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Discussion Starter #1
This will only work if you have some sort of pressure first on the lever. If you have changed lines then get some pressure first the old fashion way. My way is to break the seal on the rezzy cap. Leave it on though. Pull the lever to the bar as far as possible and zip tie or small bungee to the bars while you sleep or go to work or both. Come home loosen the strap tighten up the cap and you're done. For the rear wedge a hammer or crowbar between the pedal and frame. This is reverse bleeding. It will get 100% of all the air out and fix your mushy brakes. No mess, no fluid needed, and you don't need two guys. It's that simple.. Turn your bars so no fluid will drip on your plastic before starting or put a rag on your plastic just in case.
 

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I don't get how this can work, but I'll try it next time I need to bleed my brakes. Isn't the "curcuit" closed when the lever is all the way in? I don't see what cracking open the top changes anything... or is the pressure in the closed system somehow forcing the air back up the plumbing and then releasing the lever lets the bubbles up?

*confused*
 

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i use the clear tube method and it gets the same results in about 5 minutes
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Air will escape where it's allowed. Doesn't matter where the opening is. The calipers are closed creating pressure from the bottom up to where the air can escape. When you have time on your side this gets 100% of all the air out. No mess, no pumping, no fluid needed or lost. You just need time. Brake bleeders work, but it takes fluid and can make a mess and you have to buy a bleeder. All you need is a screw driver, a rag just in case, and a zip tie and it's free free free. I learned this back in the day on my 86 GSXR1100 when my brakes weren't working like they should at the end of a 160mph straight away. Cured the problem.
 
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