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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Installed Houser +2 regular travel A arms yesterday. Everything seemed to go together just fine until it came time to fine tune the camber. On one side there seems to be plenty of room left on the upper ball joint to adjust camber, but on the other side I'm all out of thread. At this point its at about 1 degree camber but I couldn't go any higher if I wanted to. Seems like the geometry is off to have wasted all of the threads on the upper ball joint like that. Slicast settings are both set to 0. Does this seem normal? Everything else seems correct and bike rides great but I'd like to throw another degree of camber in there.
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Installed Houser +2 regular travel A arms yesterday. Everything seemed to go together just fine until it came time to fine tune the camber. On one side there seems to be plenty of room left on the upper ball joint to adjust camber, but on the other side I'm all out of thread. At this point its at about 1 degree camber but I couldn't go any higher if I wanted to. Seems like the geometry is off to have wasted all of the threads on the upper ball joint like that. Slicast settings are both set to 0. Does this seem normal? Everything else seems correct and bike rides great but I'd like to throw another degree of camber in there. View attachment 141016 View attachment 141017
I recently installed the Houser +0.5” XC and noticed the same thing at first. I was about to reverse my front OEM wheels to rule out a warped wheel. Then I noticed my shocks weren’t quite at the same preload (measuring coil length). I adjusted them to the same preload and that made a difference on my camber. Now I have just about the same amount of ball joint thread showing on each side. To get about 1 degree camber I am almost out of thread on both sides. For woods riding I don’t think I need more but kind of sucks I am almost out of adjustment and can’t at least test more camber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I recently installed the Houser +0.5” XC and noticed the same thing at first. I was about to reverse my front OEM wheels to rule out a warped wheel. Then I noticed my shocks weren’t quite at the same preload (measuring coil length). I adjusted them to the same preload and that made a difference on my camber. Now I have just about the same amount of ball joint thread showing on each side. To get about 1 degree camber I am almost out of thread on both sides. For woods riding I don’t think I need more but kind of sucks I am almost out of adjustment and can’t at least test more camber.
I am waiting on Elka shocks to come in, so at the moment I'm still running stock shocks. I've messed with preload a little bit but it doesn't seem to be the issue. And it certainly hasn't made enough of a difference as to be able to put in more than 1 degree of negative camber. Right now I don't even have enough thread to adjust the castor while camber is around .7 degrees.

I've been emailing back and forth with Houser trying to figure out why this is happening. I'm close to asking them to send another set just to rule that out. I'll update as I figure out more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I should also note this is a 2020 with less than 50 hours on it. Never wrecked, flipped, no collisions, just trail ridden.
 

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Yes it’s almost like the upper a arm is a little too long... Or the bottom a arm is too short... I too cannot adjust castor without loosening both nuts due to being out of thread on the adjuster side. Let us know the outcome. I am wondering if I should contact Houser about mine although I am at least able to get 1 degree on both sides
 

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Yes it’s almost like the upper a arm is a little too long... Or the bottom a arm is too short... I too cannot adjust castor without loosening both nuts due to being out of thread on the adjuster side. Let us know the outcome. I am wondering if I should contact Houser about mine although I am at least able to get 1 degree on both sides
I bet you have upper a arms on wrong sides. Grease zerks should be on top and frontward. This should give you full castor and camber adjustments. The only way I figured this out was staring at houser website pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
According to the instructions the gusset should be on the rear. The houser guy has seen several pictures and said it’s correct. I dunno
 

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I just installed two sets of Houser a arms on my raptor 2020 and my friends raptor 2018. His was able to get to 2 degrees but not a lot of threads left. My raptor one side is maxed out and not even at 1 degree. The other side is maxed at 1.5 degrees.
I will be giving Rob a call tomorrow and see if he knows what’s going on.
Note these are both brand new sets that were waiting on lower ball joints from Italy. Maybe the lower ball joints are shorter and causing the top ball joint to run out of adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I just installed two sets of Houser a arms on my raptor 2020 and my friends raptor 2018. His was able to get to 2 degrees but not a lot of threads left. My raptor one side is maxed out and not even at 1 degree. The other side is maxed at 1.5 degrees.
I will be giving Rob a call tomorrow and see if he knows what’s going on.
Note these are both brand new sets that were waiting on lower ball joints from Italy. Maybe the lower ball joints are shorter and causing the top ball joint to run out of adjustment.
I had to wait on ball joints as well. Maybe something is up but it’s not right
 

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I had to wait on ball joints as well. Maybe something is up but it’s not right
I agree something is not right. Even if you can achieve your desired amount of camber, you shouldn’t have such little thread left that the slicast adjustment requires loosening both nuts. Kind of defeats the purpose and shouldn’t have to sacrifice on higher end a arms.
 
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