Raptor Forum banner
1 - 18 of 68 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
4,247 Posts
Question. I have bolts E2 and D2 115&10mm that go down and just spin. They do go in but only so far. I guess new bolts are an order. Are they a particular type? Or can I go over to autozone and get a 115 and 130mm ?
View attachment 144511
This is the same corner the gasket gave out. I’m guessing this was the culprit.
It's not the bolts, it's the threaded holes.
The bolts are steel, the threaded holes are alumimum...and easily stripped out, which is the problem.
This is why a torque wrench is so important, to prevent over tightening fasteners and damaging threads.
You need a new cylinder head And matching cover anyway, since that one is broken.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,247 Posts
Also, if I wanted to go with a Wiseco pistons what size would I go with and will it fit in the OEM setup?
I would use a CP over a Wiesco.
Also just use the stock diameter.
10.1 compression is stock.
11.1 is the highest you can go and still use pump gas/93 octane, any higher compression will require higher octane.
However, it is debatable to even run 11.1 on a stock 660 connecting rod, as they have been known to fail at higher compression, and the risk is higher on an older engine with unknown hours.
An hour meter is also cheap and easy to install, and a good idea for your own info, as well as future resale, since you are rebuilding the top end.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,247 Posts
What’s a good pipe system? I want to keep my big gun muffler
Aftermarket head pipes aren't going to make a big difference, especially on a stock or near stock engine, as most of the restriction is in the stock muffler.
If I was going to replace them, I'de look for stainless steel or aluminim, just for a cleaner look without rust.
I would use a heat sheild too, as you will Definately feel the difference if you remove it.
There are many generic heat shields on ebay that go on with included hose-clamps.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,247 Posts
So I would just crack this while I turn it over and make sure oil is circulating? It’s a first time for everything
View attachment 144546
Oil is going to come out of the through hole in that bolt even if the bolt is tight, as long as that hard line is disconnected.
Or else out of the end of the line, I don't remember which way it flows.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,247 Posts
Lol that looks like a fun project
Not really, fix one thing, and something else goes wrong.
Fortunately it's mainly cleaning everything...Everything, as it sat outside not running for a long time.
Hopefully I'll be done with it soon and back to real projects, as this is basically a weedeater with wheels, lol.
And if that one isn't good enough...check out this one.
The gas tank was rusted out, so after fixing lots of things on it, I put this super custom tank(riding mower) on it to get it running,
lmao

Tire Fuel tank Wheel Automotive fuel system Automotive lighting
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,247 Posts
If I went with 3 can I run stock springs or do I need HD springs
From memory you need springs as well.
I think someone here clarified that recently too.
But, personally, I think it's worth it, as I'de rather have mid to high rpm power, vs power fall off up top.
A spring compressor is cheap too.
Build this thing once, and enjoy it for a long time, even if it takes you a little longer to finish it.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,247 Posts
Are connecting rods expensive. I like the hunt just as much as the kill! I like the nostalgia of the 01 to much. Plus, this is giving me a huge learning opportunity.
You'll need a crank and rod assembly, which is around $400-$600(I havn't priced them in a long time).
Otherwise you would need a custom fixture to make sure the crank halves pressed back together in 100% the correct position.
 
1 - 18 of 68 Posts
Top