Raptor Forum banner
1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
04 raptor 660. 686 big bore with open airbox/k&n. Big guns slip on exhaust
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I originally thought this was a jetting issue because of the big bore/intake/exhaust mods but after going through jetting of 135-165 mains with no difference in the mid to top end I'm starting to think I have a different issue. Below is a link to clip I took of it. Mid to top of throttle is just acts like the revs hit a wall. I only get good acceleration up to 40%

Clip of issue
 

·
Master of the Electron
Joined
·
15,544 Posts
Did it ever run correctly for you? What have you done to it since?

What, exactly, ARE your mods? Are you running aftermarket needles?
 

·
Registered
04 raptor 660. 686 big bore with open airbox/k&n. Big guns slip on exhaust
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
It didn't run when I got it.
It has 686 big bore
Big gun slip on exhaust
K&n filter
Parking brake delete
Lid was cut, tried running with it like that, with cuts covered, and with no lid

Since I got it I have replaced
Timing chain (was stretched)
Head and base gaskets
Cleaned tank and peacock
New fuel filter
New fuel lines
Fresh fluids
Set proper valve clearance

I tried jetting it with stock needles
Started with the stock 22.5 pilots 140/145 mains 2.5 turns out middle clip
Went all the way up to 27.5 pilots and 165/170 mains
Still had the same issue
I have recently tried a set of after market needles I have with a more steady taper then the stocks. Not name brand just came with one of the rebuild kits. Currently going thru all the jet sizes once again to try it but so far still stumped. Have noticed it goes rich on the plug much lower on mains with the aftermarket.
You had replied to my post on jetting and based on my 5300 ft elevation and 100 deg weather you stated I was close with the 155/160 mains
 

·
Master of the Electron
Joined
·
15,544 Posts
Thanks for the detailed explanation.

Have you had the emulsion tubes out? Occasionally they get re-installed backwards with symptoms similar to yours - the bevel should be up towards the needle. If you find them backwards, fix it then go back to the suggested jetting.

BTW, if your snorkel is modded or missing you need to jet richer than stock (for your elevation)
 

·
Registered
04 raptor 660. 686 big bore with open airbox/k&n. Big guns slip on exhaust
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I did rebuild the carbs and replaced the emulsion tubes. I will check those later today when I get a chance.

As far as the snorkel I'm unsure which part your referring to. I should note my right side intake (carb 2) joint is kinda shredded at both ends. I get it on with the clamps but I'm sure its not air tight. I havent been able to find a replacement that isn't a month out yet. Also I dont have the lid on.
 

·
Master of the Electron
Joined
·
15,544 Posts
If you have a vacuum leak at the carb - intake manifold boots you will NEVER get it to run right. If the leak is at the air cleaner - carb side it's not as important. Spray carb cleaner spray or starting fluid around the boots with it idling - if idle speeds up you have a leak that needs to be fixed.

Don't know how you're currently jetted, but if it is jetted for lid, your mid/top will be screwed with lid off... testing must be as riding.
 

·
Registered
04 raptor 660. 686 big bore with open airbox/k&n. Big guns slip on exhaust
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the detailed explanation.

Have you had the emulsion tubes out? Occasionally they get re-installed backwards with symptoms similar to yours - the bevel should be up towards the needle. If you find them backwards, fix it then go back to the suggested jetting.

BTW, if your snorkel is modded or missing you need to jet richer than stock (for your elevation)

Which end is the bevel end?
I have it this way up
 

Attachments

·
Master of the Electron
Joined
·
15,544 Posts
I think you are showing the bevel, but It's been a long time... I'd need to see both sides.
 

·
Registered
04 raptor 660. 686 big bore with open airbox/k&n. Big guns slip on exhaust
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you have a vacuum leak at the carb - intake manifold boots you will NEVER get it to run right. If the leak is at the air cleaner - carb side it's not as important. Spray carb cleaner spray or starting fluid around the boots with it idling - if idle speeds up you have a leak that needs to be fixed.

