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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has any one tried out those High flow stainless impelers? it says 50% more flow? (saw it on ebay) Any past experiances or opinions?
 

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never heard of it if any one does let us know
 

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sounds like it is after market water pump impeller, probably have the fins feathered out more to increase water volume through the radiator and engine. By doing that your increase the pressure inside the pump housing, hoses ect,.. could cause leaks if hoses aren't tight, gaskets aren't tight,.ect..no problems besides that I ever heard of.. Never heard of anyone that actually tested one to see if it actually dropped the temp of the motor by pushing coolant through it quicker...but I guess thats why I'm here as well, always good to learn more.
 

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true that it probley will but i cool just fine one thing that i thihnk is if it is going thru fast it wont cool as good
 

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I don't see the utility of it. By design, the only time it could do anything better than the stock impeller is if the thermostat was wide open, and thats not very ofter in a Raptor. Assuming it was wide open, would the new impellar move water to fast for it to soak up the heat from the motor, or to fast through the radiator for it to disappate that heat?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Make sense guys! ill just wait and get a bigger aluminum radiator and oil tank! Sometimes the cheap way becomes the more expensive on the long run! :thumbsup:Thanks for the info!!
 

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Mia Ruff-Ryder said:
Make sense guys! ill just wait and get a bigger aluminum radiator and oil tank! Sometimes the cheap way becomes the more expensive on the long run! :thumbsup:Thanks for the info!!
Doesn't seem like you should need those things on your raptor with that setup. Sure they'd keep it cooler, but I'd think your oem parts are doing their job quite well at this point. If they're not you may have other things to look into before plopping 400 dollars down on 2 new parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Doesn't seem like you should need those things on your raptor with that setup. Sure they'd keep it cooler, but I'd think your oem parts are doing their job quite well at this point. If they're not you may have other things to look into before plopping 400 dollars down on 2 new parts.

Around jan. or feb i should be digg`n in that motor! I liked my buddys set up. he had full head work stroker cam with a stock stroke, over sized valves and new valve springs aswell as high compression 102mm! He was pulling 2 &3 bikes on banshees and told me it`ll rev up 2to "11,500"?(is that possible?)i dont remember the igntion, he did tell me it was about $400. I really liked the ride when i drove it but this time i wanted 2 add a 4mm stroke! what do u guys think?
 

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11500 rpm ??, unless he's got a aftermarket speed bike (aka-crotch-rocket)motor, I highly doubt it.
 

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rt said:
11500 rpm ??, unless he's got a aftermarket speed bike motor, I highly doubt it.
The limiter may be that high, but the bike will never be within shouting distance of it let alone make any power there.

OEM limit is high enough for most bikes, and for the rest it's typically ok after 1st and 2nd gear.

400 bucks seems a little cheap for that setup. Here's how it breaks down:
Piston: 125
Cam: 140-250
Valves: 30-55 each (x5)
Valve Springs: 125-150

That's closer to 600, and that's without taking any machine work or mechanic time into the equation (assuming you can do it yourself). You'll also end up doing some valve work and replacing a handful of parts there. Assuming it's all done correctly and tuned properly, you still shouldn't need the radiator and oil tank to stay cool. Again not saying it won't help, but they shouldn't be a necessity.

With all that work, you'd really want to at least clean up the head (you'd be doing a valve job anyway).
 

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I think he was talking $400 for just the ignition.....still would never go there,....well maybe..that snowballs chance in hell..then it'll blow like a grenade. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
yea it was $400 for the ignition by it self. 11500 seem high to me aswell but i never said anything cause when it comes to racing mods the sky`s are the limit!But thanks for clearing that up for me guys! MADDOG so u dont think that with head work and high compression piston theres still no need for bigger radiator and oil tank? how about with the stroker? Honestly that seems great to me! MADDOG Thanks u just let me keep an extra $400 in my pocket :thumbsup: If i dont need it i definetly not going to spend it! :grin_nod:
 

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I've got no problem putting or cruising through trails, riding the dunes all day, or hill climbing in 90 degree + days with high humidity with the stock parts. The only reason I went with an aftermarket oil tank is because my oem one sprung a leak. I'm running an 11:1 100mm piston with a ported head and big cam and spend a good deal of time in the higher rpm ranges and at idle. Aside from a day when the cylinder came apart from the cases (headbolt gave way) I've never had my bike's temp light go on. It's not been a problem with any of the other raptors I've spent any time with, from stock to more modified than mine.

