[Splinter]

Well me and my old man have been threw this website upside down and backwards and still can't find any answers as to what are problem is.

The story: I was cruising along through the woods at a good speed when the raptor died. No sounds, just flat out stop running. After a long walk back we brought it home and found no spark. SO we came on here to start trouble shooting. After searching we've done the following...

Put in a new Stator, coil, and spark plug cap.

We still didn't have spark and then proceeded to look over EVERYTHING electrical. It didn't take long to figure out we wasted money... The orange wire on the CDI had broke from having sex with the battery. So we soldered it back together and pulled every plug apart and sprayed them clean with electrical component cleaner. We now have spark! A health one too. But now the raptor wont start. Any ideas?

It turns over easy and will turn over every time with no issues. If you continue to keep trying to start it, it will began to get some smoke coming from the little tube that goes to the intake. We tried spraying starter fluid in the intake but i don't think enough is getting there. So i'm going to take all the intake boots off tomorrow to spray directly into the carb. One more thing, we got a little back fire, but still it's never started. Could the timing some how be off?

Fellas I really appreciate the help!

PS: It's a 02 660R
-Andy

 

[willykiller]

Read this thread............http://www.raptorforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39381

 

[QuadManiac]

If you get no attempt to run with starting fluid, go back to your original stator - check to verify that your woodruff key is intact when you get the side cover off.

 

[Splinter]

Read this thread............http://www.raptorforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39381

So you think it might be my starter?

 

[Splinter]

If you get no attempt to run with starting fluid, go back to your original stator - check to verify that your woodruff key is intact when you get the side cover off.

Thanks for your help. I sprayed starter flued straight into the carbs today and still got nothing.

It sounds as if it's trying to start, turns over just a little faster, but just doesn't catch and run. Where would the woodruff key be? I'll pull the old one out and verify this tomorrow.

Anyone think it might be the CDI? I'm starting to think the timing is off some how or that the spark is to weak.

Thanks again to the both of you for your help!

-Andy

 

[QuadManiac]

So you think it might be my starter?

I think Willy's reference link suggests unusual STATOR (not starter) issues even when spark is there - most common with aftermarket stators.

Here's your sequence of events as I have read them:

Your engine died - no spark.
You mistakenly replaced your stator with new, still no spark.
You found the problem was the orange wire (spark pulses from CDI to coil) shorted to battery.
You fixed this and now have spark but no start with starting fluid. (If you have spark, it is not the CDI).

I suggested returning to your original stator, it was working properly - you now know it was NOT the problem. New stators (aftermarket, not OEM - what did you buy?) are famous for infant mortality or being wound wrong. Put the old, known working stator back in.

I suggested checking the woodruff key (its the key that locks the flywheel to the crankshaft) because if it shears, ignition timing will be completely off- you can have great spark, just at the wrong time.

CHeck this by putting a screwdriver in the spark plug hole, touching the piston. Turn the engine counter clockwise by hand till you see the I in the flywheel inspection port while watching the screwdriver rise due to piston motion. Does the I show up when the screwdriver is at top of its travel? Woodruff key is probably ok then.

 

[willykiller]

So you think it might be my starter?

What I remember about this weird stator problem and I have seen it twice, is that the engine spins over harder then normal, it will occasionaly start but with alot of effort, it will start though when pull started by a vehicle, the engine will not have all of its performance, one other member had this problem at the same time and his stator was the source of the problem...............

 

[Splinter]

I think Willy's reference link suggests unusual STATOR (not starter) issues even when spark is there - most common with aftermarket stators.

Here's your sequence of events as I have read them:

Your engine died - no spark.
You mistakenly replaced your stator with new, still no spark.
You found the problem was the orange wire (spark pulses from CDI to coil) shorted to battery.
You fixed this and now have spark but no start with starting fluid. (If you have spark, it is not the CDI).

I suggested returning to your original stator, it was working properly - you now know it was NOT the problem. New stators (aftermarket, not OEM - what did you buy?) are famous for infant mortality or being wound wrong. Put the old, known working stator back in.

I suggested checking the woodruff key (its the key that locks the flywheel to the crankshaft) because if it shears, ignition timing will be completely off- you can have great spark, just at the wrong time.

CHeck this by putting a screwdriver in the spark plug hole, touching the piston. Turn the engine counter clockwise by hand till you see the I in the flywheel inspection port while watching the screwdriver rise due to piston motion. Does the I show up when the screwdriver is at top of its travel? Woodruff key is probably ok then.

Both of you guys are being great help.

But just for clarification I had no spark with the old stator. It might be good (didn't check when I fixed the orange wire). The new stator is OEM. After looking through here I saw to stay away from aftermarket.

So before I read this I went back out and tried to see if I missed something small, and even put a new spark plug in. All i'm getting is bad backfires. SO i think the culprit is the woodruff key. I tried pulling that pulley off but found it's never impossible when you don't know what you're doing.

My new question: Should I stick with using your screw driver trick, or go ahead and pull that stator cover/pulley looking thing off? The timing is way off and I really think that the woodruff key is whats causing the backfires.

Appreciate the help guys.

-Andy

 

[nagel]

After having just fried my ignition circuit in my 04's CDI, I figured I would at least mention it..

My ground wire overheated and being twisted around the orange wire, burned and subsequently grounded that out / broke the orange wire. I repaired it, but then I had no spark (you say you do have spark). I did all sorts of tests that these guys recommended and determined what was GOOD first, and in the end, it WAS my CDI that was bad..

Perhaps the orange wire shorting out did something to the timing on the ignition circuit? Allowing you to get spark, but not at the right time? Just a thought... If you have a friends CDI you can swap with, you could eliminate that pretty fast...

 

[QuadManiac]

I doubt it's the CDI, nagel, but we can't discount it completely...

However, the original stator was likely NOT a problem - he replaced it due to no spark - but that turned out to be the melted orange wire.. the original stator is okay - 99.999% guaranteed.

What we DON'T know is condition of the new stator - what brand is it? RS and some other aftermarkets have a high % of immediate problems. Check timing with screwdriver, if ok - return to your old stator.

That pulley thing is the flywheel... don't remove it if you don't have to. It's a PITA.

 

[Ocelot13]

willy he said the new stator is oem... so its another yamaha one. he said he stayed away from aftermarket

 

[QuadManiac]

Missed that, thanks for bringing it to my attention - STILL, this is the most likely issue - When something goes wrong, first thing to ask is 'what was changed'? In this case, the stator was, before the real cause was found... with spark now, the most likely culprit is stator (as long as flywheel timing is verfied as correct).