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HELP, Code 12 showing 700 won't start.

20593 Views 22 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  robhutch777
Hi Guys,

Some of you may remember, ever since I got my big 3 installed I have been having issues. First seemed to be the battery, then the regulator and now thought it was the stator. Here is exactly what the 700 was doing before I replaced the stator. Quad would run great with headlights on, turn them off and it would run very rough, poppin and spitting. Ran it that way for a while with headlights on but started noticing on nice easy trail rides the battery would lose charge ultimately requiring jump starts to get it running. I thought, ok time to replace the stator. Well I replaced the stator and while there put on the new regulator. Quad tried to start but would not run. Put old regulator back on without headlights turned on and it tried to run then stopped. Now the motor will turn without issue but will not even try to start and I have a code 12. I checked the stator connections and they are fine. I disconnected the battery over night and still no change. What the hell is going on??? I love the fuel injection but starting to wish I was running old school carb again.

Please help me figure this out so I can ride and enjoy this beast!!
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Where even is the crank position sensor on a raptor?


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#12 is a very broad code that covers a lot of things. It's best to follow your manual for trouble shooting.
Any clue where I should look first? Ever heard of a similiar situation? I'm getting pretty frustrated with the electrical issue I'm having but don't really have the money to just drop it off at a shop to have them figure it out. I will download the manual and try to work through it but any help would be greatly appreciated.
My raptor threw a code 12 a while ago. Ended up being the bolt that held the wire to the relay near the battery rattled loose. Replaced the bolt and it was good as new


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Have you tried to run the bike without your fuel controller? Pull it off and give it a shot, just don't run it long.
Do you have spark, compression and fuel?? Take your AM fuel controller out and try. Use a charged jumper battery. I would look at the wire harness. Pull each connector and look for recessed pins. Remove and install each connector a few times. This will clean each pin some, add dielectric during the final assembly. Check the wire harness for rubbing wear on the frame, especially the main harness. Is there someone you can swap parts with? I would try the ECU.
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Ok awesome, thanks for all the items to try. This gives me a direction instead of shooting in the dark. Right now my head is kinda spinning, I am very mechanical but not so much electrical lol. I will try all of the above later and let you guys know how I make out.
Well spent some time on it last night and made no headway. Couldn't find a loose bolt, no change when removing the PCV and connections were checked. I either have a bad OHM meter or don't know how to use it lol cause I could not get OHM readings. Battery tested good volts wise. I do not have spark but after reading some I think that is due to the code 12. Some people say when you get a code 12 it shuts the quad down not allowing it to start. I guess next step is getting a buddy that has a good OHM meter and knows how to use it take a look at things.
Yeah if I remember right when I had the code 12 it wouldn't even allow the quad to crank, much less spark


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Ok update and additional advice needed!

I spend hours with an electrician friend with a real meter. We found wires all check out, stator & crank sensor check out, regulator/rectifier checked out, coil checked out and have power & ground to the ECU. Went to a dealer Extreme Machines today to have a scanner hooked to the quad and their scanner could not connect. They stated that either it was because the hood/display wasn't connected or the ECU is bad. I don't think the hood/display being unhooked could cause their scanner not to connect, so I'm thinking the ECU is shot. What do you guys think? Any advice is much appreciated!!!!
Have you,,, tried a new plug, checked all conectors for corrosion, keep battery on a trickle/float charger, jump to a auto battery, use dielectric on all connections?
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Yeah tried all of the above, no luck at all. This is killing me lol. Would love to try an ECU swap but don't know anyone locally in NJ who has a raptor.

What are your thoughts on OEM versus aftermarket like Procom? What do you think of a used ECU on ebay?
Have you checked all wires going into the ECU? I had a orange/brown striped wire that would pull out just a little bit causing the same symptoms you are describing. Pull the plug on the ECU and coat the inside with di electric grease as well.
Yeah tried all of the above, no luck at all. This is killing me lol. Would love to try an ECU swap but don't know anyone locally in NJ who has a raptor.


I believe I have a spare ECU. It's not for sale, but, if you pay shipping and a deposit, I'll send it for you to try, then send it back. PM me your address if that works for you.
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I believe I have a spare ECU. It's not for sale, but, if you pay shipping and a deposit, I'll send it for you to try, then send it back. PM me your address if that works for you.
Thats a real safe bet there. Beats buying a new one only to find out that was not your problem. Way to go Dez!

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I believe I have a spare ECU. It's not for sale, but, if you pay shipping and a deposit, I'll send it for you to try, then send it back. PM me your address if that works for you.
No response from TP, this offer is still good.
Hi Dez, sorry for the delay. I appreciate that offer, its very generous and greatly appreciated but I'm going to give the ECU connector one last look and if good as I believe I am going to bite the bullet and buy the new ECU. I'm getting tired of playing games and based on everything my electrician buddy and I did, it pretty much has to be the ECU. I know famous last words lol!

Seems like most posts I have read say to stick with OEM ECU's. The Procoms seem to have some issues. Is that what you guys have heard as well?
You won't gain anything by going to the procom. So I'd just stick with OEM
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