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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi, im new to the site and raptor 700s. Iv owned two banshees and a cr500 so im no rookie at turning wrenches and riding. I just cant figure out whats wrong with it. Was running fine until i sprayed it off with water. Now its cutting off when i pull off slow in first or gearing down to first. The bike idles fine but does seem idled high at rev. When i let off the throttle it backfires but goes back to idling smooth. The bike is stock head to toe. Here is what iv done so far

Checked TPS with meter. Reading .67 - .68
I placed the negative on the battery and the positive on the yellow wire. Located on the back of the harness that connects to the TPS.

Checked battery voltage. Reading 12.6v

Battery terminals are tight.

Fuel pump is priming

Replaced plug with ngk cr8e plug.

Checked how hot the motor was getting. Its around 243 degrees with no sign of fan turning on.

I am still riding the gas it came with. Guy said it was good. Should i dump and refresh?
Could it be time for a valve adjustment?
Maybe it needs jetting?
Could the gas cap be bad?

Any help would be appreciated. Im backed in a corner on this one.
 

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If it was running fine till you hosed it I would say you have water in a connector somewhere. I would start with your on/off switch on your bars, pull it apart and hit it with contact cleaner (or air if you have no contact cleaner). Then depending on where you were spraying water, start pulling connectors loose and spraying them out. Ideally if you do this, you can help prevent this in the future by spraying connectors with contact cleaner then applying dielectric grease on the connector when you put it back together. Good luck
 

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Welcome to the forum, Gil had some good pointers but I will add this.

-dump whatever gas he had, put in fresh pump, highest available from pump
-adjust valves, you have no history, PM me for a service manual
-no jetting involved on a 700, these are fuel injected
-check the one way valve on the cap
-243 seems a bit hot with no fan, I think they kick on around 220. How are you figuring the current temp?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If it was running fine till you hosed it I would say you have water in a connector somewhere. I would start with your on/off switch on your bars, pull it apart and hit it with contact cleaner (or air if you have no contact cleaner). Then depending on where you were spraying water, start pulling connectors loose and spraying them out. Ideally if you do this, you can help prevent this in the future by spraying connectors with contact cleaner then applying dielectric grease on the connector when you put it back together. Good luck
Thanks for your response. The on/off switch seems to be working fine. I slide the switch to run/ then turn key/ fuel pump primes/cranks just fine and idles. I will blow out connectors tomorrow with contact cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Welcome to the forum, Gil had some good pointers but I will add this.

-dump whatever gas he had, put in fresh pump, highest available from pump
-adjust valves, you have no history, PM me for a service manual
-no jetting involved on a 700, these are fuel injected
-check the one way valve on the cap
-243 seems a bit hot with no fan, I think they kick on around 220. How are you figuring the current temp?
Thanks for responding. I will dump gas in the morning. Can i siphon the gas out or should i remove tank?

I will have to order tools to adjust valves. Whats needed and where cn i get them local or online? I may have the tool that you slide under the valve spring. Im guessing the valves get tighter as they wear. Whats a proper gap for the valves?

One way valve on the cap is behind the cap with two screws right?

I thought 243 was hot for the fan not to come on. Maybe a bad fan. Ill test tomorrow.

I still have my temp meter from when i had nitro rc cars and trucks. Seems to work fine. I can find another way to test. To confirm a accurate reading.
 

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If you have a '06 - '08 it may be a wet TPS sensor. Run a hair dryer on it for about 1/2 hour to dry it out. Keep water away from it.

Did water get past the gas cap into the tank?

Test the gas cap by blowing in the hose, but can't suck out.

Battery voltage at 12.5 is considered 50% discharged. Be sure voltage increases when running. Trickle/float charge a few days to 13.6 - 14.2 volts.

WELCOME TO THE FORUM.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you have a '06 - '08 it may be a wet TPS sensor. Run a hair dryer on it for about 1/2 hour to dry it out. Keep water away from it.

Did water get past the gas cap into the tank?

Test the gas cap by blowing in the hose, but can't suck out.

Battery voltage at 12.5 is considered 50% discharged. Be sure voltage increases when running. Trickle/float charge a few days to 13.6 - 14.2 volts.

WELCOME TO THE FORUM.

Thanks Dez.

