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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking forward to actually getting an accurate display of what my mods are getting out of the 700. Can't say I know alot when it comes to dynoing as I've never really been around one, anyone know of any important things to pay attention to when it's being done? The guy that's doing it is about 2 1/2 hours away and worked for Yamaha R&D for a number of years, then an aftermarket cam and piston manufacturer before being hired by this motorsports dealership performance division. I'm anxious to see what a few hundred dollars and a little experienced tuning will get on top of my 3 mods. I'll be sure to post results and a graph when I get it done. The mods are prodesign intake with K&N filter, EHS Racing Airbox lid, PC III, and HMF Bill Ballance Carbon Pro Full Exhaust with the TRM installed and a 15t Renthal Sprocket.
 

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I've read where if you use like a flat track rear tire that your dyno numbers will be more accurate, as opposed to using a tire with knobbies..If your dyno guy knows what he is doing (sounds like he will) you have nothing to worry about.. :thumbsup:
 

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One more thing, make sure your chain is clean..The street bike guy's claim you can lose a few ponies if its dirty and gunked up with grime.. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well it was a less than pleasurable experience at the dyno today. Nothing the dyno tech did, actually he did what he could. After getting everything setup and taking a few test runs he made some adjustments to the wide open throttle setting and the numbers were somewhat erratic. It appears my throttle position sensor is bad, it would show anywhere from 40% to 80% at idle and at full throttle it was all over the place. The inital hp was 40.16hp ,after removing the ehs airbox racing lid with two small adjustments it peaked at 43.52hp. He said it would be a waste of money to go any further until the TPS issue was resolved :mad:. Kind of b.s. that you spend this much money on something only to have some cheap sensor continously go bad. The dealership was pretty good about getting the replacement on it's way so now I guess it's wait and see. Tony the guy that dynoed it seemed to think there's still 3+ hp to get out of it when I have the chance to get it back out there. The mods are pcIII, HMF Bill Ballance Carbon Pro Full with the TRM installed, and Pro Design Intake with K&N and I was running the stock gearing. Despite the problems with the sensor his adjustments did really improve the overall curve.
 

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Your numbers seem a tad low. Are you at high elevation? Or maybe it was a stingy dyno. Bummer about the TPS. I don't see how it was running right at all if it was off by that much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
BJH said:
Your numbers seem a tad low. Are you at high elevation? Or maybe it was a stingy dyno. Bummer about the TPS. I don't see how it was running right at all if it was off by that much.
Not to many high spots in Iowa where it was dynoed :grin_nod:, I to thought the numbers were low, somewhat dissapointing as I figured I was easily at 45hp without it being tuned. Not sure if that's due to the TPS problems, the fact that the map was rich or the culmination on the two. I don't know what to think about the TPS I would think it would either work or it wouldn't, this one was just all over the place. I'm curious to see if there's a big difference when the new TPS arrives and is installed.

P.S. Can anyone comment on what gear the quad is normally dynoed in? He did mine in the highest gear, for some reason I though they were normally done in 3rd gear, does it make a difference?
 

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You run slicks?

Once you get her all tuned up you should take off the ehs lid again and see if it changes things?
Then put it back on.......just to see, cause my butt dyno felt no difference.
3hp is what you get when you remove the stock lid! So obviously most, if not all that 3 hp addition was from the tuning/adjustments. But I am curious if there is an impact......
 

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P.S. Can anyone comment on what gear the quad is normally dynoed in? He did mine in the highest gear, for some reason I though they were normally done in 3rd gear, does it make a difference?

Normally they do a second gear roll on and a fourth gear roll on. Believe it or not you will usually see a higher HP number when 5th gear is used.

I think the Tech was pretty close on his est of about 3 plus more HP with the new TPS sensor. It sounds like they have a pretty accurate dyno as 46 RWHP is what a single exhaust with high flow air filter realisically gets after the map is dialed in, at least on the Dyno Jet eddie current dyno at our local Yamaha dealership.
 

