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Discussion Starter #1
Story - or cut to chase below
-----------------------------
Doing front end grease maintenance like a good rider should to a older bike that probably hasn't seen that much love sense it rolled off the factory floor. I was also in the middle of some major up grades and reworks (carbs modded, rejet, new exhaust, 12 tooth [turns out was already on the bike now got a spare], oil change, reverse lever, and Brand new OEM 2008 450 shocks coming in the mail, need to get lower arms prep). I start stripping down the right side A arms and cleaning all of the grease point and joints which were so badly fowled up that a air assisted grease gun could not penetrate!! So already kicking myself for knowing that I wasn't going to get off the hook that easily on the grease job I break out my tie rod spreader/separator tool and start hammering away at the lower A arm. I realize to my dismay that even though using the proper tool I still ripped the boot (looking back I might been able to shim something in there to protect the boot). I look at the lower ball joint and and see the locking ring and was like cool I will just replace them, good thing to do anyways. I completely clean out the lower arm, and start on the upper right arm. I pop the ball joint and see that I ripped that boot too! Then I see that this joint is a press fit and I start to get worried. After some research I realize I'm screwed!!

The Chase
---------------
'08 yfz 450 brand new shocks will be used, and are on the way, cant get around that fact, I never want to spend a ton of money just solid upgrades.

The wallet needs to remain in mind, still would like to get a couple more dune trips in.

The options
------------
($130ish)
The cheap and easy fix. Ebay has new right side upper arms for about $100, and replace that lower joint I broke for about $30. Clean the left side joints but don't remove the ball joints from the wheel hub. Downside if i ever break another upper ball joint have to replace another arm, and potential pulling on one side due new joint on one side and not the other.

($280ish)
Middle of the road and maybe the smartest of the three. Replace both upper a arm with after market (found set on ebay 220) and this way the upper joints are now replaceable. Then replace the left side lower ball joint as well as the right for about $60. This option I will be able to replace all joints at will in the future easily and cheaply (lot less headaches always a plus), also no worries with the new shocks that are in the mail, everything bolts right up but still have to mod the lower arms which I was going to do anyways before this all happened.

($575-600ish)
I go for broke get +2 A arm kit and 2" spacers for the rear.
**I need to know if +2 Arms will work with yfz 450 shocks on raptor 660**
The bike has factor swing arm
If those two things could work together how will it ride for the dunes?

I'm leaning in the middle at $280 a the moment because I'm not seeing a big enough upside to the +2 kit and I currently dont know if it will work or not. I need to make a choice very fast, like next day or two. A buddy is going to work on my valves and I need humpty dumpty back together again.

Any help/advice would be great!!
Thanks!!
 

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Master of the Electron
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15,074 Posts
I am running Burgard +2 +1 arms (for stock shocks - not long travel) with YFZ shocks - great ride, especially in dunes. The bonus is the lower arm needs no mods for the YFZ shocks, they just bolt right on.

The upper shock mount at the frame needs needs just a bit of trimming to fit the YFZ shock eye, but this is necessary whether using extended or stock a-arms.

I would camp on eBay for a bit and find a used pair of extended a-arms - they make the bike handle and ride so much better, especially with the addition of the YFZ shocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Will the stock brake lines work with +2 A arms or do i need to buy new lines?

I'm really thinking about going for broke. If I do though im going in deap over the summer with +2 arms, and swing arm, hid's, and motor rebuild.

--------------------------------------

I just had a buddy re work my head and with the carb rejeted and the tabs filed out for the float i cant wait to get to the tunes she has a lot of pull now!!

Im starting to commit long haul for the raptor, I know most say that the 450s are the way to go but lets face it, if ur raptor is tuned in, then the people you are riding with at the dunes are never going to pull away from u. Straight aways....different story.

My buddy said that valve are starting to get tight and the top end is gona need work at some point. Im a bigger fan of fix before she bucks ya. In which case im looking at a total over haul. cams/valves maybe a 686 kit.
 

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Super Moderator
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17,058 Posts
If you remove the plastic guides/holders for the brake lines the stock will work with +2 a-arms.
 

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I have +3's on mine and my stock line fit. Like MadDog said you just have to remove plastic and a little re-routing and they will fit.

Also if you watch the forum you can grab so extended A-arms cheap. I picked up some Lonestar's for 225 shipped.
 

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Premium Member
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142 Posts
I would invest in aftermarket arms. Sell your stock arms and put that money towards a good set of +2 arms to go with your yfz shocks. Just a tip. To remove your arms without tearing your balljoint boots loosen the castle nut on the lower balljoint, with the atv still setting on the ground hit the lower a arm with a soft faced hammer and the balljoint should free itself from the spindle. To free the top a arm loosen the castle nut for the balljoint then while pulling up on the a arm hit the spindle close to where the tie rod is located and the ball joint will break loose from the spindle.
 