Should i test the TPS with ignition on? I will blow dry it off but has been sitting in my hot garage two days since i rinsed it so hopefully that helped. Ill never wash this quad again, only bird baths from here on out lol. Can i hot glue over the whole TPS to waterproof it?

I doubt water got pass the cap. I only rinsed the motor, swing arm and tires.

Will test cap soon.

Your right the battery voltage should be higher. Ill just buy another one today. Do you guys keep your battery on a trickle charger 24/7 when not riding or just disconnect the cables?

Temps are getting up to around 243 degrees and the fan wont come on. Looks like it had better days
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update.

I checked the gas cap. Its good.
I got the battery at oreilys getting charged. Ill see if it makes a difference.
I checked the TPS again and couldnt get a reading this time (weird). I got a reading the first time. Does this mean its bad? Think ill check a third time when i get home.
 

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Run a hair dryer on your TPS.

A good automatic trickle charger will float between 13.6 and 14.2 volts and can be left on . A cheap charger may overcharge if left on for more then a few days. If so, you can use a in-line timer, with the charger, set for 1 hour or so per day.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update

Battery checked out good. I tested the TPS again and it was off a little. Meter reading was 0.65 so i upped it to 0.69 with in spec. I noticed it sounded a lot better idling. I gave it some throttle and no backfire until it warmed up. The bike seems to be getting hot fast so i shut it off. I think its running lean. Not sure if the backfire is coming out the pipe or filter. Fan still not working. Guess ill check the fan relay before i buy a fan.

What should i do when rappy 700 runs lean?

Starting to feel like 2 grand was to much for this raptor.
 

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How is that air filter looking?

I would invest in a fuel controller to see if that helps. $2000 isn't a bad price at all for these, have seen some pretty abused ones going for double that.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
How is that air filter looking?

I would invest in a fuel controller to see if that helps. $2000 isn't a bad price at all for these, have seen some pretty abused ones going for double that.


The air filter has seen better days. Ordered two and both was wrong. I am just finding out the old one has k&n on the top but looks sketchy like its bootleg.

A controller sounds expensive. Is that the only way to fix a lean raptor?

Glad thats not a bad price. Before you say that it had bent a arms, seat had a huge hole in it, no handle bar grips and some rust here and there. Attempted to call the seller.....ill just deal with it plus im learning a lot this way. I got it looking a lot better $400 later lol
 

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A TPS with moisture in it will give unreliable readings and cause unreliable operation.

What are the symptoms of running hot? Bubbles in the overflow tank?? Look in the top of the radiator for turbulence and/or bubbles. Pull the thermostat and test it in a pan with boiling water. Give the fan blades a turn to see if free. Jump with a 12 volt jumper to see if it works.

A fuel controller should always be the first mod, before your K&N or aftermarket exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
A TPS with moisture in it will give unreliable readings and cause unreliable operation.

What are the symptoms of running hot? Bubbles in the overflow tank?? Look in the top of the radiator for turbulence and/or bubbles. Pull the thermostat and test it in a pan with boiling water. Give the fan blades a turn to see if free. Jump with a 12 volt jumper to see if it works.

A fuel controller should always be the first mod, before your K&N or aftermarket exhaust.

I did notice when i was testing the TPS that the numbers on the meter would take a while to go back down with deceleration but no dead spots. Does this mean its bad?

Can the fuel controller fix a faulty TPS?

The bike seems to be getting hot really fast and my temp gun is reading around 243 degrees in like a minute or so. No bubbles in the overflow tank. When i changed the coolant i removed the bleeder screw and let all the air and bubbles out the system. I tested the thermostat and it opens under hot water and closed under cold.

The fan blade moves freely. Not sure what you mean with 12v jumper? Please explain the process so i can try it out. Thankz
 

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If you plan on keeping the Raptor and adding mods in the future get the PCV with timing, it will have way more adjustments than the ones you are looking it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update on the fan.

I started up the rap7 and unplugged the temp sensor (green plug) located under the thermostat. What do you know the fan came on. What does that mean? Bad temp sensor or bad fan relay?
 

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Update on the fan.

I started up the rap7 and unplugged the temp sensor (green plug) located under the thermostat. What do you know the fan came on. What does that mean? Bad temp sensor or bad fan relay?
You should be using your shop manual for the correct test procedure and sequence.
 
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