Here's how I did my stock extension, +2 was the perfect trail length.
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Help me with a little project
I'm trying to devize a way to lengthen my stock swingarm. It looks like it would be a pretty simple project considering the swinger is made of simple square tube. There is a spot on the swingarm that looks like a pretty good candidate for a cut because it's far enough from other welds and bolts and is free from obstructions.
There are two options I am considering.
Option A (the more expensive option): get a used swingarm, then cut both swingarms so that when one piece from either swinger is put together it is 1 1/4" longer. That makes for one joint and a clean setup.
Option B (cheaper, but 2 welds instead of one): This option involves me buying two 1 1/4" long peices of sqaure tube to match the material of the swinger and then welding them into place in the middle of the swingarm.
I would like to go the cheaper route, but I've always been one to shy away from a lot of welding on a high stress part.
Also, would I need to modify the little shock swing arm or the shock bracket to compensate for all this?
Thoughts?
There are two options I am considering.
Option A (the more expensive option): get a used swingarm, then cut both swingarms so that when one piece from either swinger is put together it is 1 1/4" longer. That makes for one joint and a clean setup.
Option B (cheaper, but 2 welds instead of one): This option involves me buying two 1 1/4" long peices of sqaure tube to match the material of the swinger and then welding them into place in the middle of the swingarm.
I would like to go the cheaper route, but I've always been one to shy away from a lot of welding on a high stress part.
Also, would I need to modify the little shock swing arm or the shock bracket to compensate for all this?
Thoughts?
1 - 20 of 45 Posts
Damn, that's better than my ideas! Thanks maddog you kickass.
Can I still use a stock shock with +2? Also, did you modify your shock linkeage?
Can I still use a stock shock with +2? Also, did you modify your shock linkeage?
I used a stock shock with stock linkage, I just cranked up the preload and adjusted the compression and rebound to account for the increased leverage. I think if the swingarm had been a +4 I wouldn't have gotten away with it and needed a revalve or respring.
Let's make sure I've got this right: you cut the swingarm just ahead of the carrier housing right? What did you use to fill the gap?
The reason I was thinking about cutting the runners next to the shock is because it would make the quad sit lower. But your method is much simpler... but I'm trying to figure out how to safely make the back of my quad sit lower... I think I may fabricate my own lower shock bracket or something.
The reason I was thinking about cutting the runners next to the shock is because it would make the quad sit lower. But your method is much simpler... but I'm trying to figure out how to safely make the back of my quad sit lower... I think I may fabricate my own lower shock bracket or something.
Yes I had the carrier cut from the swinger body and a piece of aluminum welded in between. A friend of the family did the work in his shop per my specs.
As for the linkage it can be flipped long ways (front and rear mount points are the same just upside down) and will be easier and probably safer than making your own. You just need to be mindful of the fact that the linkage can bottom out on the swingarm just in front of the rearward most mount if getting big air with improper shock settings.
As for the linkage it can be flipped long ways (front and rear mount points are the same just upside down) and will be easier and probably safer than making your own. You just need to be mindful of the fact that the linkage can bottom out on the swingarm just in front of the rearward most mount if getting big air with improper shock settings.
Man, Im glad someone else has done that to their stock swingarm cause I was going to do the same thing to mine, and didnt want to pay all that damn money. You say that +2 is the best route to go? Thanks for the pic and info man!
Ive been modding my rappy little by little and it is getting to be more and more a pain in the ass to ride up hillclimbs without wheelie. Ive even had more experienced riders tell me that my quad is a bitch to ride up hills...lol
Ive been modding my rappy little by little and it is getting to be more and more a pain in the ass to ride up hillclimbs without wheelie. Ive even had more experienced riders tell me that my quad is a bitch to ride up hills...lol
Can you still use regular skid plates when you cut and paste the swinger maddog?
I filled in all the oem mounts, so I couldn't. If I remember correctly it might be possible to leave the oem rear mounts intact and simply re-tap the fronts using the now shifted rear mounts as a guide.pewterpecker said:Can you still use regular skid plates when you cut and paste the swinger maddog?
Hey Maddog- is the metal thick on the swingarm? Reason I ask is can it be welded with a stick welder? Also-what kind of aluminum did you buy to do the extension, what were the dimensions and how much was it? Thanks in advance!
I had a friend at a local machine shop do it up for me, I don't have the details or any in depth knowledge of the process.
I think it cost me around 200-250 bucks.
I think it cost me around 200-250 bucks.
you can buy a used Lonestar +2 for $300 on ebay.......go that route and get rid of the junky oem setup. Adjusting the chain is much easier as well. I picked up a +2 Lonestar swingarm and Lonestar single row bearing carrier with sidewinder chain all in near new condition for $400 on ebay about 9 months ago.....deal of the century I thought.....and there are more out there.....looks better than stock as well....wasn't lighter though which was disapointing....
Max
Max
Im on a tight budget-especially this time of year with the wife and kids to think about christmas being right around the corner 
All Im going to be out is the cost of the aluminum. The fabrication and welding portion is being done for free. Thanks for the help.
All Im going to be out is the cost of the aluminum. The fabrication and welding portion is being done for free. Thanks for the help.I finally got my swingarm back. +2, $80 total. :thumbsup:
Where did you get it done that cheap? I want to do the same myself. I nearly flipped mine backwords on a steep trail 2 weeks ago.pewterpecker said:I finally got my swingarm back. +2, $80 total. :thumbsup:
nice...$80 is a great price for the ride improvement you're going to experience.
Im in the process of having this done (+2 stocker), and will take pics and have info for those interested. The aluminum involved is going to cost me around 45 bucks shipped.
Maddog56 said:I think if the swingarm had been a +4 I wouldn't have gotten away with it and needed a revalve or respring.
I'm using a +4.5" JTM extension on mine with the stock rear shock. Works fine, even with my 250 lbs of fat arse on it.
First thing you need to do is find yourself a good welding shop or a machine shop that has a good bandsaw, this will make re-allignment alot easier. Please never ever try welding aluminum with a stick welder!!!! whatever the person is telling you thats selling the rod's it just dosn't work very well. You would be best with a tig welded repair. I am a welder by trade but new to the sport quad scene, I am ordering chromoly tubing and looking into making myself some a-arms at a fraction of the price!! we'll see. :thumbsup:
I agree, the JTM is the best bang for the buck. I have a +6 full swinger that I use during drag season but I use the JTM extension for trail riding when drag season ends.RAPTORAZ said:Maddog56 said:I think if the swingarm had been a +4 I wouldn't have gotten away with it and needed a revalve or respring.
I'm using a +4.5" JTM extension on mine with the stock rear shock. Works fine, even with my 250 lbs of fat arse on it.
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