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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ive seen some complaints on the +4 stroker cranks any problems with the stock length hot rods crank? I am going to be doing an 11:1 weisco 686 stage 2 or maybe x4 cam with springs and valves. Also if you guys have any suggestions as far as the build goes feel free. Thanks again :beer:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
bike is being built for fast trail rides and hill climbs
 

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Anybody pushing HP out of these engines are the ones finding flaws? There are several makers of connecting rods, very few makers of cranks for small engine. search the forum there is literaly hundreds of threads and builds. All will point you in the direction of porting. There are several stoke stroke, and bore bikes that will give a 720 machine a run for its money if not built right.
 

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I guess it depends on the type of motor you want to build and how much you want to focus on upkeep and maintenance. The Stroker 720 motors will give you great torque and horsepower but you have the added expense of another crank and rod. Then you have the choice of Long rod (stock) 136.5mm stroker crank or the Barker short rod 134.5mm stroker crank. Both will give you a 720 at 102mm bore but the short rod allows for more shelf piston choices...we like choices but that stroke/rod ratio pushes harder on the cylinder walls wearing out the piston skirt and cylinder. The long rod (hot rods crank) has a better stroke/rod ratio but only one piston to choose from at 102mm, the JE 11:1; unless you find one of the custom 13.5:1 pistons at Kenz or loony's. For trails I love my 35mmFCR, 720 with the stage 2 cam and ported head with lightened valve springs. Don't get wild with the port and don't open up the throats for tight woods racing...not doing this will leave lots of horsepower on the table but provide you with a strong 720 that will beat up on most 450s and get around the woods quick with more torque than you can imagine. I run a 13:40 gear with ITP 20" rears and it's a screamer....the problem I have now after changing suspension and shocks and motor work and everything are the damb brakes! I have stock rear brakes and YFZ fronts and they still fade out fast in tight woods... the bike is a tank! good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks as long as there were no issues with stock stroke Hot Rod I was going to keep it at 686. I am trying to make it as reliable as possible, once its together I dont want to be digging into it that much which is why Im doing the crank now I dont want to throw a rod and flush my money down the shitter. I forgot to add in my first post that Im going to do a port as well. Thanks again for all the help!!

:beer:
 

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FYI Mike, I've had a hot rods stock stroke crank in my 660 since spring of 2005. Since then it's grown from a 660 to a 727 and still going strong.
 

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Thanks as long as there were no issues with stock stroke Hot Rod I was going to keep it at 686. I am trying to make it as reliable as possible, once its together I dont want to be digging into it that much which is why Im doing the crank now I dont want to throw a rod and flush my money down the shitter. I forgot to add in my first post that Im going to do a port as well. Thanks again for all the help!!

:beer:
I have never run a Hot Rod crank but have used their rods for years, the stock crank is indestructable, the crank I run now has blown out a counterbalancer and I reroded it, straightened it and it is still running 3 years later...............:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks again for all the help guys!! Looks like stock stoke with hot rod crank or I might just do the rod
 

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Thanks again for all the help guys!! Looks like stock stoke with hot rod crank or I might just do the rod
If you just buy the rod then have the crank balanced, trued and welded while it's apart. Good insurance for future 727 builds or 13.5:1 motors.
Tim Barker (Barker Performance) offers this service for an attractive fee and maybe even some others on here. He's doing my LTR450 crank and Carrillo rod this Fall.
 

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Tim has (or at least used to) his own rods and can throw one of those in as well. It's a bit lighter than the carillo and has been proven to be quite reliable though the HR and Carillos are certainly good parts as well. At one time Carillo was the only real option and they were put in all the big builds without issue. I don't think Tim is still making the Ti rods anymore though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Decisions decisions..... should I just do the damn +4 while I have it apart??
:eek:
 

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Get a +4 from Barker. I don't think you will regret it. I have a Hot rods +4 and have had a broken one but I hate the piston choices. You can get a 10.5:1 CP, A 11:1 JE or a custom one from Kenz, Barker(had none last month and refered me to Kenz) or Gesick could have got me one but didn't have any in stock but could have had one made up anyway I wanted but none were in stock. With the Barker you can use lots of pistons and buy them cheaper as my Stroker 13:1 was $250.
 

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Go for the +4 its a great choice
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Would I be able to run stock carbs with this set up or would I need to go up to some FCRs? Also piston suggestions would help alot as of now Im thinking of 11:1 JE because Im going with the +4 Barker but again Im pretty new to this so any help would be great thanks again!

:beer:
 

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I cant offer no help there. i started the motor with fcr's so i cant say.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well Im not really sure what would be best for the type of riding I do Im thinking a stage 2 cam would be good because of the low end and I do most of my riding in trails so I think the bottom end will help. As far as a port I was going to talk to a local guy to see what he recommends but am open to other suggestions. Also do you have any recommendations on where to get the parts and/or porting done?
 

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Well Im not really sure what would be best for the type of riding I do Im thinking a stage 2 cam would be good because of the low end and I do most of my riding in trails so I think the bottom end will help. As far as a port I was going to talk to a local guy to see what he recommends but am open to other suggestions. Also do you have any recommendations on where to get the parts and/or porting done?
Ok, If you're on a budget and If you're woods riding and you have buddies on 450s and it's always a race through the woods with them, then you want a bike that will run 100 hours without pulling the head and kick some 450 a$$ -Right? That's sort of what I do with my 720 on FCRs. I have 35 hours on this build and I may run one more season with it before I pull the jug and cylinder head but it's been great in the woods. The Crank and gaskets and piston will set you back between 550-650. Getting the jug bored and honed will set you back 100. You'll want something like a stage 2 cam if you want good pull out of corners in fast woods and you're on steep hills with technical sections; the cam and springs will set you back another 300. I'm assuming the head is in good shape and the valves will clean up. Use your stock carbs but as soon as you drum up $500 in your paypal account keep watching this site for a set of used 35mm FCRs (for tight woods, 39s if you want to drag race a lot)...it's the best kick in the pants you'll feel for your money.
I didn't add the cost of porting and polishing your head and you did mention that. Be sure the person knows what you plan on doing with the bike before dropping 300 on a port and polish. For what you plan on doing I'd just clean up the ports and match the intake to the runners and let it ride with the new stage 2 cam and springs...then spend the $300 on a +2 swing arm (suspension will help the 660 more in the woods than big horsepower). However, if you do a port I wouldn't cut the throats more than 80-85% for woods riding.
That's my advice for a good East Coast Woods bike. Good luck,
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks again for all the help. I spoke with the guys over at F.A.S.T Racing and I'm going to send him my head and cylinder. He said he has some serious 660 builds on stock crank/rod but I'm not sure if I want to risk it. I'm thinking of going with the megacycle x4 cam (his recommendation) with kibble white springs and valves. Piston is probably going to be a JE 11:1. Not going to do the FCR's quite yet but I do plan on it, every set I've seen on EBAY is 1000+ though. As far as suspension goes I just widened it with the JD Performance +2 arms, elkas in the front, and a durablue +4 axel. Haven't even had the chance to ride it yet bc I live in damn NO York. The swinger is definitely on the list as well. Thanks again :beer:
 
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