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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I started thinking the other day and I was really wondering how a stage 1 hotcam would perform in my bike? I know alot of guys mostly go the piston and cam route but I don't want a high compression piston. Thats when it starts taking the fun out of it. They become a headache and you have to run high octane in them or race fuel...etc and I don't race the thing so I don't want to pay $7-9/ gallon or whatever its up to. Then on top of that it makes it harder to start and I'm sure the starting system will wear out faster as a result of this. They already have a starter clutch issue. So I have obviously decided against raising the compression. The main thing I am debating is how much low end torque will it lose and how much rev ability will it gain? Does it rev faster? I just wondered how many of you guys run these with stock compression?

Thanks,
Adam
 

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You don't actually lose torque, at least it won't feel like it. It'll pull like a freight train off idle through the midrange but it kind of tops out early and doesn't have a whole lot of top end power to get the revs up. It'll rev faster, it just won't rev much higher.
 

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ok, hers a question, a stage 2 gives you more top end while a stage 1 is more torque, wouldnt an increase in torque also increase the top end??? and will you lose topend with a stage 1 or what??? wouldnt you want more torque to pull hills in a higher gear and whatnot??
 

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bennyboyraptor said:
ok, hers a question, a stage 2 gives you more top end while a stage 1 is more torque, wouldnt an increase in torque also increase the top end??? and will you lose topend with a stage 1 or what??? wouldnt you want more torque to pull hills in a higher gear and whatnot??
You need straightened out on your torque and hp bro-
http://www.v8914.com/Horsepower-v-torque.htm
 

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thanks, i was just never sure
 

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I'm running the Stage 1 and stock compression and I really like it. Of course I want more, but it's a nice first step. I don't feel like I lost power anywhere, and I definitely gained some midrange.
 

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so does it pull harder up hillz now??
 

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russ said:
I'm running the Stage 1 and stock compression and I really like it. Of course I want more, but it's a nice first step. I don't feel like I lost power anywhere, and I definitely gained some midrange.
How hard was the install? Tempting if it can be done with minimal tear down.
 

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gobeer net said:
russ said:
I'm running the Stage 1 and stock compression and I really like it. Of course I want more, but it's a nice first step. I don't feel like I lost power anywhere, and I definitely gained some midrange.
How hard was the install? Tempting if it can be done with minimal tear down.
Basically as soon as you get down to the head it's a matter of removing it, removing the cam gear, pulling the old cam and swapping the decomp mechanism into the new cam. Install the new cam, reattach the cam gear being mindful of the old cam's orientation with respect to the gear and checking the timing. Then yama-bond the head back on, adjust the valves and put everything back together. There might be a small step here or there I left out but this isn't intended to be a tutorial, just a rough idea.
 

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Mad Dog Beyond Thunderdome said:
gobeer net said:
russ said:
I'm running the Stage 1 and stock compression and I really like it. Of course I want more, but it's a nice first step. I don't feel like I lost power anywhere, and I definitely gained some midrange.
How hard was the install? Tempting if it can be done with minimal tear down.
Basically as soon as you get down to the head it's a matter of removing it, removing the cam gear, pulling the old cam and swapping the decomp mechanism into the new cam. Install the new cam, reattach the cam gear being mindful of the old cam's orientation with respect to the gear and checking the timing. Then yama-bond the head back on, adjust the valves and put everything back together. There might be a small step here or there I left out but this isn't intended to be a tutorial, just a rough idea.
I'd definitely like to see the write up with some pics.

But to answer your question. I wouldn't rule out a piston upgrade. You can run an 11:1 piston and still run pump gas. Once you replace the one-way, you will probably never do it again, if you use the L&A one way. A stg 1 cam will help you, but if you want more out of it then go with stg2. When i finally start to tear into the engine, I am going to build a 727 with stg 2 hotcam.
 

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Back at the start of the board we used to have such a write-up. It was excellent, however it was a casualty of the huge data wipe that occurred not too long ago. I tried finding it the other day on the archive way-back machine but I was unsuccessful.

