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Discussion Starter #1
O.k. so I have been having a rough idle on start up and pretty much all the time on my rappy unless I'm into the throttle actually riding. And the idle screw doesn't do anything at all regardless of how many turns in or out it is. I have a dynatek ignition and a dynatek coil with an iridium plug. I turned my headlights on today while it was running and loan behold the damn idle smoothed out completely And suddenly the idle screw actually performs like it should.??? Turn the headlights back off and she starts stumbling again. I tried it over and over with the same result. I have aftermarket HID's installed with twin ballasts and relays. The ground for the headlights is bolted to the upper fender stay bolt near the coil. I don't think that has anything to do with it though because I moved it from the hold down bolt FOR the coil to the fender stay and it made no difference. Anybody got any ideas here I'm at a loss LOL
 

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That sounds like a crazy problem. I have no idea what would cause that.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I think I have some ideas thanks to DL700. He said this:

DL700 check the power cable from the battery to the starter relay as well DL700 check the ground cable from the motor to the battery, ground the HID's directly to the battery
its possible you have a bad positive cable connection and with the additional amperage draw from the lights the connection is somewhat bridged
also measure battery voltage at idle with lights on and off
From me: Can I use dialectric grease on the battery terminals? I'm assuming I can but havent yet. I havent checked the motor or relay connections yet. Your thinking one of those is loose or bad and with the lights being on it helps complete the circuit?
DL700 correct, may also be an issue with the rectifier... try disconnecting it... yeah u can use the di electric grease on the connection there are some common issues withthe wire harnesses on the 700, but always start with the battery.... check the bullet connector for the ground as well(short pigtail coming off the ground cable) its on the negative cable about 3 inches off the battery
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh by the way what is the battery voltage supposed to be? with light on and with them off? 12-14 volts or what?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Oh holy smokes outback I've been to that lake before. Lake of the ozarks! How much for those extended stock swingers? I have a buddy that wants one of those.
 

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Oh holy smokes outback I've been to that lake before. Lake of the ozarks! How much for those extended stock swingers? I have a buddy that wants one of those.
Yeah, it's a fun place for sure! Did you just come for a weekend? Let me know if your around again.

$300.00 shipped (basically $275.00+shipping)
 

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Hey Carp! Find that electric gremlin yet? Just wondering and also bummed my bud Carp is having problems. Oh and when in doubt CHeeze Wizz the fKER LMAO.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
LMFAO!!! Yeah bro I'm actually out here in the shop right now tearin shit apart! I found one somewhat loose connection on the relay. But it looks clean so I dunno if that's the culprit. I'm lookin for where the neg. battery cable bolts to the frame right now and I think I found it just above the sprocket but I'm not sure thats it.
 

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I have a pretty good idea I know what your problem is. Actually, I'd bet a nickel on it, lol.

In the instructions for the dynatek ignition, it claims that the red power wire for the system needs to be wired into a switched 12v source that powers on with the ignition. It also says that the taillight wire is a good location to tap into. Wrong!! Since the taillight is only on when the headlights are on, this would only power the ignition when you turn the headlights on, hence why your quad runs correctly w/the headlights on...

Solution: Find another 12v power source to tie the red ignition wire into that is actually powered on all the time with the key.

Bet that helps, and you can thank me later!! LOL

Kris
 

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i have a pretty good idea i know what your problem is. Actually, i'd bet a nickel on it, lol.

In the instructions for the dynatek ignition, it claims that the red power wire for the system needs to be wired into a switched 12v source that powers on with the ignition. It also says that the taillight wire is a good location to tap into. Wrong!! Since the taillight is only on when the headlights are on, this would only power the ignition when you turn the headlights on, hence why your quad runs correctly w/the headlights on...

Solution: Find another 12v power source to tie the red ignition wire into that is actually powered on all the time with the key.

Bet that helps, and you can thank me later!! Lol

kris
BINGO! Good eye!
 

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Cheeze wizz? ROFL
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have a pretty good idea I know what your problem is. Actually, I'd bet a nickel on it, lol.

In the instructions for the dynatek ignition, it claims that the red power wire for the system needs to be wired into a switched 12v source that powers on with the ignition. It also says that the taillight wire is a good location to tap into. Wrong!! Since the taillight is only on when the headlights are on, this would only power the ignition when you turn the headlights on, hence why your quad runs correctly w/the headlights on...

Solution: Find another 12v power source to tie the red ignition wire into that is actually powered on all the time with the key.

Bet that helps, and you can thank me later!! LOL

Kris
Oooh shit I don't remember where in the hell I wired that red one too! I'm gonna go look right now. I just got back from the parts store to get a new tube of dialectric grease. FYI don't buy the co2 can of dialectric grease. You only get about 1/4 of the can out of it before the co2 runs out LOL
 

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GOOD GOO! LOL



BAD CAN! LOL

 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have a pretty good idea I know what your problem is. Actually, I'd bet a nickel on it, lol.

In the instructions for the dynatek ignition, it claims that the red power wire for the system needs to be wired into a switched 12v source that powers on with the ignition. It also says that the taillight wire is a good location to tap into. Wrong!! Since the taillight is only on when the headlights are on, this would only power the ignition when you turn the headlights on, hence why your quad runs correctly w/the headlights on...

Solution: Find another 12v power source to tie the red ignition wire into that is actually powered on all the time with the key.

Bet that helps, and you can thank me later!! LOL
Kris
Hey man there is no red wire. There is a red/black wire that is in the harness from the dynatek to the coil intercept. But the manual states to disconnect the red/black wire (switched 12v) from the ignition coil positive, and install the DFS red/black piggyback spade connector onto the ignition coil positive, connect the raptor red/black wire onto the DFS piggyback terminal. That is the way I have it now. It doesn't say anything about wiring to the headlights. Are you talkin about the 660?
 

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Hey man there is no red wire. There is a red/black wire that is in the harness from the dynatek to the coil intercept. But the manual states to disconnect the red/black wire (switched 12v) from the ignition coil positive, and install the DFS red/black piggyback spade connector onto the ignition coil positive, connect the raptor red/black wire onto the DFS piggyback terminal. That is the way I have it now. It doesn't say anything about wiring to the headlights. Are you talkin about the 660?
Frick Fricken Frick!!! Disregard my original post on this problem!

Just went out to the shop to double check. I'm sorry Carpenter for sending you on a wild goose chase. This weekend I wired in a Dynatek Programmable ignition and also a Dynojet PC5 with Autotune on a build. The red wire I was describing tapping into a switched 12V source was for the AUTOTUNE, and not the Dynatek Ignition...

My apologies. If I think of another possible solution to your problem, I'll let ya know! In the meantime, it looks like I owe ya a nickel.

Kris
 

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Discussion Starter #17
LOL it's all good! Hey I'm trying to extend my ground wire for the HID's. It is silver or nickel wire. All I have is copper wire to splice in there is that o.k? Pretty sure it is but I wanna check first
 

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Discussion Starter #19
O.k. So I finished with all of the connections on the grounding system as DL suggested.. It seems to idle much better but still fluctuates and misses slightly. Here are the readings from the volt meter.
off 12.7
turn key on 12.4
during starting 11.3
idling 13.8
idling with lights on and bulbs cold 12.9 at lowest
idling with lights on and bulbs warm 30 sec. later 13.2


Any ideas here?Or does this look normal to you?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
My buddy has a theory that under amp draw the idle goes up to 2300 and smooths out. Could the additional draw in amperage be raising the idle speed and overcoming the fluctuations?
 
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