Or maybe it was leaking coolant before for the the prior owner. Then the prior added an additional head gasket to seal it enough to sell it to PrehistoricPredator.
I need to move a dowel they have two in between the valve cover and head. I want to move one to the cylinder and head. Per the manual shows. How do I remove one? I’m guessing this will help keep the head gasket in place
Are you looking to remove the dowel? If so, find a drill bit that fits the inner diameter of the dowels snuggly. Then take a pliers and carefully remove it. The drill bit makes it so you don't crush the dowel. Make sure you use the smooth end that goes into the drill chuck, not the drill bit itself if that makes sense.
Major oof, not a good idea at all to run the niche. You'll end up spending significantly more in the long run, with an uncomfortable chance of a catastrophic failure causing significant lower end damage. Then you'll be spending thousands rebuilding the top and bottom end, trying to find case halves etc. We'd all hate to see all the work you're putting in go to waste because you didn't want to spend a couple hundred on a proper OEM cylinder.
Question. I have bolts E2 and D2 115&10mm that go down and just spin. They do go in but only so far. I guess new bolts are an order. Are they a particular type? Or can I go over to autozone and get a 115 and 130mm ?
This is the same corner the gasket gave out. I’m guessing this was the culprit.
Question. I have bolts E2 and D2 115&10mm that go down and just spin. They do go in but only so far. I guess new bolts are an order. Are they a particular type? Or can I go over to autozone and get a 115 and 130mm ? View attachment 144511
This is the same corner the gasket gave out. I’m guessing this was the culprit.
It's not the bolts, it's the threaded holes.
The bolts are steel, the threaded holes are alumimum...and easily stripped out, which is the problem.
This is why a torque wrench is so important, to prevent over tightening fasteners and damaging threads.
You need a new cylinder head And matching cover anyway, since that one is broken.
What size of head gasket do you guys use or recommend ? Cometic has so many different thicknesses. I will be swapping the niche cylinder out for the OEM soon
I would use a CP over a Wiesco.
Also just use the stock diameter.
10.1 compression is stock.
11.1 is the highest you can go and still use pump gas/93 octane, any higher compression will require higher octane.
However, it is debatable to even run 11.1 on a stock 660 connecting rod, as they have been known to fail at higher compression, and the risk is higher on an older engine with unknown hours.
An hour meter is also cheap and easy to install, and a good idea for your own info, as well as future resale, since you are rebuilding the top end.
Aftermarket head pipes aren't going to make a big difference, especially on a stock or near stock engine, as most of the restriction is in the stock muffler.
If I was going to replace them, I'de look for stainless steel or aluminim, just for a cleaner look without rust.
I would use a heat sheild too, as you will Definately feel the difference if you remove it.
There are many generic heat shields on ebay that go on with included hose-clamps.
So once I drop the oil and the coolant, refill everything Do I need to try to start it without the spark plug plugged in to let everything circulate for a couple times
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Raptor Forum
1.3M posts
73K members
Since 2005
A forum community dedicated to Yamaha Raptor owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, news, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!