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2001 Raptor 660r
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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Question. I have bolts E2 and D2 115&10mm that go down and just spin. They do go in but only so far. I guess new bolts are an order. Are they a particular type? Or can I go over to autozone and get a 115 and 130mm ?
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This is the same corner the gasket gave out. I’m guessing this was the culprit.
 

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Question. I have bolts E2 and D2 115&10mm that go down and just spin. They do go in but only so far. I guess new bolts are an order. Are they a particular type? Or can I go over to autozone and get a 115 and 130mm ?
View attachment 144511
This is the same corner the gasket gave out. I’m guessing this was the culprit.
It's not the bolts, it's the threaded holes.
The bolts are steel, the threaded holes are alumimum...and easily stripped out, which is the problem.
This is why a torque wrench is so important, to prevent over tightening fasteners and damaging threads.
You need a new cylinder head And matching cover anyway, since that one is broken.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
It's not the bolts, it's the threaded holes.
The bolts are steel, the threaded holes are alumimum...and easily stripped out, which is the problem.
This is why a torque wrench is so important, to prevent over tightening fasteners and damaging threads.
You need a new cylinder head And matching cover anyway, since that one is broken.
What size are the bolts? I know the length but not the circumference
 

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Also, if I wanted to go with a Wiseco pistons what size would I go with and will it fit in the OEM setup?
I would use a CP over a Wiesco.
Also just use the stock diameter.
10.1 compression is stock.
11.1 is the highest you can go and still use pump gas/93 octane, any higher compression will require higher octane.
However, it is debatable to even run 11.1 on a stock 660 connecting rod, as they have been known to fail at higher compression, and the risk is higher on an older engine with unknown hours.
An hour meter is also cheap and easy to install, and a good idea for your own info, as well as future resale, since you are rebuilding the top end.
 

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What’s a good pipe system? I want to keep my big gun muffler
Aftermarket head pipes aren't going to make a big difference, especially on a stock or near stock engine, as most of the restriction is in the stock muffler.
If I was going to replace them, I'de look for stainless steel or aluminim, just for a cleaner look without rust.
I would use a heat sheild too, as you will Definately feel the difference if you remove it.
There are many generic heat shields on ebay that go on with included hose-clamps.
 

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2001 Raptor 660r
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Aftermarket head pipes aren't going to make a big difference, especially on a stock or near stock engine, as most of the restriction is in the stock muffler.
If I was going to replace them, I'de look for stainless steel or aluminim, just for a cleaner look without rust.
I would use a heat sheild too, as you will Definately feel the difference if you remove it.
There are many generic heat shields on ebay that go on with included hose-clamps.
I have the big three right now. Next will be hot cam. Would you go hot cam two or three?
 

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2001 Raptor 660r
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254 Posts
Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I would use a CP over a Wiesco.
Also just use the stock diameter.
10.1 compression is stock.
11.1 is the highest you can go and still use pump gas/93 octane, any higher compression will require higher octane.
However, it is debatable to even run 11.1 on a stock 660 connecting rod, as they have been known to fail at higher compression, and the risk is higher on an older engine with unknown hours.
An hour meter is also cheap and easy to install, and a good idea for your own info, as well as future resale, since you are rebuilding the top end.
What is CP?
 
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