GEARHEAD9969 said:
The biggest mistake people make when buying exhaust is looking at the "big" gains. I question how the gains where made. Any motor mod has a cause and effect. I'd never buy an exhaust system just for a stock motor, I would however buy with other mods in mind. I currently have a yosh rs7 full system, open airbox with the gytr filter/adapter and the pcIII, I didn't expect full benifits from the exhaust with just those mods so I also plan on doing a hi-compression piston and at least a stage 1 hot cam when they are available. I agree with the fact most of those pipe shoot outs are more of a crappy paid advertisement than anything. Especially when they have notes that say something like jetting not required....hmmmm my$.02
I agree that looking at peak horsepower number is a waste of time. Look for big fat long pulling
torque numbers and an extended usable RPM range. That is where it's at for realworld riding power. I really don't care if a pipe will pull 52 hp peak if it only does it in a 300 RPM band and someone can only pull ahead of me pinned in fifth, down hill, with the wind at your back, for 5 seconds of the race. What I want to know is how broad is the torque curve, and how much power am I producing after the stock pipe would have signed off.
That being said I see no reason why someone shouldn't get a pipe for a stock motor with intake and fuel controller mods. There are
significant gains to be had over the stock pipe. If it's the right pipe and it's tuned correctly.
Still don't think a pipe is worth anything on an internally stock motor? Take another look at that CT dyno chart in the shoot-out.Lame though it may be.
9 more foot pounds of torque at 3500 RPM. That's roughly a 30% gain and beat the stock torque all the way through!
Stayed above 40 hp through about a 4500 RPM range versus a 2500 RPM range stock. That's friggin huge.
Stayed above the stock peak HP for a band nearly 2700RPMs long. Sweet.
All that and I'd bet they didn't take the time to tune it fully. But yes they did at least use a fuel controller on this test.
I'd pay $500 for that. I'd bet it would have done nearly as well with two discs removed to make it a bit quieter too. I would bet money LTE and Barkers could rival if not outperform those number too.
You have a valid point that in order to take FULL advantage of a pipe, a piston and cam may be needed, but I would have to argue that a GOOD pipe is great bang for the buck bolt on power and will allow you the head room to do internal motor mods later.
As far as that pipe shoot-out goes...It was nearly a complete waste of the 15 miutes it took me to read it. I would much rather they do only three or four pipes the RIGHT way, with dyno tuning and fuel controllers on ALL pipes. By the way let's look at testing the pipes that are actually available and popular. Hindle??? Might very well be a good pipe if you don't mind buying one out of Canada. Has anyone ever even seen a Hindle? Don't like the noise level of the CT? Need it to be " just one decibel quieter"? Take a couple of discs out of the can dumbass. Then test it. It takes all of about 5 minutes to do. That's one of the great things about a tunable can. Too friggin lazy or stupid to do all those pipes right? Fine, do HMF, Yosh, CT, and LTE CORRECTLY with fuel controllers this month. Then do a few more in another issue.