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I dyno'd at 50.6 WHP with DMC Afterburner exhaust...the LTE's dyno'd 49.9 but the curve is completely different and the LTE's were faster on the hill without a doubt
 

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FlatStateRacing said:
P.S. Can anyone comment on what gear the quad is normally dynoed in? He did mine in the highest gear, for some reason I though they were normally done in 3rd gear, does it make a difference?

It should be done in whatever gear puts the transmission in a 1:1 ratio with the output shaft and the crankshaft. Usually 4th gear
 

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Raptorjunkyard said:
I dyno'd at 50.6 WHP with DMC Afterburner exhaust...the LTE's dyno'd 49.9 but the curve is completely different and the LTE's were faster on the hill without a doubt
was this with all your sig. mods....or with just the 3-mods? With slicks or knobbies?
 

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That was stock boom I make 57 WHP now getting bored with stoke bore time for 727 CP piston
 

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I ran 51 HP with Dr. D slip on, pro design, and PCM III. Ran 48.5 HP at first. After I removed my EHS airbox lid I gained over 2 hp. Sucks that you pay $100 for a nice lid. Oh well. That was at around 4000 feet also.
 

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Just something to add. Have you checked if the PCIII TPS Cable was making a good contact with the yellow wire on the TPS? If that connection is not good, then you will get strange readings.

Also, if they made the runs with knobbly tires, then you will also see low HP readings.
 

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im bringing mine to kms to get dynoed today 12/12/06 i have pc3 with full curtis sparks pipe/ lid off stock air cleaner/ ill let u know how it turns out
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
135boom said:
You run slicks?

Once you get her all tuned up you should take off the ehs lid again and see if it changes things?
Then put it back on.......just to see, cause my butt dyno felt no difference.
3hp is what you get when you remove the stock lid! So obviously most, if not all that 3 hp addition was from the tuning/adjustments. But I am curious if there is an impact......
The tires weren't exactly slicks as I would call them, they had tread but the lugs were large and flat. Don't know if that robbed some of the hp as there was some vibration when it was being dynoed, but I have no idea if the amount of vibration was normal or not. Once I get it tuned I'm definitely going to play with airbox lids again, kinda dissapointed that the EHS cost's as much as it does and it's still very restrictive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Freez said:
Just something to add. Have you checked if the PCIII TPS Cable was making a good contact with the yellow wire on the TPS? If that connection is not good, then you will get strange readings.

Also, if they made the runs with knobbly tires, then you will also see low HP readings.
I was thinking about taking a look at that connection, it's currently just scotchlocked on there, might pull it off before the new TPS arrives and solder it on there to see if that changes anything.
 

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Guys you cant really compare dyno numbers from different dynos around different parts of the country. Eddie current dynos will give lower HP numbers than inertia dynos running in high gear vs 4th gear etc. The bottom line is to tune and get the most out of your mods so you don't leave any HP on the table.

I only got 50.44 and 48.33 lbs of TQ out of mine with LTE duals and GYT-R filter and adapter with no lid and I have flat outrun other 700R's that had better dyno sheets than I with lighter, younger riders on them as well ;) Dyno sheets don't win races well set up bikes with good riders do :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
RaptorRandy27 said:
Guys you cant really compare dyno numbers from different dynos around different parts of the country. Eddie current dynos will give lower HP numbers than inertia dynos running in high gear vs 4th gear etc. The bottom line is to tune and get the most out of your mods so you don't leave any HP on the table.

I only got 50.44 and 48.33 lbs of TQ out of mine with LTE duals and GYT-R filter and adapter with no lid and I have flat outrun other 700R's that had better dyno sheets than I with lighter, younger riders on them as well ;) Dyno sheets don't win races well set up bikes with good riders do :thumbsup:
That's exactly what the guy doing the tuning was telling me, don't pay any attention to the numbers just look at the curve. He did really smooth the curve up, especially under 4200 RPM and I'm looking forward to getting the sensor swapped out and seeing what some fine tuning can do.
 
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