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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, what's up guys. I'm brand new here so I just wanted to say hey. Anyway, I bought my raptor in 04 as soon as they came out. It was my first quad, but now that I'm comfortable riding I'm looking for some more power. I was looking at the Hotrods stroker kit and I was wondering if anyone here has any experience with it. I searched the forums but I couldn't find anything. I've seen stuff about the powroll system, but the hotrods one looks like it would require less machine work, and it costs a few hundred less for everything. The only thing is, is you don't get quite as much displacement and compression out of it. Which would be fine with me because anything over 93 octane is hard to get around here. So far it's pretty stock, but I'm gonna do all the standard stuff along with the stroker kit. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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go with the hotrods kit
 

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I cant comment on the hotrods kit, but I could tell you what ever you need to know on the powroll kit. I done all the labor myself minus the machine work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I do have some questions about the powroll kit actually. Do you like the cam that is included? And, did you need a base spacer and cam chain? If so, where did you get those and how much where they?
Also, what is the carb kit? is it just new jets?
Thanks
 

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customyota said:
I do have some questions about the powroll kit actually. Do you like the cam that is included? And, did you need a base spacer and cam chain? If so, where did you get those and how much where they?
Also, what is the carb kit? is it just new jets?
Thanks
The cam question. I havent had any other cam install on this bike, so hard to say for sure. The engine has alot more top end then low end in it. Probley some of that is do to this cam, but the whole kit was done at the same.
I also got the larger SS valves, port and polished the head.
No base spacer and cam chain is required.
For my own info.... Why would you think one is required? The cam is a regrind. Same cam and cam sprocket used. The crank pin is modified, but the crank and the gear on the crank is the same. The distance isnt changed so i dont see why one would be required on any kit.
The carb question. First i cant stand carbs. I not used to tuening them and i hate to. I would much rather upload a map. So i cant anwser to many tech questions in this department, but I bought a edlebrock carb and put that on.

From powroll I only got the crank w/ rod, piston, cam, valves and springs.

I found they use a sleeve from LAsleeve.com (I didnt know this until it showed up in their packageing) witch is the local machine shop i use to do my machine work. In reality the only thing special in their kit was the crank. I could have got the sleeve from la sleeve cheaper. The piston i cuold have got there or online cheaper. Its a JE piston thats not hard to find. The cam i could have went with a webb. They are local to me also and i get a good deal on them. This was my first "KIT". I think next time ill make my own kit. Its not much to it and my machine shop makes sleeves most other shops and kits anyways. With the powroll kit i found i spent most of my money at the machine shop anyways.

I payed 650.00 to have the cylinder bored out bigger to fit the new sleeve. The have the sleeve bored and honed to fit the piston. You have to machine the case halfs to fit the larger diameter sleeve down into the bottom 2 case halfs. ( this requires you to remove all tranny gears and strip the case halfs completly bear and take them to the machine shop) Normally you can split the case halfs and only pull the crank out and pop in a new one. Leave everything else standing in place. Not this kit. You also have to file down the oil splash baffles ( I did that myself in secs, no biggy). I had LAsleeve port and polish my head, install larger SS valves. I also had them lighten the flywheel (an extra one I bought).
So 650 to P&P head and install larger valves, lighten flywheel, machine both case halfs and cylinder and take care of the sleeve.

I have way more into the bike then should have ever been done. I wouldnt do it again, But it is nice to for my girl thats only rode any quad 3 times to whoop on some other quads. This bike only had 3 rides on it before i had to do something. 2 times to the dirt and 1 once to the sand. After taking it out to the sand with my 700 and my buddies 700's the 350 was just in place position to return back the sand without some major mods. My whole goal after spending around 3'g on engine, intake exhaust, and a few other little things was to get around 40hp witch is what the 700's have. I was hoping it would hold its own with a stock 700 (which is what i have).

I havent dynoed it yet and i just finished braking it in, but its no 700 and even if it does hit the 40hp mark it has to be lacking alot of torque the 700 has.

I must say to the edlebrock carb starts much easier then the stock carb. Theres no choke and 2-3 pumps on the throttle and no matter how long its been sitting it fires up first time. I actually thought since it was a race carb it would have got harder to start, but no the case.

Hope this anwsers most of your questions. And i hope i didnt scare you way from modding the bike to much. Not that i dont like the 350 to be fast, but when i bought the 350 and the 700 at the same time (few months back), the OTD price was 2,000 difference. I thought she wouldnt need the power. Following 700's on a sand hill and not knowing how to ride very good (get speed before the hill and such) she needs even more power then a better rider to just try and keep up. In the next few years when I buy new bikes Ill always buy 2 of the big bikes. Im not going to save any money in the long run or have any benifit form haveing a small bike. When firends a family want to go ride, which bike do you think they want to ride? If they were all the same bike it would be much better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks. That actually answers all my questions and more.
The reason I asked about the base spacer and chain is because with the hotrods kit, if you don't use their piston, then you have to use a spacer to prevent the piston from contacting the cylinder head because the rod is too long. I guess you could also use a shorter rod, but I haven't found where I can get one. I wanted to use a different piston because they only offer one piston and it's only 84mm so I'll never be able to go any bigger than 396cc without basically starting from scratch. I guess I'll probably just stick with their stuff since it's supposed to be the easiest and this is the first time I've done any major engine mods. I've rebuilt a couple of auto engines so I'm not worried about being able to do it, but I don't think I'm ready to sink that much cash into it yet. I'm trying to keep it under 1500 with a cam, springs, and the machine work. So I think I'll skip the case bore, and use the smaller piston. Thanks for your help.
 
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