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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 05 660 That I recently picked up. It runs perfect and has low miles. The guy started it pulled it out of the garage with no problems. Went to start it and ride it and it would not do anything off the button. We crossed it over and it ran perfect. I rode it like that for over a week waiting on a new solenoid because I thought that was the problem. When the solenoid came in i crosses it over started rite up soon as I bumped it rode it out of the barn to
the house where I changed the solenoids out which is a simple task and it still would not start off the button. Only now when I cross it over it runs about 5 seconds and dies. I can throw the gas to it and it takes it just fine until it does it want run over 5-10 seconds at the longest no matter what. Fuel delivery is fine it’s a carb model they look like new. So I stuck the old solenoid back on and still the same thing. Has anyone ever had this problem? Can someone please help me?
 

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Master of the Electron
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Welcome to the forum!

I hope you have (or can borrow) a voltmeter, because we're going to have to make some measurements.

First, I suggest you download the service manual (free, in the stickies at top of the 660 Maintenance section). The last page is the wiring diagram. Use it to follow and understand what we're doing.

OK - to get the starter to turn over you need a few things to happen:

(All measurements are taken with meter set to DC voltage, if not auto DC then 20VDC, black probe on battery minus, red probe takes measurement)

1) in neutral - is your green neutral light lit? This also proves that the key switch is on and that voltage is getting to at least some of the electrics.

2) with meter probe on the solenoid's positive battery cable connection (where the cable from battery + is bolted to solenoid) is there ~12V here? Now press the start button - is there STILL ~12V here - should be. If voltage drops below 10V or so, the battery, cable or cable connection/s are bad.

3) does the red/black wire at the CDI have ~12V on it? Now press the start button - still has ~12V on it? It should. You can take a straight pin and pierce the insulation around the wire - make sure the pin is into and through the copper strands, then put your meter probe on the pin.

4) Use the pin again. Does the yellow black wire at the solenoid have 12V on it?

5) Does the yellow/black STAY at around 12V when you press the start button? It should. IF not we can deal with it, but need to know.

6) While you're pressing the start button does the red overtemp light illuminate?

7) Use pin again - Does the blue/black wire at the solenoid have ~12V on it UNTIL you press the start button, then it goes to low V (0-1V or so) while pressing the start button?


Most likely, your tests will fail somewhere between 1 and 7. Let us know the results.

ALSO - you may, at some point think "Ahaaa, if I jump 12V to the yellow black at the solenoid, all will work!"... DON'T DO IT! If the yellow black is still connected to the CDI when you jump 12V to this wire, you will damage a transistor inside the CDI!

Let us know what you find and good luck. We'll deal with the 5 second issue after you get the starter working.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks so much for your help. I worked late today but I’m off the weekend so I will check everything out and get back to you soon. I really appreciate your help. I can go ahead and tell jo lights on the display work. The temp hand would light when hitting the start button before I changed the solenoid but it does not come on at all now. I will check everything out and get back to you. Thanks again for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No lights come on. No neutral light or temp light at all. The positive cable reads 12.44 and did not change when I hit the start button. Red/black on cdi reads 0. Yellow/black wire also reads 0. Yellow black on solenoid reads 0. Red over temp light never alluminates.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Im an idiot I’m retesting now. Those readings I just got were from the rectifier not the cdi. Im testing it now.
 

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I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!
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Did you check all your fuses, one on the solenoid (and one spare) and some back at the rear under the seat. Test the wires at the key switch per your diagram. I think you need 12 volts on one wire with the key off, then 12 volts on both wires with the key on. if that's good test your on/off switch.

WELCOME TO THE FORUM.
 

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Master of the Electron
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Agreed with Dez - check red wire from solenoid to key switch - if no 12V there, the fuse is blown, not installed correctly, or solenoid is bad (assuming you have 12V at the battery terminal lug on solenoid.)

There is only 1 operating fuse in the 660 (Dez has a 700) - there are two on the solenoid, but one is just a spare.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for your help fellas. I’ll check it out in the morning and get back to you. By the way I picked up another 05 cheap for parts. I switched the cdi, regulator/rectifier, and the solenoid again with no change. Thanks again for the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I’ve spend two days on message boards and researching. The starting and running for a few seconds seems to be unicorn. Lol It has definitely thrown me off.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So with the plug in unplugged from the solenoid I should have 12v on the connector for the red wire on the solenoid rite?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I guess I was sent a bad solenoid! I had no power to the red wire so when I ran a got to it the bike fired rite up off the button! Everything is perfect now I’m back rolling! Thanks fellas so much! The running 5 seconds and dying was really throwing me off.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Question now is will that work without burning something up or do I need a new one. Im not one to cobble stuff but I’d love to ride while a new is shipped. Lol
 

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Master of the Electron
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You won't kill anything if you've just jumped 12V to the red wire leading from solenoid to key switch... but you'll be without a fuse, so if something else were to short out down the line, you won't have fuse protection.

Unplug the fuse from the fuse holder... if you put the red meter lead into each slot that the fuse plugs into, do you see 12V in either? If not, the solenoid is definitely bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I will check it in the morning. Thank y’all so much. I love what y’all are doing with the site and all the effort y’all put into helping people. Some of us can’t afford the outrageous prices some of the dealerships charge and be able to have a place where people help each other solve their issues is priceless!
 

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THANKS for the update. It's always good to know if we help.
 
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