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I may be way off here but you say it runs fine for 10 minutes and then starts. When was the last time you checked your valves. my raptor had similar issues and come to find out the exhaust valves had zero clearance. Not sure if this has any correlation but just an idea. I adjusted the valves and it ran perfect.
 

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If your running 148/165 that's way too much of a difference, you should only be at 1 size difference. Since you say it's bogging at low rpm it's probably your left carb. Anyways, did you ever clean your carb? i know it may sound stupid, but people forget the simpliest things. Secondly, look at your spark plug...is it new? or have you had it for awhile. While your jetting your quade, get a new sparkplug, run it for a little bit and check your plug. that' will tell you if your running lean or rich or just right. ***rather be rich then lean***. Secondly, check the resistance to your spark plug wire, make sure it's within specs. Check your coil and see if it's firing correctly, Do you still have your parking break installed? becuase if you do, disable it and see if that helps out any. It might also be your cdi box. Might be putting on an rev limiter when it's not supposed to. See if you can borrow someones and check it out. Also check your stator. I've heard of wierd tihngs happening when the stator goes out. Check your valve lash. Make sure that's in specs as well. Check these and see if that works out for ya
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I have to change my plug often cause how it is now they look burnt and black. Does this mean my jets are too high or too low?
 

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Black deposits - too rich - too much fuel, jets too big.
White deposits - too lean, too hot - too little fuel, jets too small.

Pretty tan color - everything is hunky-dory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Thanks Mike, thats what I thought. I just find it wierd that I will be jetted so much below what they say my bike should be but I guess every bike is different. I am just gonna keep working on it myself and see where I can get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
So I have a place to start, will someone suggest a setup?

Right now I have dynojets 148/146 , needle clip 4, stock pilots, fuel screw 4 turns. It bogs at full/mid throttle at mid/lower rpms. Idles fine, full speed full rpm's fine.

No airbox lid, k&n replacement filter, about 7 1" holes in box, dr d slip on pipe. Elevation 1300 above and temp about 85 degrees.

This is whats happening to my spark plugs with my current setup....






So if anyone can give my an idea of where to go from here so I can get this dang thing tunes, that be great! Thanks guys

-Eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Spaz_22 said:
you should be running 146 on your left, and 148 on your right, not the other way around.....one is for idle and just off idle, and the other carb is for full throttle
Sorry, I am running the larger on the right. I just typed it wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
To be honest with you, I dont know how to check my valves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I got both your guy's pm's and thank you so much. I am bound and determined to get this thing cause once I start a project I wont stop till I finish it. I have family in town for the next week so I wont be able to start it for a week or so but I will let you kguys know how its going. Thanks again everyone for their help.


-Eric
 

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Well it was bogging bad in mid rpm's, the shop jetted it and now its bogging bad in low/mid rpm's. The wierd thting is that it runs perfect for about 10 minutes then once it heats up it starts to bog and the shops told me they cant figure out whats wrong.


Any other ideas aside from jetting that would make it do that? The reason I thinks its jetting is because it was bogging in the mid, now after jetting it bogs bad in low and a little in mid too. Any suggestions?
Natural safety switch or reverse safety switch. Mine idles great and quarter throttle fine but mid to top pop pop pop out the exhaust took the cdi out and cut the two wires associated with these switches left one cut touching nothing and grounded the other to the negative and runs like q scalded dog now lol. No issues now just overheats when running it extremely hard but just have to get bigger radiator factory not big enough for reL abuse and that is why I have mine have a bad day go jump on and start ripping everything it touches up.
 

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Welcome to the forum, Jeff.

1) your assumption is probably wrong - the OP's issue comes on with heat. The reverse and parking brake RPM limiter issues you describe are not heat related, and they occur just above idle for the PB and a bit higher RPM for the reverse... he describes running in higher RPM - won't happen with RPM limiter issues.

2) this thread is almost TWENTY YEARS old... I don't think you'll get a response from the OP's.

That said, thanks for jumping in to comment. Please keep it up, especially if you don't mind being corrected once in a while!
 
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