may have bigger problems. Those timing plugs have to come out sooner or later...

You'll have to remove the small plug by grinding a screwdriver slot in it. Turn slow and steady on both plugs as there is a "O" ring seal. Make a tool for the big plug with a bolt with a 14mm (9/16) head and two nuts. Assemble all 3 with loctite and you have a tool. Replacement plugs are available on ebay. If the timing marks don't line up, you sheered a crank key or the cam gear on the crank.
Yeah, well I will check the timing again tomorrow but I just dont get why it would not start on compression rollling it.... After having it sitting I tried to turn it with the starter and it backed fired and I check the intake boot and it was off the head... really weard stuff.

When I checked the flywheel the gear behind it was not turning at all, I think the guy tighted the flywheel way to hard because the one way gear is suppose to be turning behind the flywheel. Will the check engine/code will capture a fail flywheel or fail crank position sensors and what are the timing plugs?
Timing plugs are those 2 Allen head covers on the drivers side on the cover that you said wouldn't come off and DEZ explained how to make a tool to remove them. I have a 8" bolt that the head fits perfectly in that large one, then I bent it to a 90 degree so it looks like an "L" so I can turn mine.

Note...when you put them back on put a little oil on the o ring and do not crank them tight. You will thank yourself when you need to remove them again.
When I checked the flywheel the gear behind it was not turning at all, I think the guy tighted the flywheel way to hard because the one way gear is suppose to be turning behind the flywheel. Will the check engine/code will capture a fail flywheel or fail crank position sensors and what are the timing plugs?
The one way is supposed to turn one way. Lol, (Who would have thought, right?) If it wont turn either way then you need to get it out of there and see what the problem is. If it wont freespin with the motor running then it wont allow the motor to spin properly=does not run

Dont bump start it if this is the case. You were advised to bump start because you said it had a new one way which was i assumed worked correctly
So what would prevent the bike to get rolling started? As for the one way when I looked at it, it look fined I didnt check if the sprocket behind the one way was turning.... I just confirmed it today that it was not and its not because the one way was installed incorrectly, I think its because the flywheel was tight off spec like too tight preventing the sprocket to turn freely... now I'm waiting on a new starter and I might be fine... but just not sure if that would have prevent it to rolling start.
If its in a bind, it will not roll start because it is creating drag on the motor that keeps it from spinning fast enough to start. A new starter will not fix this if it is the issue. The flywheel slams up against the crankshaft, i doubt you could ever get it tight enough to cause 1 way problems, alot of guys just impact this nut on anyway
What you mean ''If its in a bind, it will not roll start because it is creating drag on the motor that keeps it from spinning fast enough to start''.
I know you're getting different information but your spark timing is off. This is evident by backfire and manifold blowing off. Yes, you do have spark, but at the wrong time. Do NOT try to crank or bump start as valve and piston damage can result if it hasn't already. You must pull the timing plugs and check timing marks as per your manual. Morph can help with a manual. As for your one way, yes, it turns one way, not the other. It's almost impossible to get the flywheel to tight.
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if you need a manual, send me a valid email in PM and I can send over a PDF. As stated, you need to remove those plugs one way or another and check timing...
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Alright, thanks for all the help guys after looking at everything I think the timing is the issue and it was cause by a stretch timing chain. Once I open my key today, the check engine open and blink 1 time slow followed by 2 x quick... not sure if there is a code to it as I dont have the electronic tool that reads errors code.... Oh well hopefully I get it running soon!
Hey guess what? I have that certain non electronic tool that will read those codes, even have paper version in my garage. It's error code 12, crankshaft position sensor. You are out of time for sure.

I will again offer you that tool in PDF version or you can find it in the archives in here. Sometimes it works, sometimes it don't.
Got your pm, sending that tool shortly amigo, glad you found the issue though.
Morph... not sure I found the issue lol.... I read on the error code 12 and it can be a lot of stuff do you think that I will get this error with off timing only? As I think I was off timing from the get go but never received this read on the check engine....
Have you opened those 2 timing cover bolts on the side yet to look to see where it is at timing wise?
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Yeah I looked it 2 days a go, and timed it although I was not able to time right on the arrow as I think I got a streched cam chain... I will try again tomorrow.
Got it up and running... was the timing off by 1 tooth... thanks for all your help now looking for some upgrade not sure if I should open another thread or just keep going on this one!? Thanks for all your helps guys, really appreciated, solid community so far!!
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Got it up and running... was the timing off by 1 tooth... thanks for all your help now looking for some upgrade not sure if I should open another thread or just keep going on this one!? Thanks for all your helps guys, really appreciated, solid community so far!!
Glad to hear this is resolved !!

Open another thread to keep things clean though..
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