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Discussion Starter #1
My problem is that the Raptor acts as tho there is no battery connected to it. I know my battery is ok, I even swaped another one and didnt matter. Tried jumping it from my truck, same thing, nothing. Only way to start it is to pull start. I have taken the rear fenders off to try and locate a bare wire or something, everything looks good. Checked the 2 fuses that are located by the battery and they look ok. Any suggestions ? Thanks.
 

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Master of the Electron
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WHat are the symptoms - how does it act 'as if there is no battery'? Describe what you do, what DOES work (i.e., what lights, etc.,) and what DOESN'T work (nothing happens when start button is pressed, etc.)

Once you pull start, does anything that wasn't working now work properly?

Check everything that deals with electrical - neutral light, reverse light, temp light coming on when pressing start button, headlights and tail lights, etc., and report to us what is and what isn't working.

From that point we can formulate a plan to determine the cause.

I'm going to guess that everything works - all lights, etc... but the starter doesn't turn when you press the start button. Is this correct?
 

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I am unique
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More imformation please, as Quad suggests, we cant help you unless you give us imformation to work with............
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, when the key is turned on there is no neutral light even tho it is in neutral. There is no lights if they are turned on. Upon pressing the start button nothing happens, no clicking or anything. Thats why I said it acts as tho there is no battery hooked up. I even swapped batteries with another quad and it does the same thing so I dont think the battery is the culpret. After pull starting the neutral light will work, and the head & tail light work properly ( while motor is running). Turn the engine off and everything is dead again.
 

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Master of the Electron
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Okay,thanks for the details... so battery voltage is not reaching the key switch, but the switch (and all others) are working properly... so far.

1) short across the two large lugs on the starter solenoid with a screwdriver, pair of pliers, etc. (expect sparks). Does the starter turn now (i'm going to bet not)? If it does turn when shorting, then the fuse is bad, the fuse contacts are loose or the solenoid is bad... or the red wire between solenoid and key switch is interrupted somewhere.

2) If you have a voltmeter and know how to use it, check for 12V at the red wire on the starter solenoid. I'm going to bet it isn't there (if it is there, also check while pressing start button). If 12V IS on the red wire, the wire is broken or interrupted somewhere between the solenoid and the key switch - check at the red wire at the key switch too, it won't be there.

3) assuming 12V isn't at the red wire, check for 12V on the lug at the solenoid coming from the battery. If it is there, but not on the red wire, either the fuse is blown (there's only one used, the other is a spare), the fuse connector is not making contact with the fuse, or the solenoid is bad. However, if 12V isn't here, then either the battery is bad, the connection at the battery is dirty/corroded/loose or the cable between battery and solenoid is corroded internally from battery acid (common).

Check these and let us know what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the quick reply filled with great info. I will try to do the tests you mentioned tomorrow, and let you know what I find.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Im guessing the starter selenoid and starter relay are the same thing ( I have a clymer manual and cant find starter selenoid anywhere in it ). Anyway testing from battery neg to red wire on starter relay is 0. Testing from battery pos to to black wire on starter relay is 12V. I am a little confused with #3 in your test procedures. Does what I just described mean that the ground wire from the battery could be bad ? Last time we rode it we had to "bend the black wire by the battery" to get the starter to work. Sorry I didnt mention this at first, I forgot. Thanks
 

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Master of the Electron
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Ignore color for the moment.. theres a wire from the battery to the relay (there is only one). What do you measure at this wire (large gauge cable) at the relay relative to battery ground?

The red wire I have been describing is in a 4 pin connector at the top of the relay. WHat does it measure relative to battery ground?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Testing from the neg on battery to the relay where the pos from battery goes it is 0. I also tested the red wire that is in the 4 pin configuration you described
( between the fuses ) relative to ground it is also 0.
 

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Master of the Electron
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Okay, and battery measures 12V? THen the short cable between battery and relay is either loose, corroded or the copper is broken internally. Try turning key on and wiggling cable around - neutral light flicker?

Take a jumper cable and clamp it to battery + and the lug on the relay that the battery cable connects to - all should work now, replace the cable (assuming you HAVE removed and cleaned all of the mating surfaces of battery and cable lug with a wire brush, and still no go).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Did your suggestion with the jumper cables and found the problem. The short red battery cable is broken in 1/2 right by the connection ( couldnt tell because it is covered by the red plastic ). Thanks for all the help !! Now on to replacing the one way starter clutch on my sons 660 Raptor......
 

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Did your suggestion with the jumper cables and found the problem. The short red battery cable is broken in 1/2 right by the connection ( couldnt tell because it is covered by the red plastic ). Thanks for all the help !! Now on to replacing the one way starter clutch on my sons 660 Raptor......
I've seen that before...........
 

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Master of the Electron
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Yup, rather common... battery acid wicks up into the copper and makes it brittle, then vibration causes it to break.
 
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