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first off i want to say this thread is great. i will be installing a GYTR clutch in my buggy (raptor 660R engine) and the step-by-step is perfect for this first timer.
now....the questions. everything came apart slick as snot because my engine is in a buggy frame so i didn't have to worry about any obstructions but when i removed the screws, springs and cover this is what i was looking at (first pic). my clutch worked but was slipping because a dumbass (me) put the wrong oil in the case when i installed the engine.
looking at the first friction disc, it's in the wrong position!! it didn't damage anything as far as i can tell but how the hell did it get like that? secondly, look at the "notches on the first and second to last friction disc. only those two discs have that notch. if i am reading the post correctly those two discs with the notch are the two discs with the part number ending in 001 and go in the first position and second to last (going from outside in looking at the clutch)
** i should mention that when i bought the running quad the guy said he put an "aftermarket" clutch kit in it about a year prior **
 

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first off i want to say this thread is great. i will be installing a GYTR clutch in my buggy (raptor 660R engine) and the step-by-step is perfect for this first timer.
now....the questions. everything came apart slick as snot because my engine is in a buggy frame so i didn't have to worry about any obstructions but when i removed the screws, springs and cover this is what i was looking at (first pic). my clutch worked but was slipping because a dumbass (me) put the wrong oil in the case when i installed the engine.
looking at the first friction disc, it's in the wrong position!! it didn't damage anything as far as i can tell but how the hell did it get like that? secondly, look at the "notches on the first and second to last friction disc. only those two discs have that notch. if i am reading the post correctly those two discs with the notch are the two discs with the part number ending in 001 and go in the first position and second to last (going from outside in looking at the clutch)
** i should mention that when i bought the running quad the guy said he put an "aftermarket" clutch kit in it about a year prior **
No idea how that happened other then you did that on installation. The two special plates are the second you put in with a wavy washer around it the last one you put in because it fits over the pressure plate.
 

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Thank you sir. I didn't install this clutch the guy i bought the quad from did. I just don't know how the clutch even worked with that disc in there like that.
 

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Alright so I don't want to beat a dead horse but I'm still confused. I don't know if it cus I'm slow or just don't get it, but 2 questions what exactly needs to be done with the lever that goes into the case that the cable hooks to. Some say it need to come out, some say it doesn't, 1/2 in here, turn it clockwise, what needs to be done? That's part is fairly confusing. And #2 when adjusting the clutch after all said and done this free play you guys speak of, is it when the lever is all the way out and you have an 1/8 in of room where you pull the clutch lever in and nothing happens for 1/8 in then it has tension? Sorry if this is confusing but I am confused and I really don't want to burn up my new clutch or have any issues when I attempt this. First time working with quads... If you can't tell!
 

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Alright so I don't want to beat a dead horse but I'm still confused. I don't know if it cus I'm slow or just don't get it, but 2 questions what exactly needs to be done with the lever that goes into the case that the cable hooks to. Some say it need to come out, some say it doesn't, 1/2 in here, turn it clockwise, what needs to be done? That's part is fairly confusing. And #2 when adjusting the clutch after all said and done this free play you guys speak of, is it when the lever is all the way out and you have an 1/8 in of room where you pull the clutch lever in and nothing happens for 1/8 in then it has tension? Sorry if this is confusing but I am confused and I really don't want to burn up my new clutch or have any issues when I attempt this. First time working with quads... If you can't tell!
You remove the lever from the clutch shaft
Rotate the shaft clockwise till tight and reinstall the lever aligning the timing marks. This will set the lever to the clutch. As far as the free play. As long as the cable is slightly loose should be sufficient.
 

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When you say Freeplay though, do you mean how much you can move the lever on the bars before it moves the clutch lever on the case? Because I've got the cable on the handle bars screwed all the way inn, and there still is not much free play at the clutch lever. What is the free play there for?
 

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When you say Freeplay though, do you mean how much you can move the lever on the bars before it moves the clutch lever on the case? Because I've got the cable on the handle bars screwed all the way inn, and there still is not much free play at the clutch lever. What is the free play t there for?
If you have the lever at the case set up properly as I've told you. You can adjust the freeplay in the cable at both ends of the cable. It doesn't matter which end you use or if you use both ends to adjust the freeplay. As long as the cable is loose. When you squeeze the clutch handle you should be able to see an 1/16-1/8 inch of freeplay in the cable. This allows the clutch disconnect mechanism to relax in the clutch housing and the clutch to grab. If you don't have freeplay in the clutch cable the clutch can slip.
 

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Hey guys. I'm new to doing any kind of ATV maintainence and now I find myself having to practically reinstall everything behind and on my clutch cover...including the clutch cover. My entire clutch shredded into shrapnel but nothings locked up and I have flushed everything out. I have ordered the clutch basket, clutch cover, inner hub, pressure plate, clutch rings and springs. I can salvage the water pump and shift rod and a couple of other pieces. I have a few diagrams and videos on how to reinstall everything but I may need help so I'll post questions when I hit some bumps. I also have pics of all parts and inside clutch cover I'll add to my profile. If anyone has some input or tips please message me. Thanks and wish me luck.
 

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I think I'm going to be doing a clutch soon, adjusters are all out as far as they go and engagement is at the end of the lever. My questions, yes I've read this whole thread and got the gist of the ordeal in front of me, doesn't seem that bad. I appreciate all the contributing info. My question, I'd like something that is more than stock, will last and handle a romping. I also don't want retarded springs that I can't move my left hand the next day.
So I see the name Barnett's and Gytr tossed around what's the general thoughts on a good tough clutch pack, that will last?

thanks guys!
 

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getting ready to do this job this week. can somebody re-post the pictures....they only show an image shack icon that does not work when you click to view pictures. Thanks in advance
 

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I'm putting my clutch in tomorrow can someone please give me all the torque specs I'll need 2 put it back together thanks

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 

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Hello! did somebody knows how thick each new disk is? or how thick a bad one is? I got 2.8 mm in my 2006 raptor 700 and 3 mm in my 660 but both has been used.
 
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