[ruffnready]

I just picked up a few things for my 01 660 Rappy. K&N filter and cut a 4"x5" hole in the lid, full stainless DG exhaust and dyno stage 2 jet kit with clip on middle notch on pin.
The exhaust manufacturer papers say to use 150/155 mains. The stage 2 kit says to use 146/148 for under 3000ft elevation. I'm at 100ft elevation. When I picked up the jet kit the dealership said that just about everyone here in FL uses 150/155 mains.
My problem is that this thing is idling SUPER high! Choke is completely off and messed with the idle adjustment and doesn't bring the idle back down. I have the mixture screws 2 3/4 turns out. Should I try the 146/148 mains? I'm using stock pilots, do I have to change those out as well?

Thanks in advance!

Ryan

 

[ruffnready]

Just switched to the 146/148 mains and put the mixture screw 3 turns out and it's still idling super high..

 

[ruffnready]

I was tinkering around and found out that some how my throttle cable WAS binded up some how. Do you guys think that I should go back to the 150/155 mains or stay at 146/148? I ask because when I ride I have to trailer it 45mins away, can't just roll out the back yard. Also you think that I should bump up to 25 pilots?

 

[Banshee2Raptor]

Install the # 25 pilots. Any time you tamper with the air flow you need to compensate.

 

[ruffnready]

Install the # 25 pilots. Any time you tamper with the air flow you need to compensate.

Cool thanks! That's what I figured, I read a good portion of the carbs 101 thread and that's what everyone was doing after they did an intake mod. It's a lil late tonight to run the rappy around the yard but tomorrow I'll spin her around a couple of times to see if I can get a lil feel for the 150/155 mains. It's the weekend so Dyno tune probably won't get back to me until tomorrow.

 

[03LimitedEditionRaptor]

You need #25 pilots. Use the dynojet 146/148 mains.

Your trying to compaire two different styles of main jets. A dyno jet 148 is in the neighborhood of a mikuni 165. Mikuni and dynojet use two different numbering systems so they cannot be directly compaired.

The 150/155 that dg recomends is mikuni main jets.

most full pipes and modded airbox require around a 160/165 mikuni mains and #25 pilot jets.

 

[willykiller]

You need #25 pilots. Use the dynojet 146/148 mains.

Your trying to compaire two different styles of main jets. A dyno jet 148 is in the neighborhood of a mikuni 165. Mikuni and dynojet use two different numbering systems so they cannot be directly compaired.

The 150/155 that dg recomends is mikuni main jets.

most full pipes and modded airbox require around a 160/165 mikuni mains and #25 pilot jets.

Right on.............

 

[ruffnready]

Thanks guys! I will pick up the 25 pilots tomorrow. Last night I did put the 150/155 mikuni main jets back in. I took her for a spin around the yard today and did notice a lil bit of spuddering thou but I'll figure that out after I get the pilots in.
I'm working on powdercoating my rims so I have these flat track rims and tires on it right now. I noticed a huge difference with this stage 2 kit, front end is pulling up with the flat track tires I couldn't believe it!!

 

[03LimitedEditionRaptor]

Like I said the 146/148 is actually richer jetting than the mikuni 150/155 and with a modded air box you need more fuel than what the pipe manufacture specifies. There jetting suggestion is based off a stock air box.

More Air = More Fuel

 

[ruffnready]

Like I said the 146/148 is actually richer jetting than the mikuni 150/155 and with a modded air box you need more fuel than what the pipe manufacture specifies. There jetting suggestion is based off a stock air box.

More Air = More Fuel

I'll throw in the 25 pilots and go from there. The paper work that came with the exhaust said to use the 150/155 mains and to cut the 4"x5" hole in the air box lid.
If the pilots don't seem to do the trick then I'll try putting the DJ 146/148 back in.

 

[willykiller]

I'll throw in the 25 pilots and go from there. The paper work that came with the exhaust said to use the 150/155 mains and to cut the 4"x5" hole in the air box lid.
If the pilots don't seem to do the trick then I'll try putting the DJ 146/148 back in.

You would think that they would know what they were talking about...........

 

[ruffnready]

Alright guys, got the #25 pilots in. Got a/f screw 3 turns out and also tried 2.5 turns and 3.5. It's popping and back firing when I give it gas but does idle correctly... Gunna search just thought I'd post to see if anyone might be able to answer me before I find out.

Thanks!

Ryan

 

[willykiller]

Alright guys, got the #25 pilots in. Got a/f screw 3 turns out and also tried 2.5 turns and 3.5. It's popping and back firing when I give it gas but does idle correctly... Gunna search just thought I'd post to see if anyone might be able to answer me before I find out.

Thanks!

Ryan

You are sure the park brake is off and that the parkbrake rev limiter isnt engaged..........

 

[QuadManiac]

Read sticky at top of General 660 section: "Most COmmon Problems with Raptor 660". Pay attention to the RPM limiters section.

 

[ruffnready]

I unhooked the P-brake at the rear til my PB 700 handle gets here, but yea that isn't engaged.
I've moved the clip on the needle up and down and it's still popping. I've taken the mixture screw out even out a few turns past 3.
I've slowly pressed on the throttle, it pops all the way thru to 1/4 and stalls.

I haven't been able to ride for a month and I really want to get this running right tonight so I can ride tomorrow.
The dealer told me these pilots would b in yesterday or today. Called dealer before hand and said "come get em". Turns out they weren't there and I got a 4 hour run around so took a ton of time away from me for working on this!!
I also picked up some #27 pilots just for the heck of it.
This ran better with the 22.5 pilots in with a spudder so if all else fails I'll put those back in so I can at least ride tomorrow.

If someone that has experience with this could give me a quick call at the house that would be great!!

813-962-7134

Ryan

 

[ruffnready]

I just want to add before it comes up. The carbs are clean... cleaned with carb cleaner, speaker wire and blew out everything with 155psi compressor.
I have fuel mixture screws so with a pair of pliers they aren't that hard to adjust.
I mean what else is there? I've moved the needle clip up and down while try the fuel screw up and down with each clip setting.

I'm guess that this problem will only get worse if I try those #27 out..

Just picked up those fuel screws but everyone was saying to go with the #25 pilots out so never fully played around with every little adjustment on the fuel screw

 

[ruffnready]

Okay, so when I unhooked the pb cable in the back it re-leaved tension on the handle up front a little and set everything off. So hopefully it won't take that long to get the af screw set tomorrow. Kinda excited to ride, it's been a month and haven't rode with new mods- full exhaust, dyno stage 2 jet kit, K&N air filter, HD holeshots, and Douglas beadlock wheels... Just installed the reverse re locator and got some nerfs in route

 

[QuadManiac]

I unhooked the P-brake at the rear til my PB 700 handle gets here, but yea that isn't engaged.
n

It has NOTHING to do with the parking brake, per say - it's the parking brake SWITCH - unplug it!

 

[QuadManiac]

All I can tell you is to put in 160L/165R or 165L/170R MIKUNI mains (NOT DG, you're earlier posts have been mixing Mikuni and DG sizes, which are different), 25 pilots, DG, Vitos or GYTR needles with clips 3 notches from the bottom, fuel screws about 3 turns out... Make sure all carb passages have been cleaned spotlessly, the choke plunger is clean and working, and the float levels are at least close to correct.

Then carefully read and follow the instructions ( in the sticky I referenced above ) for removing the parking brake RPM limiter and the reverse RPM limiter.

If this still gives you serious problems, there are other issues going on.