Don't know how you're currently jetted, but if it is jetted for lid, your mid/top will be screwed with lid off... testing must be as riding.
I sprayed the intake boots from head to carb and had no changes in idle. The intake joint in referring to is the tube from carb to airbox on carb 2. Both ends are kinda shredded. I had a thought, the small tube that connects into the boot that goes to the diaphrams in the carb are not sealing very good either. Could this cause the needles not to fully lift?
 

·
Registered
04 raptor 660. 686 big bore with open airbox/k&n. Big guns slip on exhaust
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok so I wanted to report success! It turned out to be the Rev limiter. It dawned on me when I disconnected the reverse switch wire and DIDNT ground it and tried to run it the quad acted exactly the same. If it wasent the limiter I figured it would have gotten worse due to the limiter engaging. When I tried to pull the wire up and ground it on the battery it would just spark (maybe something in the wiring the PO did between the sensor and the cdi) so this caused me not peruse it farther. I decided to cut the green/white wire about 3 inches from the cdi and run a wire from the plug side to the negative terminal and BINGO she revs like a beast. I hope this helps others as they research their problem and I'll leave the videos up so they can compare symptoms.
I wanted to thank quad maniac for his responses in trying to figure this out.
 

·
Master of the Electron
Joined
·
15,544 Posts
Which rev limiter? Is your red stator wire disconnected? This is the only way the reverse RPM limit would be much above idle. The parking brake limiter is also very low RPM.

Good find!
 

·
Registered
04 raptor 660. 686 big bore with open airbox/k&n. Big guns slip on exhaust
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It was the reverse limiter since the wire I cut at the cdi box was green/white.
The cloth braided red wire coming from the stator is still plugged into the plastic connector so I'm not sure why I was able to go half throttle before it started hitting the limiter wall.
 

·
Master of the Electron
Joined
·
15,544 Posts
Strange, for sure. Do you have stock or aftermarket CDI? Stator?
 

·
Registered
04 raptor 660. 686 big bore with open airbox/k&n. Big guns slip on exhaust
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm pretty sure its a oem cdi box and I'm not 100% sure on the stator. You commented in my other thread about needing a ground to frame. Maybe that was why I was getting the limiter in the first place and why it let me go highet then idle?
 

·
Master of the Electron
Joined
·
15,544 Posts
Is possible - run a few wires from battery minus to frame and the black harness wire...

This is why multiple threads are discouraged - I don't make the connection. Of course, you will. These issues may be 100% related, but we can't tell.

In your video - is that the solenoid to the left of the battery? Can you take some close up pics please?
 

·
Registered
04 raptor 660. 686 big bore with open airbox/k&n. Big guns slip on exhaust
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The solenoid was to the right of the battery. The key that the PO wired in was to the left running just before the negative terminal. I wish I could eliminate it and put the key back up front but I'm unsure of how to go about fixing his wiring.

Last pic is of the key switch the PO wired in. Its a major pain to take the seat off every time to turn it off.
139177
139178
139179
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,032 Posts
Good god
 

·
Registered
04 raptor 660. 686 big bore with open airbox/k&n. Big guns slip on exhaust
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Lol yep. My thoughts as well. The PO did the switch like that. He also put the fan on a switch upfront instead of running off the sensor and put a relay of sorts where the key connector used to be.
 

·
Master of the Electron
Joined
·
15,544 Posts
There's no way to troubleshoot a cluster f*ck like this remotely... it's amazing you've got it running at all!

Do you have the factory manual downloaded free from here? You need to return this crap to semi stock... it is a total waste of everyone's time hunting down issues that could be electric or could be something else until you get your electrics in order. Use the manual's wiring diagram; return to stock.

You can use that switch, rewired, if you want but you'd be better off with a toggle from the auto parts store.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 38Fitters
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top