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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I am getting this ‘05 raptor 660 running after sitting outside for 6 years.

Here’s the story: In 2013, cam sprocket broke off. Broke the lobes on the cam and shattered the valve cover. Quad sat for about a year with old gas in the carb bowls “stupid mistake”. In 2014, I JB welded the hole in the valve cover and installed a stage 1 hot cam, Weller Racing cam sprocket bolt kit, cam chain, and a carb rebuild kit.

Tried starting it but wasn’t running right. I was starting my college degree that fall, so I put it away outside under a tarp. Again, left gas in float bowl “dumba$$”.

So, now that I own my own house and have some property, I’m trying to get the ole’ raptor started again.

First, I checked valve gaps. Turns out I was using inch, not metric. So, the valve clearance was way off. Set clearance according to hot cam specs.

Next, I had to address the gummied up carbs. Pain in the @ss, gum was all the way up in the petcock. Bought a new carb rebuild kit. Rodded the passages and set it back to Yamaha settings. Quad started up and had a strong idle. I was ecstatic! However, when I gave it gas it stumbled and wouldn’t rev up. If I pulled the choke out about halfway, it would rev higher and I could rev it out some more with tons of backfire.

I looked at the old original jets and there were some 25 pilots in there. Duh, there’s a fmf full exhaust. Air box snorkel has3 holes drilled with breather filters. All other jets are factory. Also, I took some speaker wire and rodded out the two pin holes behind the butterfly valves. I didn’t see these the first time I cleaned the carbs.

Now, the quad revs up but there is an annoying hesitation around 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. If I keep the throttle on at 1/4 and then rev it, it will clear up and I’m able to ride it. Its ballsy as fu<k!!

I tried turning out the right carb screw to 2 1/4, 2 1/2, now I’m on 2 3/4. I think I’m seeing improvement but it’s hard to tell. QUESTION: Should I compensate the left side as I’m doing the right?

I’m seeing progress but I don’t know what to do moving forward. Should I continue fiddling with the carbs and try cleaning it even more? Does anybody know what jet changes fmf requires for a full exhaust?

Side note, I tested the reverse sensor with an ohm meter. When the quad is not in reverse, I get a small resistance value. When I put it in reverse, it’s an open load. To test the wiring up to cdi for any breaks, I tested from connector to connector all the way to cdi connector. I got a small resistance reading each time so, there isn’t an issue with reverse rev limiter. Since this is an ‘05, there isn’t a parking brake circuit.


Another side note to emphasize draining the carb bowls before putting anything away for an extended period of time: I also have an ‘03 ktm 250sx that I put away the same time as the raptor. It was garage kept, the carb bowls were empty and oil was drained from the gearbox. The bike started up after 6 years without an issue, second kick.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Update. Cleaned the two holes behind the butterfly valve a little better. Carb cleaner, speaker wire and compressed air. It’s now revving up a little better and more rideable but only if I have it revving really high. I can’t ride it off of idle to 1/4 throttle. QUESTION: Would adjusting the pilot screw help in this case?
25 pilots. Left carb 3 turns, right carb 2 1/2 turns
 

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Master of the Electron
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14,887 Posts
With holed airbox you need much larger main jets and aftermarket needles. I'd suggest getting a DynoJet kit for the 660.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the input! I’ll look into dynojet kits. In the meantime, I’m looking into the clear tube method now. The current float level is about 8-9mm above the mating surface of the carb and bowls. I need to get that down to 3mm, or just at the shoulder. I followed the manual and set the float at 13mm, maybe slightly under. I’m going to try setting it at 14-15mm as mentioned in the sticky.

Also, I found quite a few leaks, coolant at the radiator and oil somewhere on the valve cover that I need to address. I don’t think I yamabonded the valve cover to the head when I worked on the cam.

One other thing I wanted to throw out there, I disconnected the reverse sensor plug and it started revving a lot better. I’m able to actually ride it quite well staying above 1/2 throttle. Starting off I have to keep it above 1/2 throttle and when I slow down to make a turn I got to keep it revving. It’s getting difficult to keep all the symptoms straight to make correct changes.🤦‍♂️
 

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Master of the Electron
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What color wire did you disconnect? Your description of the result is backwards from what should happen with the reverse switch wire...
 
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