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Discussion Starter #1
ive been trying to get my front end set up right for the better part of a week now. when i was changing out the a-arms i noticed the lower right (when sitting on the bike) was kind of hard to get the bolts in compared to the left. also the right side a-arms dont move freely compared to the left. they are very tight when i move them by hand. could it be possible that i got the bolts too tight and its not allowing them to pivot freely? my worst fear is the frame is bent but i cant see any bends or anywhere that the pant is cracked. at first i thought maybe it was my 450 shocks(ive been trying to get them set up also. i thought maybe one was blown and sagging more than the other) so i instsalled my factory ones because i know they are good and its still sits the same. the left side a-arms are "flatter" than the right. also i notice that the ball joints on the left and right side arent level with eachother. i dont know what to do, any help will be appreciated

here's the pictures



 

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ive been trying to get my front end set up right for the better part of a week now. when i was changing out the a-arms i noticed the lower right (when sitting on the bike) was kind of hard to get the bolts in compared to the left. also the right side a-arms dont move freely compared to the left. they are very tight when i move them by hand. could it be possible that i got the bolts too tight and its not allowing them to pivot freely? my worst fear is the frame is bent but i cant see any bends or anywhere that the pant is cracked. at first i thought maybe it was my 450 shocks(ive been trying to get them set up also. i thought maybe one was blown and sagging more than the other) so i instsalled my factory ones because i know they are good and its still sits the same. the left side a-arms are "flatter" than the right. also i notice that the ball joints on the left and right side arent level with eachother. i dont know what to do, any help will be appreciated

here's the pictures



Your left rear tire is softer then the right rear tire.............
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You know willy, I never gave the pressure in the tires a thought. I'm retarded. I will bring them up to pressure when I get home tomorrow afternoon and update then. Thanks Willy.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I wonder if I put the top a-arms on the wrong sides? Anyone know if it matters? I didn't see to where the were marked left or right. I just made sure the grease zerks were pointing up. I will feel quite stupid if this turns out to be the problem.
 

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Yes it does matter i had nothing but problems trying to get shit fixd with the upper a arms on upside down lol
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I got conformation from lonestar that they're installed correctly. I have no clue what to do now. This fuckin thing is pissin me off. The rear tires have equal pressure as do the fronts and I still have the same problem with the left a-arm being flatter than the right
 

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I got conformation from lonestar that they're installed correctly. I have no clue what to do now. This fuckin thing is pissin me off. The rear tires have equal pressure as do the fronts and I still have the same problem with the left a-arm being flatter than the right
But are the rear tires the same height............
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i will put a tape measure to them... give me a sec
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok so i got about 18 7/8" on the left rear and 19 3/8" on the right rear. i dont understand what your getting at here willy.
 

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he's trying to say the body of the bike is leaning, and that's what's doing that to your arms

personally, i think it might be a bent ball joint? sounds weird i know but my quad did the exact same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
yeah thats what i thought he was getting at. i didnt think it would affect that front end that badly though. i wondered that about the ball joints too, i just dont see how that could be. theyre brand new. if the frame was bent on the right side where the a-arms bolt up what kind of problems would i encounter?
 

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i'd grab a level and check your camber.. which looks off from here. it looks like you have a good bit of negative on the right side (sitting on the bike) and close to straight up on the left. if that's true, take measurements between the frame and the arms and make sure your arms are square.. which i'm betting they are.. at that point, look for a bent ball joint.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
yeah lsr recommends a bit of negative camber(1-3 degrees if i remember correctly) for recreational riding. i was working on the right side (when sitting on the bike) when i noticed the difference in the a-arms and stopped everything to try and find a solution. i havent messed with the left side camber yet. the top of the left wheel is laying out and needs to come back in. so should i set the camber of both wheels to recommended specs and then move on?
 

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i would set everything to equal specs and start there. the full in on the front heims, 3 out on the rear, then the same number of turns for both top balls and both bottom balls. see where you are at that point, as the measurements and geometry should, in theory be identical.

ETA: once you have the setup the same, even if it's not right, you can see how it sits. with the setup different, you almost have to expect results like this.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i think tomorrow im going to start all over. when you say front and rear heims are you talking about the tie rod ends? front being the outside and rear being the ones closest to the steering stem?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
shad0 thanks for your help man. youve saved my sanity. ive been up for 27 hours so im gonna call it a night and try and get to it tomorrow after work. again thanks for your help
 

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i think tomorrow im going to start all over. when you say front and rear heims are you talking about the tie rod ends? front being the outside and rear being the ones closest to the steering stem?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rod_end_bearing

heim joints are also known as rod end bearings...

the heim joints (your pair might not have it. the newer lsr arms have a different adjustment) are the inside (frame) joints of the upper a-arms. look like eye-bolts with a ball joint the bolt goes completely through.

tie rods are ball joints on both ends and all they effect is toe-in. you're looking to setup caster first, then camber from that, then toe-in. if you set the camber first, it's going to be off when you change the caster, and changing camber or caster is going to effect toe-in.

caster is changed with the heim joints on the upper a-arms. there are 2 heims, and front and back will be obvious once you recognize the heim joints for what they are. camber is changed with the ball joints on the a-arms i'd recommend matching the lowers first, say 3-5 turns out each and lock them in, then start with 3-5 turns each on the tops and use those to change your camber. toe-in is changed with the tie rods. loosen the lock nuts. a full turn on both rods will change your toe by about 1/8". oh and don't forget to use a couple ratchet straps to set your bars and hold them straight.
 

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oh and to zero out your tie rod adjustment, so to speak, turn tie rod ends full in, then back them out 5 rotations. you won't be toe'd properly, so to speak, but you'll have a balanced length on each side, which is important for obvious reasons.

the key, and the point i'm getting at, is you have to get everything set square to begin with. even if you know it's not the correct settings (probably close on the caster, way too much neg camber, and an assload of toe-in), you're not going to get accurate measurements otherwise.
 
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