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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an 04 that has a noise in the top end that sounds like a valve lash issue all of a sudd
en. I set the valve lash .15 mm intake .20 mm exhaust lastnight and the noise is still present. Does anyone have any ideas what else I can look at?
The noise seems to be coming from the right side of the engine.
 

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Did you set the valve lash with the piston at TDC. I would set you valve lash in the middle of the spec - .175mm intake, .225mm exhaust since they will tighten up over time. If your valve lash is correct, then this noise could be timing chain noise (stretched chain that needs replacement) or something busted in your topend, did you look at your valve springs/rockers when you were adjusting your valves?
 

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Check your timming chain..It may be at it's limit's & causing a the noise...
 

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Master of the Electron
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If it sounds like valve lash noise, but clearance is set correctly, pull the center bolt and spring from the timing chain tensioner, then pull the tensioner body and see if it's near the end of its travel - if so, the chain is stretched too far and needs replacement. It's bouncing around in the case and making the noise you hear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Took me a couple days but finally made it back out to the garage to work on the Raptor. I rechecked the valve lash, witch check ok again. I removed the timing chain tensioner and the plunger is out all the way, so i will be replacing the chain.
I just wanted to say thank you for the information and help, it could of ended up a real mess if it jumped or broke, so thanks again to all of you and the forum for your help.

P.S. I will be sure to let you know if the new chain took care of the noise issue.
 

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Master of the Electron
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It sure took care of mine! Hope yours is the same.

BTW, you DID pull the center bolt and spring first, right? Else, when you pull the tensioner, the spring will push it all the way out and the test is moot.
 

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Took me a couple days but finally made it back out to the garage to work on the Raptor. I rechecked the valve lash, witch check ok again. I removed the timing chain tensioner and the plunger is out all the way, so i will be replacing the chain.
I just wanted to say thank you for the information and help, it could of ended up a real mess if it jumped or broke, so thanks again to all of you and the forum for your help.

P.S. I will be sure to let you know if the new chain took care of the noise issue.
It sure took care of mine! Hope yours is the same.

BTW, you DID pull the center bolt and spring first, right? Else, when you pull the tensioner, the spring will push it all the way out and the test is moot.
As Quad said, make sure you pull the bolt and spring from the tensioner first.............
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I got the new chain in the mail today, so i will be installing it tonight. I have the engine torn down ready for the new chain.

I did like you said on the tensioner and pulled the bolt and spring first. The tensioner was all the way out and after removing the chain I am surprised it didn't jump a tooth. The chain is stretched a lot.

I replaced the clutch last night and removed the old timing chain, so after tonight I should have it back together and running.

Thanks again Heathen
 

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Master of the Electron
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Good luck and look forward to that smile when you start it up and it's QUIET!

BTW, just a warning - I replaced mine a few months ago, and was in a real hurry to listen and verify that the noise was gone... so when I was 'done', I cranked her up... and CRAP - the same damn noise, maybe worse! ! ! Shut it down in a hurry.

So I look down and see the tensioner STILL in the box on the floor. Man, did I turn red. Three minutes later, the tensioner was properly installed and she was purring like a kitten... Thank goodness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yep big smile on my face now, I put the new timing chain in the other night and all is good. Thanks to all the information from you guys it all went together smoothly.

I did ride it around the block once or ten times (LOL), and what a big difference all the upgrades have made, it runs great and don't look to bad either.

I do have one question, what are the (fly weights?) on the Cam gear for, how do they work?

Thanks again for all your help, I appreciate it.

NEW: KnN filter, DG pipe, DynoJet jet kit, 12 tooth sprocket, Drive chain, Timing chain, Clutch, Nerf bars, New Razors tires front and rear, 2 New/Used front rims, Front brake pads, DR. D reverse thumb lever (Did away with the reverse rev limiter), relocated the warning lights and key to the fenders, Vinyl Graphics (on my plotter), GTYR shock covers, U/M Front bumper,
Skid plates (Frame, A-arms, Swing arm)
 

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Yep big smile on my face now, I put the new timing chain in the other night and all is good. Thanks to all the information from you guys it all went together smoothly.

I did ride it around the block once or ten times (LOL), and what a big difference all the upgrades have made, it runs great and don't look to bad either.

I do have one question, what are the (fly weights?) on the Cam gear for, how do they work?

Thanks again for all your help, I appreciate it.

NEW: KnN filter, DG pipe, DynoJet jet kit, 12 tooth sprocket, Drive chain, Timing chain, Clutch, Nerf bars, New Razors tires front and rear, 2 New/Used front rims, Front brake pads, DR. D reverse thumb lever (Did away with the reverse rev limiter), relocated the warning lights and key to the fenders, Vinyl Graphics (on my plotter), GTYR shock covers, U/M Front bumper,
Skid plates (Frame, A-arms, Swing arm)
Flyweights control the decompressor, they must be properly engaged into the center spool in the camshaft...............
 
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