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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I figured I would make a how to do the rear bearings and axle. I only took the pics after the everything was removed. To remove it just work backwards. I was installing a new lonestar axle and hubs so it's a little different than the oem one.
Tools socket set, hammer, bearing puller, big circlip plyers, allen wrenches, swear jar :lol:, channel locks, wrench set, and I'm sure there's a few more but I can't think of them right now.

The way I got the bearings out was with a screw driver and hammer. After fighting it and smaking my thumb a few times for a little bit I finally added some heat to the carrier and got it out far enough where the bearing puller would work. I heated it up a little more and after bending the puller a little bit they poped out.
After everything is removed clean up the carrier and get it ready for the bearings. I froze the bearing, heated up the carrier, and greased the area where the bearing when in to make it a little easier.


Flip it over and put the axle spacer/ sleeve in. I greased inside and out using a plumbing flux brush. It make it easier and alot cleaner than using your fingers.

I heated this side as well and greased the bearing socket area.

Then push the seals in

Flip it over the other side
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
There are 4 o rings that come with the new kit but I was only able to find 3 spots for them so I left the 4th one out. I had 2 big ones on the inside area and one around the brake holder. I greased the carrier and housing to make it easier sliding the carrier in.

Put the rear caliper braket on and pop the circlip on. I found this very difficult with standard circlip plyer. I had to fight with the circlip, circlip plyers a small screw driver to get it back on.


Then comes the axle. I already pushed the sproket hub on, insterted the sproket circlip and bolted the sproket on. Make sure you put the axle through the chain if you didn't remove it. I found this out the hard way when I had to take it back out to get the chain on.

Then side the brake hub on but add some grease to the splines. Dont forget the disk brake.

The Lonestar lock nut says to go 1/4 turn but for the oem nut they spec out 175 foot lbs on the torque. I added grease to the threads to the lock nut as well.

Then put the rear brake caliper, wheel hubs, and wheels back on and your set. Don't forget to recheck everything. The whole thing took me about 8 hours for my first time. It took me an hour or two before I realized that the seal was all one peice and you just pry it off with a screw driver.
I checked the bearing before I put them in and there wasn't much grease in them so I packed more grease in them. I used a small screw driver to get the seal out.
Just a little bit of grease.

No grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks. The only hard thing about it was fighting the bearings and the circlip for the brake. It's a pretty easy job besides that.
 

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The extra o-ring is with the PivotWorks kit.. haven't found a use for it either.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Ok thanks I got the All Balls bearings. I was thinking I did it right and left some out lol. I looked at the manual and it showed 4 rings, so I don't know I guess someone can count or it's just an extra even though it was a little big.
 

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I`m in the middle of doing mine now and I when you said took you about 8 hours for the first time it made me feel alot better as this is what im on track for or even more hahaha....I for sure have got more then one swear jar so far maybe 2-3 jars and about to start on a 4th one.....thanks for this post it will help me BIG TIME !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
lol thats good, I'm glad it helped. Are you doing the bearings too?
 

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I ordered oem bearings and seals this time to see if they last longer than the previous manufacturer. Two of the oem yamaha bearings only have a seal on one side of the bearing. which way does this bearing get installed? open side towards the other bearing?
 

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Oem bearings are damn expensive. Went through motosport first then double checked at rmatv and they were like $15 cheaper per bearing. Easy part is buying them...now the hard part.
 

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The oem lasted so much longer than anything I have put in there. I figured Id give it another try. Turns out this bearing I'm talking about is the outside one near the seal, so the open side goes in? Why is there no seal here?
 

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that was what ive been reading lately, oem will last longer than the aftermarket ones. that makes it worth spending the extra money. not sure about your question, i havent made it that far. hopefully you get some answers so i dont have to ask them later haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The oem lasted so much longer than anything I have put in there. I figured Id give it another try. Turns out this bearing I'm talking about is the outside one near the seal, so the open side goes in? Why is there no seal here?
I would give who ever gave you the bearings a call. I know when I took the oem out they all had the side seal on there and then you have the two outer seals for the ends of the carrier.
 

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Unfortunately, I ordered these bearings a while ago from RMATV, I believe. The oem parts finder that this and many other sites use shows two different part numbers for these bearings ( #3 and #7 on the REAR ARM page ). The only difference that I now see is on #7, part number 93306-90805-00, has only one seal. FUCK! $35 a piece! Its too late to return them. Why would they do this? 93306-90804-00 is the bearing you want X 4. I'm baffeled. Maybe I can reuse a seal from the old bearings that I tore out? I'll probably be back in there in a year or two anyway. LOL.

On a side note, inspect the surfaces on the brake hub and sprocket hub . Make sure they are clean and not all gouged up. If they are, the seal wont hold back the mud and water and the bearings will fail fast anyways. Just my .02. I like the extra grease idea. They deffinately dont look like there is enough when they are new.
 

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I took the axle with original bearings out of an 07 carrier last weekend and one of the bearings on each side only has one seal and it is towards the other bearing but not sure which one it is or if it matters.
The sprocket side bearings are still on the axle, I can knock them off and see tomorrow night if needed.
 

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The bearings I put back in were a double wide bearing so it just took one per side and I didn't bother to see which one went where.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I need to replace my bearings since they failed me in the woods a couple months ago...not sure of the extent so I was considering replacing the entire carrier with bearings include in attempt to save time and frustration in the end. Whats everyone's thoughts on this? Anyone recommend a good brand/place to buy the entire carrier?

Here's what Im looking at getting...

http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/ModQuad-Rear-Carrier-Bearing-Black-Anodized-CB1-p/4085543.htm?Click=35177

Thanks!! 8)
ModQuad makes decent stuff and it would save you some time putting everything back together. My cousin toasted his YFZ bearings and he had problems getting everything off so good luck with it. The part that I liked about putting everything back together was, I was able to add some more grease in between the bearing races.
 

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Ok so I have a few questions that may sound extremely dumb but I just bought a 2007 raptor 700r & after about an hour of riding it I noticed my tire wobbling. Brung it home and noticed it was completely open inside the swing arm on the sprocket side. (The right side is tight and does not move when on jack stands but the left side moves freely) from what I can see it bounced around inside quite a bit and is a little gouged but doesn't look completely screwed. Not sure if there is even a carrier inside or what exactly happened but haven't been able to take it apart to see how bad it is. Not sure what parts to get if I need a new axle, swing arm etc. if anyone has some advice or experienced this with their raptor please lmk. Also I am new to this forum and this is my first raptor so bare with my low knowledge of parts on this bike. Thank you!
 
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