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Just a tip. To remove your arms without tearing your balljoint boots loosen the castle nut on the lower balljoint, with the atv still setting on the ground hit the lower a arm with a soft faced hammer and the balljoint should free itself from the spindle. To free the top a arm loosen the castle nut for the balljoint then while pulling up on the a arm hit the spindle close to where the tie rod is located and the ball joint will break loose from the spindle.
what he said. you should throw your ball joint/tire rod end splitters away, or use them creatively somehow. they are great for splitting motors and trannys. unless you are working on something ancient, the proper procedure is as described above. don't drive on the stud,ever, even with the castle nut on, you're guarenteed to screw the threads somewhere if you don't mushroom the stud. and don't use splitters on balljoints with boots.

ETA: oh, and i'd use this as an excuse to upgrade. FYI, i have found the top right for around $40 on eBay. the top left, for some reason, is less common. i wouldn't spend the $299 on the ricky stator uppers when you can snag a quality pair of used +2's for that much if your patient. anything that is standard shock mount will work nicely with the yfz450 shock.. that's my path.

ETA again: the stock lines will technically fit for +2's, but it looks goofy as sin. you can find 54" steel braided brake line for $20-$30 per line. so $40 - $60 to get brake lines that won't be stretched and stressed, and will look a hell of alot better.. like i said.. if you are patient like yoda, you will find the right set of arms for your budget. my advice, take it for what you feel it's worth. stay away from fullflight and ASR...
 

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Get some desent quality +2's. They dont have to be high end just dont get the ebay specials. (ASR or Full Flight) Get some that use ball joints and not hiem joints. There were some LSR's for 499 on ebay and some Burgaurd or Armidillo's for 469.


You can also have the YFZ shocks resprung and valved later on down the road if you find them too soft for +2 a arms.
 

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Why is everyone hating on Full Flight any way??? I have a set on my banshee and to be honest with you they are no better/worse then my LSR on the rappy. If I bought new I would buy the Full flights again but you can get some sweet deals if you watch the for sale section or ebay on higher end A-arms. There were some nice +2,s and custom Axis shocks on ebay that went for just over 500 the other day. Seemed like a good deal but I wouldnt be afarid of the Full Flights. I rode that banshee hard over the years to just beating the hell out of it, hit jumps lots of tumbling down gravel pits and the normal hard riding. I don't keep the shee looking good so thats my beater that is alway being rolled by me and my friends and never had a problem yet in 4 yrs.

Also I have YFZ shocks on my raptor and they ride amazing. I can't even think of how good shocks that were built for me would ride. I have +3s on mine though.
 

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i've personally never ran them. i have found that the majority of stuff that can be found mainly on eBay is that way for a reason.
 

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Story - or cut to chase below
-----------------------------
Doing front end grease maintenance like a good rider should to a older bike that probably hasn't seen that much love sense it rolled off the factory floor. I was also in the middle of some major up grades and reworks (carbs modded, rejet, new exhaust, 12 tooth [turns out was already on the bike now got a spare], oil change, reverse lever, and Brand new OEM 2008 450 shocks coming in the mail, need to get lower arms prep). I start stripping down the right side A arms and cleaning all of the grease point and joints which were so badly fowled up that a air assisted grease gun could not penetrate!! So already kicking myself for knowing that I wasn't going to get off the hook that easily on the grease job I break out my tie rod spreader/separator tool and start hammering away at the lower A arm. I realize to my dismay that even though using the proper tool I still ripped the boot (looking back I might been able to shim something in there to protect the boot). I look at the lower ball joint and and see the locking ring and was like cool I will just replace them, good thing to do anyways. I completely clean out the lower arm, and start on the upper right arm. I pop the ball joint and see that I ripped that boot too! Then I see that this joint is a press fit and I start to get worried. After some research I realize I'm screwed!!

The Chase
---------------
'08 yfz 450 brand new shocks will be used, and are on the way, cant get around that fact, I never want to spend a ton of money just solid upgrades.

The wallet needs to remain in mind, still would like to get a couple more dune trips in.

The options
------------
($130ish)
The cheap and easy fix. Ebay has new right side upper arms for about $100, and replace that lower joint I broke for about $30. Clean the left side joints but don't remove the ball joints from the wheel hub. Downside if i ever break another upper ball joint have to replace another arm, and potential pulling on one side due new joint on one side and not the other.

($280ish)
Middle of the road and maybe the smartest of the three. Replace both upper a arm with after market (found set on ebay 220) and this way the upper joints are now replaceable. Then replace the left side lower ball joint as well as the right for about $60. This option I will be able to replace all joints at will in the future easily and cheaply (lot less headaches always a plus), also no worries with the new shocks that are in the mail, everything bolts right up but still have to mod the lower arms which I was going to do anyways before this all happened.

($575-600ish)
I go for broke get +2 A arm kit and 2" spacers for the rear.
**I need to know if +2 Arms will work with yfz 450 shocks on raptor 660**
The bike has factor swing arm
If those two things could work together how will it ride for the dunes?

I'm leaning in the middle at $280 a the moment because I'm not seeing a big enough upside to the +2 kit and I currently dont know if it will work or not. I need to make a choice very fast, like next day or two. A buddy is going to work on my valves and I need humpty dumpty back together again.

Any help/advice would be great!!
Thanks!!
I have a good upper I can sell ya for $50 shipped.
 
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