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Even with all this info, I still have a question. My 02' has a flat washer between the stock 52 tooth gear and the timing chain gear. Does it need to stay?
 

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I saved your pictures Quadmanic - Like I said I still have my original paper copy I printed off in case I need to take it out to the garage with me. But these can be preserved like an ancient artifact!!! Nice post sticky point to you!!! =)
 

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I have just joined this board in order to help a buddy who seems to be having this problem with his Raptor 350 but I can't find any information on this issue with that model. Does anyone have any experience that could tell me if the procedures are the same for both models? Any help you can provide is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 

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Master of the Electron
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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
If you haven't been there already, try a new posting in the Raptor 350 section of the forum... I expect you'll get a lot more intelligent answers there.

From the BikeBandit micro-fiche, it looks pretty similar. I would expect that you could use the raptortranny info as an assist. Only thing not shown is the flywheel, so I don't know how to get it off... I bet you'll figure it out if it is different. Picture below from BikeBandit:
 

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Great post and info.....BUT.... I have a question. I just pulled off the flywheel, and found that all 6 screws had been sheared off! WTF? I found five of the heads in the bottom of the engine....and have NO CLUE as to where the 6th one went?? Is there anyone out there that can offer any help on this? Thanks!
 

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Master of the Electron
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Discussion Starter #27
Answered in your PM... but this is common - the bolts loosen up, then shear off under starting forces. Find missing heads with a telescoping magnet in the sump.

Use red loctite and torque to spec and it won't happen again.
 

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Good post it's really helpfull and the pictures are worth a thousand words. I have a problem though, I recently aquired a 660 Raptor but it had the one way bearing already taken off and the nut holding the flywheel and gear was missing so was the woodruff key. Can anyone tell me what size nut it is and what kind of thread count? It's a 2002 660 Raptor. Thanks in advance!
 

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Hey guys!
i finished it this morning. tried to start it but its not starting. i hear the motor turn this time but it wont start. is there any timing to do? Cleaning the carb!? i dont have any idea of what to check by now.
At least my one way problem is gone.
 

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Master of the Electron
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Discussion Starter #32
It's a thrust washer between the 52T's bushing and the crankshaft face. It should be replaced with the proper stainless thrust washer.
 

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Great!! Another special part i'll have to order and wait for before i can here my raptor run! I was able to take care of the welded on flywheel and saved the threads to hold it on but I guess the guy that had this raptor before lost that thrust washer. its a stainless steel washer would i have a chance finding it at a hardware or store or should i just go ahead and order it?
 

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if you find someone who could give you the exact mesurement (Ext. diameter, Hole diameter, Thickness) In 0.001 tolerance, bring it to a machine shop, and it will cost you about 5$
I don't know how its worth on ebay or yamaha dealer but if you can save money this way, it's not too hard.
 

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Master of the Electron
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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
The Yamaha OEM one-way costs more than the better, aftermarket units, not the opposite as you state.

The OEM one-way is typically $270 WITHOUT the 52T gear (have you found one somewhere significantly cheaper?)

The L&A and Extreme one-ways are on the order of $250 WITH the 52T.

With this in mind, one should NEVER consider re-installing an inferior, more expensive OEM starter one-way.
 

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Well I might as well just blow my shit up. I have an brand new OEM one-way with 52 tooth. I was able to get it for 2 bills though. Guess I should have just spend the extra 50 bucks and gotten the L&A. I'll sell someone a brand new OEM with 52 tooth cheap! 200 bucks! + shipping!
 

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Master of the Electron
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Discussion Starter #39
Hey, your existing OEM one-way lasted for what - 7 years plus? (I don't know the year of your bike)... So you can expect that again. The bottom line is that the aftermarket units are better, should last a lot longer, and on average, are cheaper.

That said, you got a good deal and I wouldn't sweat installing another OEM unit... it SHOULD last quite a while.
 

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Haha, true. My bike is an '01. It went out last August, so it lasted its way through the wars I guess you could say. I don't put the miles on the bike like some others do as well. That makes me feel better, thanks QM.
 
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