I've got a 105mm Ross sitting in a box, but I fear that time and money aren't going to allow that to happen for quite some time. :(
 

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Well, i'll patiently wait then...
 

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There truly isn't much more to it than what Mad Dog said. The only extra thing I would offer is that I didn't ever remove the cam gear from the chain. I unbolted it and wiggled the cam out and then carefully slid a very long screwdriver through the gear and rested it on the head. I was careful to not let the gear loose from the chain, I felt that I had a better chance of it not getting timed incorrectly that way. Also, when Mad Dog said head, he really should have said valve cover, the actual cylinder head does not need to come off for a Stage 1 cam (just don't want anyone to think it's a bigger job than it really is). That was the final factor for me, I decided that if the head had to come off, I was going 11:1 and Stage 2 and at least some mild porting. So to pull the head was going to cost me at least $300 more if I didn't need a bore and hone.

I'd say that if you have your crap together and you can set valves in an hour or two, you could do a Stage 1 in a day pretty easy, maybe in an afternoon. I always seem to take way too many breaks to get anything done very quickly though. :beer:
 

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russ said:
There truly isn't much more to it than what Mad Dog said. The only extra thing I would offer is that I didn't ever remove the cam gear from the chain. I unbolted it and wiggled the cam out and then carefully slid a very long screwdriver through the gear and rested it on the head. I was careful to not let the gear loose from the chain, I felt that I had a better chance of it not getting timed incorrectly that way. Also, when Mad Dog said head, he really should have said valve cover, the actual cylinder head does not need to come off for a Stage 1 cam (just don't want anyone to think it's a bigger job than it really is). That was the final factor for me, I decided that if the head had to come off, I was going 11:1 and Stage 2 and at least some mild porting. So to pull the head was going to cost me at least $300 more if I didn't need a bore and hone.

I'd say that if you have your crap together and you can set valves in an hour or two, you could do a Stage 1 in a day pretty easy, maybe in an afternoon. I always seem to take way too many breaks to get anything done very quickly though. :beer:
This is exactly what I needed to hear. stage 1 will be on the way soon if I decide to keep the raptor.
 

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russ said:
There truly isn't much more to it than what Mad Dog said. The only extra thing I would offer is that I didn't ever remove the cam gear from the chain. I unbolted it and wiggled the cam out and then carefully slid a very long screwdriver through the gear and rested it on the head. I was careful to not let the gear loose from the chain, I felt that I had a better chance of it not getting timed incorrectly that way. Also, when Mad Dog said head, he really should have said valve cover, the actual cylinder head does not need to come off for a Stage 1 cam (just don't want anyone to think it's a bigger job than it really is). That was the final factor for me, I decided that if the head had to come off, I was going 11:1 and Stage 2 and at least some mild porting. So to pull the head was going to cost me at least $300 more if I didn't need a bore and hone.

I'd say that if you have your crap together and you can set valves in an hour or two, you could do a Stage 1 in a day pretty easy, maybe in an afternoon. I always seem to take way too many breaks to get anything done very quickly though. :beer:
I can set my valve lash easily, but i don't even know what i would be removing, inserting and such without some pics. Just a few would make it pretty simple. When i do tear into the engine, it will be all of it (cam, piston, bore and hone, crank, valve springs, etc) at once. maybe even a 3-plug head from kenz. But, that is all way down the road, after my truck has tires, wheels, and a lift.
 

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Thanks for fixing that for me russ, I know that you knew what I was talking about when I mistakenly said "head" but it would've been extremely confusing for others. Teamwork is the best way to get things done! :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the replies fellas. So Mad Dog do you think its worth it? So in other words it will make it a little snappier and it will rev a little better through the range? Thats what I'm going for so I think when I get a little extra money I'll probably throw it in. Hey while everybody is paying attention to this thread does anybody know if those G-Force hubs are any good?

Adam
 

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When I threw mine in I was happy and noticed a difference. I was in the middle of ice racing season and it made me faster on the track.

Can't speak for the spacers but from what I've seen from users posting here they're a good part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks Mike
 

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I got the hubs and they work good, look real good to
 
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