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I have a durablue adjustable rear link, but for the heck of it, I flipped the stock link and left the durablue off to see how it worked. Now when I press down on the back it seems as though I can bottom out the shock or something. I couldn't bottom out before. It was dark when I finished, but I'll have to look at it later. Mines an 03 and I didn't trim anything. Anyone else have this problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Xplocivic said:
I have a durablue adjustable rear link, but for the heck of it, I flipped the stock link and left the durablue off to see how it worked. Now when I press down on the back it seems as though I can bottom out the shock or something. I couldn't bottom out before. It was dark when I finished, but I'll have to look at it later. Mines an 03 and I didn't trim anything. Anyone else have this problem?
It seemed to me that the link could bind on the bottom of the shock which would lead to the shock getting bent if you came down hard from a big jump.
So I measured it up & decided to grind out the link as shown.
Now I get the full travel of the suspension without any binding.

Take note:
Nothing should touch or bind untill the shock has fully bottomed out regardless of wether the link is flipped or not.
The Stroke of the shock is what limits the suspension movement, & the idea of flipping the link is to lower the bike, but retain the full stroke of the shock
 

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I flipped mine and undid the coil on the shock to be able to see exactly if my shock was able to bottom out. The answer was no. I find out that the grinding instruction at the beginning of this topic were wrong ( for me at least) The real problem was with the opposite side of the rebound adjustement that was hitting the aluminium linkage. I grinded it till I was able to bottom out...so you dont have to grind the steel link, just the shock and the alu link a little bit...
 

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Discussion Starter #45
joeracing1 said:
I flipped mine and undid the coil on the shock to be able to see exactly if my shock was able to bottom out. The answer was no. I find out that the grinding instruction at the beginning of this topic were wrong ( for me at least) The real problem was with the opposite side of the rebound adjustement that was hitting the aluminium linkage. I grinded it till I was able to bottom out...so you dont have to grind the steel link, just the shock and the alu link a little bit...
The ali casting of the shock & the ali dogbone are very close, but didn't touch on mine, should have pointed that out, but didn't think it would be an issue.
The Steel link definately touched, so that was where I focussed my attention.

I can edit a pic (in my copious spare time) with an arrow to show where to look & check this.

Good call & great first post too!
If I wasn't a cheapscate & had signed up on VIP I would flip you some karma on that!!
Glad to have you aboard, keep away from the off topic section though, they'll subvert your mind over there (I never go there of course)
 

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FosgateXLimited said:
would this be a worthwhile mod if u had the stock axle and stock a-arms/shocks?
I have the stock axle and shocks and i think its worth it... Helps alot around cornering
 

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Discussion Starter #48
yamahafanatic5 said:
FosgateXLimited said:
would this be a worthwhile mod if u had the stock axle and stock a-arms/shocks?
I have the stock axle and shocks and i think its worth it... Helps alot around cornering
Everything you can do to lower or widen or both will improve your handling.
I am still using the stock axle, but with 50mm spacers each side
Lowering the quad made at least as much difference I thought as widening it
Both = :thumbsup:
 

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I have a set of Ishock A-arms and shocks, and I'm going to flip the link to see how the bike sits. I'll let everyone know. This sould pretty interesting.
 

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I flipped my rear shock link added wheel spacers in front and rear and added a lowering kit in the front and my bike handles 100% better than stock. I can take turns alot faster than when I was stock and you don't have the feeling of the bike flipping over...
 

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Aunestly , how hard is this, compared to some other mods? how hard is it, and is it worth it?
 

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It took longer for the sparay paint dry that u paint the cut part with then the rest of it did.
 

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And everyone agrees that theres no downside? scrubbing scraping, binding, bottoming out?
 

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Its retardedly easy to do



your sig pic is too big...
 

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size a little better now? finally had some time to fix it
 

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Whelp... I guess this will be my first mod that I'll do to my bike. That and soon the YFZ shocks as were recommended to me before.

Anyone that has done this mod and is 250lbs plus? Any problems?!?!

Last time we were out I set up a little track with multiple turns and my son on his 400EX was turning faster lap times (it was a smallish track, though), and I have extensive automobile performance driving experience (so I know how to get around a track quick). My 660 just didn't handle great. I got on his 400ex and was beating his times by 1-2 seconds per lap... so it's definately handling!
 

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A buddy of mine is in the 250lb range. And I swapped him my bike for a hour to see how it performed with him on it and such. it just looks so much more stable and he said it still rode like a Caddy. He is in the range of 260lbs with gear and whatnot. As for me I am 150lb fully loaded up and I could feel a ton more difference in handling and how much faster I could push it threw corners without getting that OH $%^# feeling.
 

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just got my front a-arm's modified for yfz shocks, now i want to lower the rear. but i have a 01, will the linkage from 02-05 fit or do i need to get a lowering link? thanks.
 
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