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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, everyone. I recently purchased an 05 660R. I've been tinkering with it for a few weeks now trying to get it back running. The previous owner allowed it to sit for several years with the seat and lid off of the air box, so it got full of water. Luckily it was never even spun over that way so the water drained right out and with a few quick oil changes it appears to be in good working order. All that being said, the carbs seem to still be having an issue. the ATV will crank right up and idle fine but when you put it in gear and begin to move it sputters and dies out. Can someone offer me a link with the proper procedures for checking the float's height? Thanks in advance. BTW, I've been enjoying lurking on this site since I bought the quad. There is some really good info on here.
 

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Hello, everyone. I recently purchased an 05 660R. I've been tinkering with it for a few weeks now trying to get it back running. The previous owner allowed it to sit for several years with the seat and lid off of the air box, so it got full of water. Luckily it was never even spun over that way so the water drained right out and with a few quick oil changes it appears to be in good working order. All that being said, the carbs seem to still be having an issue. the ATV will crank right up and idle fine but when you put it in gear and begin to move it sputters and dies out. Can someone offer me a link with the proper procedures for checking the float's height? Thanks in advance. BTW, I've been enjoying lurking on this site since I bought the quad. There is some really good info on here.
Are you sure this model year doesnt have the park brake sensor and rev limiter activating................
 

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If your worried about your floats you can read the sticky on the clear tube method and it will help you adjust them. =)
 

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Master of the Electron
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REad "most common problems" sticky in 660 General section, specifically related to RPM limiters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the prompt responses guys. I had previously read a lot of the FAQs and Quadmaniacs write ups on the rev limiter. I eliminated that option as soon as I read his info. When I unplug the sensor down bottom the REVERSE light comes on and it won't barely let you give it any throttle but I can plug it up and it'll rev up nicely as high as you care to rev it. It just won't carry the load of the weight of the quad when you try and move it. If I feather the clutch and rev the mess out of it I can get it to move and ride around the yard in 1st gear but it smokes really badly. It's a whitish color smoke. It also backfires some before it dies. Thanks in advance!
 

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Thanks for the prompt responses guys. I had previously read a lot of the FAQs and Quadmaniacs write ups on the rev limiter. I eliminated that option as soon as I read his info. When I unplug the sensor down bottom the REVERSE light comes on and it won't barely let you give it any throttle but I can plug it up and it'll rev up nicely as high as you care to rev it. It just won't carry the load of the weight of the quad when you try and move it. If I feather the clutch and rev the mess out of it I can get it to move and ride around the yard in 1st gear but it smokes really badly. It's a whitish color smoke. It also backfires some before it dies. Thanks in advance!
What size are the pilot and main jets. Are there any air box mods. Are you using aftermarket needles.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm not 100% sure of the needle size. I saw it stamped on the pieces but forgot the numbers. I remember reading on this site that they were stock size. There are no airbox modifications. I'm using a Moose brand rebuild kit that I bought from my local dealership. I assumed it was OEM replacement stuff. Agian, not 100% sure of that either.
 

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Master of the Electron
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Have you cleaned the carbs yet - especially the tiny pilot jet passages? If you haven't yet, this would be the next project. Cleaning all passages thorougly and replacing any suspect o-rings should return the carbs to proper operation - and with luck, the Raptor to good running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks, Quad. In all honesty I didn't have an air nozzle for my air compressor so I replaced all the removable pieces that were included in the rebuild kit and re-o'ringed the other pieces and merely sprayed the carbs out with carb/choke cleaner. I also used a q-tip to clean some of the smaller orfices. All that being said my father just dropped the carbs back off to me. I gave them to him to go through incase I overlooked something. We located the float procedure and reset the floats back to 13mm to the sealing surface of the bowl. He blew everything out with compressed air and set the pilots to 2.5 turns out. I'm going to install them this evening and see if the floats made a difference. Do y'all think they could make it run really lean?
 

