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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a raptor 700 and the handling is kinda sketchy.i think it's because the suspension is setup for the previous owners weight and preferences.it has Elka shocks how do I adjust these to my weight?also mine is long travel front end and I read the procedure is different for long travel.
 

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Do you know roughly how much weight difference there is between you and the previous owner?
Elka's are built to order for rider weight(plus weight of any gear).
So if the PO was 250 and you're 125...that doesn't work.
I don't know what the weight range is for Elka's valving and springs, but I'm guessing a 20lb-30lb range, then respring or revalve.
You need to contact Elka as they should be able to tell you what you have.
If you have long travel; are you a dune rider?
Did it just happen to have long travel, but you trail ride?
Alot goes into a setup.
After that, Suspension Sag is what you need to read up on, as that is how Compression, Rebound, and Preload are adjusted per rider, and fine tuned for conditions.
Do you have any pictures of your 700 and it's suspension?
What you have now can most likely be adjusted and improved alot.
 

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Elka will recommend a starting point.
I would say, 5 threads visible above the top lock ring for Preload(you'll need 2 spanner wrenches for those).
8-10 turns counter clockwise(from fully right) for Compression.
18-20 turns cc for Rebound.
This would be a ballpark starting point.
Adjust only one of the 3 at a time.
Go big too, 5-6 turns either direction on Compression or Rebound.
That will really screw it up, lol...but you will see that it's too much or too little, and know which direction to go, making half turn adjustments.
The adjustments are as they sound.
Compression, is how soft or firm the shocks are as they compress.
Rebound is how quickly the shock returns/rebounds to it's laden position.
And Preload is preloading tension on the spring, as you are changing it's height by tightening or loosening the nut.
Ultimately, you want the suspension to compress smoothly, rebound quickly, without having a lazy or sloppy bounce after it rebounds, and let the suspension work under the machine, while transferring as little motion as possible to the frame.
Bounce the front or rear, make a big adjustment, and bounce it again.
Search for Dave Moss, sportbike suspension guru.
Even though he does sportbikes, the priciple and adjustments are the same.
An extra set of hands will be needed for measurements while You sit on it too.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Do you know roughly how much weight difference there is between you and the previous owner?
Elka's are built to order for rider weight(plus weight of any gear).
So if the PO was 250 and you're 125...that doesn't work.
I don't know what the weight range is for Elka's valving and springs, but I'm guessing a 20lb-30lb range, then respring or revalve.
You need to contact Elka as they should be able to tell you what you have.
If you have long travel; are you a dune rider?
Did it just happen to have long travel, but you trail ride?
Alot goes into a setup.
After that, Suspension Sag is what you need to read up on, as that is how Compression, Rebound, and Preload are adjusted per rider, and fine tuned for conditions.
Do you have any pictures of your 700 and it's suspension?
What you have now can most likely be adjusted and improved alot.
I'll take some pics real quik.i mostly ride desert and very little dune.it had long travel when I bought it.how do I post a pic on here?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Elka will recommend a starting point.
I would say, 5 threads visible above the top lock ring for Preload(you'll need 2 spanner wrenches for those).
8-10 turns counter clockwise(from fully right) for Compression.
18-20 turns cc for Rebound.
This would be a ballpark starting point.
Adjust only one of the 3 at a time.
Go big too, 5-6 turns either direction on Compression or Rebound.
That will really screw it up, lol...but you will see that it's too much or too little, and know which direction to go, making half turn adjustments.
The adjustments are as they sound.
Compression, is how soft or firm the shocks are as they compress.
Rebound is how quickly the shock returns/rebounds to it's laden position.
And Preload is preloading tension on the spring, as you are changing it's height by tightening or loosening the nut.
Ultimately, you want the suspension to compress smoothly, rebound quickly, without having a lazy or sloppy bounce after it rebounds, and let the suspension work under the machine, while transferring as little motion as possible to the frame.
Bounce the front or rear, make a big adjustment, and bounce it again.
Search for Dave Moss, sportbike suspension guru.
Even though he does sportbikes, the priciple and adjustments are the same.
An extra set of hands will be needed for measurements while You sit on it too.
And thank you so much for your time and explaining it a little more.i kinda understand it a bit more to do what you said
 

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It might look simple but it isn't. There is a lot of stuff going on and changing one setting can make a big difference. My advice is If you don't know much about suspension take it to someone who knows how to set it up for your weight, terrain and ride style.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If I don't learn now I'll never know.i understand what your saying but where I live there really isn't anyone who specializes in that stuff.tiny town.no offroading or motorcycle shops or anything.so I do what I can and if I can't ,I figure it out thanks for the advice
 

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And thank you so much for your time and explaining it a little more.i kinda understand it a bit more to do what you said
You're welcome
Suspension is Not hard either, that's a misconception. It can be challenging until the lightbulb comes on, or you have that "Aha" moment, but is simple once you get it.
Much respect for the attitude of learning to do it yourself too.
Because suspension is not set it and forget it. Understanding what's going on allows you to make small adjustments on the fly for the conditions.
It will take your riding to the next level.
Good luck to you with it, and come back if you have more questions.
 

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The big question is what you weigh. Then adjust from there.

Adjust sag first.

Then, play with rebound and compression.

Make notes of where you start, so you can always go back.
 

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Welcome to the forum, going back to your first post you mention the handling is sketchy. Can you describe those conditions the best you can?
 
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I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!
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A bud e-mailed this to me.

Remember compression adjustment is the one on top with the reservoir and rebound is on the bottom of the shock.


Finally !! The shocking story of how to "Tune your Suspension" !!!


