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Discussion Starter #1
First off, THANK YOU guys for all your help. I have only had this Raptor for about a month & you all have been great. Here is the story. For some reason, when I turn the key on & move the switch from off to run, my radiator fan has always comes on. I have never worried about it. Recently I noticed the fan didnt come on when I slid the switch & it would crank but not start. I assume it has no spark when it does this. I have figured out that if I mess with the wires at the starter solenoid & computer box by the battery that the fan comes back on & it will then fire right up. I have checked the battery cables, the 3 wires at the solenoid & everything seems fine. I replaced the solenoid & replaced the ends on all 3 wires going to the solenoid. Its like I remove the seat & just barley touch anything & it starts working perfect. Can anyone tell me what wire or connector would power the fan & make the quad start when it has a good conection?
 

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is the fan hardwired in bypassing the thermal switch?
mine is wired through a switch mounted on the left fender.. but i have to turn it on (parrallel with the thermo switch so both will work)
but the fan shouldnt come on till the coolant hits 210 degrees i believe.
id say maybe the power wire to the coil is loose, but if that was it, once you got it started, it should cut back out since itd loose its power supply. just go over everything and make sure nothing is rubbed down to the bare wire and that nothing is lose...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Im not sure how the fan is wired. I assume that the previous owner had a issue with the thermal switch or something & bypassed it to make the fan always run. I plan to dig into some more this weekend. It just seems odd to me that when it does this, the fan does not run & it want start. I can jump across the solenoid & it will always crank, just wont start. I guess its possible that someone hooked the fan up to the coil wire & this is why when the fan starts running, then it will start? You wiggle the wires under the seat a little, the fan starts running & it starts right up.
 

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Master of the Electron
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You need to find which wire is broken, shorting to frame or which connector pin is loose. Since wiggling the wires under the seat cause this, I'd look carefully at each wire in the vicinity for chafing, breaks, etc. Then I'd look at the CDI connectors - remove the CDI and, by pulling on each wire in the connector, determine if one or more pins have come loose from the connector body.

It is obvious that this is your problem, and it is common for wires around the battery box to get damaged, so, with a little persistance you should be able to find the culprit.

If you know how to use a multi-meter and can follow the wiring diagram, you can start measuring signals and zero in that way - else, its going to require a careful inspection.

It is also obvious that the previous owner re-wired the fan to run directly from switched 12V.

Shorting across the solenoid will always cause the starter to turn, it connects it directly to the battery. The important thing here is that the CDI gets 12V via the red/black wire. Without this, no cranking from the start button and no spark. Check the red/black wire near the CDI to see if it has 12V when the key switch is on and the run/stop is on.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, turns out that it was the fuse in the brand new starter solenoid. Crazy thing is, it did this with both the new & old solenoid. When I wiggle the fuse, it would spark & cycle everything off & on. The fuse was not blown but it was a very cheap & crappy fuse that fit very loose. I replaced it with another fuse & it fit very tight & cured the issue. Thanks guys for the help! Now to figure out why the previos owner has the fan wired to always be on. I'm guessing that one of the thermal swithces is bad....
 

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Master of the Electron
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This is contrary to your original symptoms: "Recently I noticed the fan didnt come on when I slid the switch & it would crank but not start."

If the loose fuse is the cause, the engine would not crank (from the start button) either. I'm going to guess that what you omitted was that it would crank only when you shorted across the solenoid's large lugs, not via the start button?

RE the fan, either the P/O hard wired it (for some unknown reason) or the temperature switch has failed in a closed position. Many 660 owners are concerned that they never hear their fans come on (as many other bike's fans come on regularly) and so assume something is wrong; and they hardwire them as a stop gap against their concerns... the truth is just that the Rappy's cooling system is so efficient that the fan is just not normally necessary and so it doesn't come on.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank You quadmaniac. Thats what I ment was when it did this it would not crank & the fan wouldnt run. When you jumped across the solenoid, it would crank over but not start. Sorry about that, I should have been more clear.

On the fan, the only thing that I have noticed that is not original wireing is that the previous owner has hooked a small wire to the thermal switch at the bottom of the radiator & it is run up to the temp light. No wires have been cut, this wire is just tied in. My plan was to remove this extra wire & either test or replace both thermal switches & try that. Your idea is very good, my brother has a 05 & I dont think I have ever heared the fan run. Thank You!

Now if I can figure out my first to second gear shift issue that I posted about, I will just about have all these little issues worked out. Replacement shifter will be here today........I got my fingers crossed that this fixes my shift issue!
 

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Master of the Electron
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Hmmm, strange. The temp light is supposed to be connected to the upper temp switch at the thermostat housing. By all means, remove the new wire and figure out what is happening from there. My guess, is that the wire he ran comes from the +12 side of the light (brown wire, always hot when run/stop is on) and just bypasses the radiator temp switch - supplying 12V to fan at all times. Removing it should return fan control to the temp switch (assuming the fan breaker and temp switch are working).

Unplug the radiator temp switch connnector and short across the two connector leads (in the wired connector) - the fan should come on. This tells you the breaker is good. Plug the connector back in.

Then, cover the radiator with a sheet of printer paper and idle the bike. After about 10 minutes at idle, the fan should come on, and about 1 minute later go off again - the temp switch is working. If fan doesn't come on at all, then the temp switch is suspect - unless it's really cold outside.

Good luck with the shifter.
 
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