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Thanks, Quad. In all honesty I didn't have an air nozzle for my air compressor so I replaced all the removable pieces that were included in the rebuild kit and re-o'ringed the other pieces and merely sprayed the carbs out with carb/choke cleaner. I also used a q-tip to clean some of the smaller orfices. All that being said my father just dropped the carbs back off to me. I gave them to him to go through incase I overlooked something. We located the float procedure and reset the floats back to 13mm to the sealing surface of the bowl. He blew everything out with compressed air and set the pilots to 2.5 turns out. I'm going to install them this evening and see if the floats made a difference. Do y'all think they could make it run really lean?
If the float level is to low it will run lean and too high it will run rich......
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, I installed the carbs and cleaning them doesn't seem to have made a difference. Symptoms: Will only crank on half choke, I can slowly turn the choke off as long as I go in with the idle thumb screw, any throttle given while choke is off bogs it down and dies, while choke is half pulled I can rev it up properly. I've removed them several times tonight and adjusted the pilots each time. I tried them at 2.5,3,2 turns out and it seems to make very little difference. It lightly backfires/sputters when you rev it several times in a row as if it's too rich. Also, I removed the tops and changed the placement of the e-clip from the 4th notch to the 3rd notch on the slide. That made a slight difference and allowed it to crank when it started running on half choke. I'm definitely a newb so any suggestions are appreciated and put to the test. Thanks guys!
 

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You gotta be running real lean if it only runs with the choke. What size pilots are in it? I would put bigger pilot jets in it if you cant get it going. Did you get your floats adjusted like the clear tube method sugests?
 

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Well, I installed the carbs and cleaning them doesn't seem to have made a difference. Symptoms: Will only crank on half choke, I can slowly turn the choke off as long as I go in with the idle thumb screw, any throttle given while choke is off bogs it down and dies, while choke is half pulled I can rev it up properly. I've removed them several times tonight and adjusted the pilots each time. I tried them at 2.5,3,2 turns out and it seems to make very little difference. It lightly backfires/sputters when you rev it several times in a row as if it's too rich. Also, I removed the tops and changed the placement of the e-clip from the 4th notch to the 3rd notch on the slide. That made a slight difference and allowed it to crank when it started running on half choke. I'm definitely a newb so any suggestions are appreciated and put to the test. Thanks guys!
You won't like me saying this. But your carbs are still dirty. Either pilot jets or fuel screw passages.............
 

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K just so we are clear. The needle is what you adjusted with the c-clip on the top of the carbs. The pilot jet is inside the bowl next to the main jets. The air/fuel screws are what you have been turning in and out on the bottom of the carbs. If it only runs with the choke then it has to be running lean. The choke closes off the air and makes it run rich to help it start when its cold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
My dad adjusted the floats to 13mm from the sealing surface of the bowl. That sound about right? As far as the needle size I'll make note of them when I pull it down this next time. Do you guys recommend taking them back apart and soaking them in a vat of carb cleaner?
 

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Master of the Electron
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No, we recommend pulling them apart, and cleaning manually with spray carb cleaner and some fine copper strands (like stolen from speaker wire) - if you can't see light, nice round shafts of light, coming through your pilot jets you will have exactly your symptoms.

Spray through every passage you can find in the body and look for it to exit somewhere - it always does... and if it's just a trickle, none should be - keep at it till it's a good flow.

Any water in in the carb is great at causing major gunk and corrosion so be thorough! Soaking the entire bowl in cleaner won't hurt, but it usually requires separation of the two carb bodies (unless you have a BIG can of cleaner), which is a pain.
 

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My dad adjusted the floats to 13mm from the sealing surface of the bowl. That sound about right? As far as the needle size I'll make note of them when I pull it down this next time. Do you guys recommend taking them back apart and soaking them in a vat of carb cleaner?
If when you adjusted your floats you just tweaked the level to get it proper, you are probably okay, if you had to bend them a lot, there may be a problem,.................
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I would say yes. Before I pulled the carbs back down it would run on full choke only and you could rev it up normally until you took it off choke and began to move and it would kill the quad.
 
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