It's certainly possible the bike will run hotter than it did before the modifications, but if your fan and the rest of the cooling system is working properly and you've got enough coolant at the right ratio it's unlikely that you'll run into overheating problems unless you live in an area with routine extreme high temps. (ie desert or death valley) I'm guessing you're in Miami from your sn, these parts wouldn't hurt, but I still don't think you'll NEED them to avoid overheating issues.

Lean jetting and improper fuel octane are common causes of heat issues on modified machines. Improper installations of internal parts and extreme fluid levels also cause these problems.
 

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A properly built (meaning the clearances are spec) and tuned (meaning the A/F ratio is ~13:1) engine will run at the same temp as a stock engine and the stock cooling system will handle the requirements. My 6mil strokers run the stock radiator, fan and thermostate.

11,500? I assume that is what he TOLD you. I know of a few drag Raptors that turn 10,500 but it takes a very specific list of engine components to do it.

400 is high for a programmable dyna ignition, I sell them new for 250 but don't plan to put one on and add 5 or 6HP, they are usefull to alter the timing curves, rpm limits and activate electrical loads such as nitrous soleniods etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks maddogg for the info! :thumbsup: and coleshed i will keep u in mind cause im probally going to by my crank from u anyways! ;)
 

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Why are you saying you want a af ration of 13:1 that's running rich...the stechiometric ration for air to fuel is 14.7 to 1 for gasoline. 13:1 would be good insurance, make great power, and make the engine run cooler. But you can get more power out of 14.7 to 1, or running slightly leaner like 15:1, but i wouldn't recommend running very lean becuase you'll blow your piston apart and overheat your engine.
 

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I think stock raptors run good at a hair above 14.7:1, thats the stock setting, from the box there suppose to set them at. Add a good exhaust, and better filter, the flow changes a lot, I seen charts and dynos that prove that you get more power at the 12.5:1 to 13:1 a/f mix, not for every motor just the raptor in particular. I personally had my bike set to around 13:1 when all it had was a ct exhaust and intake, It ran awesome.
 

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Spaz_22 said:
Why are you saying you want a af ration of 13:1 that's running rich...the stechiometric ration for air to fuel is 14.7 to 1 for gasoline. 13:1 would be good insurance, make great power, and make the engine run cooler. But you can get more power out of 14.7 to 1, or running slightly leaner like 15:1, but i wouldn't recommend running very lean becuase you'll blow your piston apart and overheat your engine.
Please don't take this the wrong way, I'm not attempting to slam you here.

I'd be willing to bet a large sum of money that I have spent more time and money on a dyno with a Raptor than anyone else here, I have spent thousands of dollars testing different engine combos and go fast parts trying to scientifically find out what really makes power and what really just puts money in someone elses pockets.

You will see max power from a Raptor motor in the 13:1 range, some respond better to 12.8 and some respond better to 13.2 but regarless of the engine components/exhaust and carb combo, ALL Raptors motors I have tested begin to loose power above 13.2

NO Raptor builder that is making top-tier power will send a motor out the door above 13.5:1, call any of the shops making over 70HP to verify that statement or any dyno shop familiar with Raptor tuning.

I know of no dyno tuning facility that tries to tune to 14.7, the WINPEP software that most dynojet dynoes use has a red line drawn across it at 13:1, meaning that is what you are shooting for, above that is lean, below is rich.
 

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Hey man, thats cool, just be'n informative!! :thumbsup:
 
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