Apr 1, 2000
By: ORC STAFF
ATV at Off-Road.com


Your probably just like most people. You go to your local dealer ,pick out your ATV, take it home and ride it. Did you know that you could and should adjust the comfort of that 4 wheeled beast by adjusting those shocks and thereby giving you the a more comforting ride that means you will be LESS fatigued at the end of the day ? HA ! I didn't think so !! Well here it is,The best advice around. Tune your Suspension . Don't know how ? Don't be afraid, we'll walk you through it,step by ahhhh,don't step there,that looks like something my dog threw up. First we'll teach you a few simple things about ATV shocks.
1) PRELOAD is when you adjust the length of the shock to match your body weight. The springs that you see on them controls PRELOAD.
2) COMPRESSION controls how easy or hard it is for the shock to squeeze together when you hit bumps.
3) REBOUND controls how fast the shock returns to its normal position after it has been compressed.
One note here, NOT all shocks on all ATVs have all these adjustments. Please consult you owners manual to determine which adjustments you can make.


Preload Adjustment
By turning the large nut at the bottom of the spring you can adjust the springs tension to suit your body weight. To properly make this adjustment you will need to .measure the "ride height sag"....
REAR SHOCK
1) lift the rear wheels up off the ground.
2) With the wheels off the ground, measure the distance from the top center of the rear axle to some point straight above it on the ATVs frame. Write this dimension down.
3) With all your riding gear on plop your butt on the seat with your feet on the pegs in your normal riding position. Then have somone measure the distance again in the same place as the first measurment. The difference between the 2 measurments is called the "ride height sag".
4) Adjust your preload so that your "ride height sag" is about 30% of your total suspension travel. Example: If you have 9" of total travel you should have about 3" of ride height sag.


FRONT SHOCK
Use the same procedure EXCEPT your "ride height sag" should be about 20% of your total shock travel.
Measuring with wheels off the ground

Measure again with full riding gear on

Compression Adjustment
Adjusting the compression of the shock determines how fast the shock "compresses" together. This adjustment should be made according to the type of riding you plan on doing. The real trick here is set the suspension at the point where you use all the travel of the shock without bottoming out hard .
With the setting too soft the suspension will feel "mushy" and you feel like it's "floating".
With the setting too hard, You'll feel every little bump you hit because the shock isn't absorbing the bumps like it should.
You can start by setting the compression at full soft. Ride the ATV for a short while .Then begin to ride over small bumps. Begin to adjust the shocks to absorb the bumps without feeling mushy. As you adjust the compression on the shocks, gradually begin moving up to bigger bumps and jumps. Every time you progress to larger jumps amd bumps readjust the shocks. Keep doing this untill you reach the point where you have reached YOUR personal limit of bumps or jumping safely while using all the travel in the shocks. (It's even ok if you allow the shocks to bottom out "slightly" as you land your largest jump)

Rebound
The rebound adjustment is the setting that determines how fast the shock returns to its normal position.
Setting the rebound at full soft allows the shock to return to full extension more quickly. At this setting the ATV may begin to experience a pogo effect. As the rider speeds over bumps, a shock that returns too quickly may rebound right back up and smack you right in the Butt,sending you right over the handle bars.
Setting the rebound at full hard slows the return of the shock to it's normal position. At this setting as a rider speeds over bumps the shocks may not return to position fast enough causing the shocks "pack up". The more the shocks "pack up" The less travel they have untill they have a chance to return to their normal position.
The best way to set the rebound on your shocks is to find a set of"whoops". A series of rolling hills two feet high and six feet apart.
With the setting at full soft, ride through the whoops at a slow pace at first . Then each time you ride through the whoops go through a little faster adjusting the rebound untill you reach your fastest comfortable speed and the ATV is returning to its correct position without bucking you off.

It's not brain surgery
The MOST important thing to remember is...........ONLY MAKE ONE CHANGE AT A TIME !!!!! Doing one change at a time will allow you to get a better feel for how your suspension is responding to the changes. Making more than one change at a time will just confuse you because you won't know which change made a desired or undesired effect. Tuning in your suspension to suit your needs will make you a much happier camper.
what is the free and rider sag suppost to be front and rear? I have read several different things on google and most are something different. A couple say 30% in rear and 20% in front? 10% free sag front and rear?
Check these out. ^^^
 

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Compression is on the top,
Rebound is on the bottom...on the 700, but not a true statement in general, and can be misleading.
As either can be in either position.
So pay close attention to the individual shock, and/or the service manual.
Many machines have C on top, R on bottom on the front, but the rear will be the opposite, or vice versa.
The OP also got the machine with Elkas not built for them specifically.
So they need to find out exactly what setup they have from Elka first.
Then they will know if they need a respring and/or revalve, or if what they already have works for their weight or not.
 

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Also, what you are really trying to do is break the shock down into 3 thirds.
The suspension should sag 1/3 with you on it.
The middle third is where the suspension should be doing most of it's work.
And the top third would be considered your over rev, as in it is only needed for big stuff, landing a jump, or hitting a deep pothole.

Make sure the chain slack is in spec too. Because if it is too tight(aside from excess wear on the drivetrain), it limits the travel of the rear suspension. Which prevents it from operating correctly or being set correctly...as well as screwing up the front, even if the front is set correctly. As the front and rear work together, and directly effect one another.
 

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I see you have some shocks on the floor. Are those original from the bike came as extras?

You may also want to check camber and tow -in.

Toe in is easy to check with a tape measure. With a helper, hook the tape measure on the center of one rear tire, one tire knob, and measure across to another knob on the opposite tire. Take the same measurement from similar knobs on the front tires. The front should be about 1/8 - 1/4 inch less then the rear.

For camber, you'll need something with a 90* angle. A builders square works best but anything with a 90* works. Lay it on the floor and against the center of the front wheel/tire. Both tires should lean out at the top, about 1/8 - 1/4 inch, the same on each side.
 
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