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I was refering to buying the 52 tooth gear when I ordered the one way. I had not even considered the OEM part, sorry for the confusion. I will be ordering the complete L and A unit, I have heard nothing but good things about these.
Thanks for the info!
 

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I will have a few good OEM one-ways sitting around soon as I am replacing mine with the L&A's. Already have one in my 04 and going to order one for my 01 when I see if the 52 tooth gear is good or not. But I also am going to be running 14:1-13:1 pistons with no decompression's :eek: I hope it works:cool:
 

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IDK lol it did just fine with a 11:1 with no base gasket and only 1 section of the head gasket so I hope it will work but we will see lol. I don't have the option of installing a decomp as one cam is welded shut:eek:. I'm gonna give it a shot though. With the big cables and Batt it should work.....I hope.
 

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Me to lol
Depends on the cam you're running. I tried the "no decompression" with my stage 2 cam and it didn't work. I was going to end up burning up relays and starter motors even with that Big A$$ Grizzly battery and the #4 battery cables. It's a wonderful concept for a race bike only but if you're doing both trails, drags and bull crap riding then find an aftermarket set if decompression pins that bolt on like the ones that Weller Racing sells and you won't ever drop a weight down into your motor. (big daddy, who is on this site, also had an innovative design he may still offer)

http://stores.intuitwebsites.com/wellerracing1/-strse-66/Rhino-660-Camshaft-Pins/Detail.bok
 

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Depends on the cam you're running. I tried the "no decompression" with my stage 2 cam and it didn't work. I was going to end up burning up relays and starter motors even with that Big A$$ Grizzly battery and the #4 battery cables. It's a wonderful concept for a race bike only but if you're doing both trails, drags and bull crap riding then find an aftermarket set if decompression pins that bolt on like the ones that Weller Racing sells and you won't ever drop a weight down into your motor. (big daddy, who is on this site, also had an innovative design he may still offer)

http://stores.intuitwebsites.com/wellerracing1/-strse-66/Rhino-660-Camshaft-Pins/Detail.bok
I am running a stage 3 cam in the 14:1 686 and a x-4 cam in the 13:1 720. The stage 3 cam has been welded shut so it ain't ever gonna be able to run the decompression but the x-4 can have the de-compression added. Wee will see shortly if my Kenz piston ever come. Ben a couple weeks so far.
 

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I finally took some time and replaced mine last night. Really the hardest thing was cleaning the gasket off the cover...lol!

The L&A unit works perfectly, I am a happy camper again!!!
 

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I took a grinder and a punch and now I will be able to use my decompression setup. I'm gonna weld the pins and not pay $40 for two bolts:wow:. They get alot of money out of them suckers. I also have a L&A on the way for my 01 so It should work just fine now. I was pulling the stock one way last night and one of the allen bolts stripped. That was a pain. I ruined about 5 drill bits until I found my good bits lol. But I will be running the decompression on one build and will make the other one functional again before I put in the 13:1 piston.
 

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I took a grinder and a punch and now I will be able to use my decompression setup. I'm gonna weld the pins and not pay $40 for two bolts:wow:. They get alot of money out of them suckers. I also have a L&A on the way for my 01 so It should work just fine now. I was pulling the stock one way last night and one of the allen bolts stripped. That was a pain. I ruined about 5 drill bits until I found my good bits lol. But I will be running the decompression on one build and will make the other one functional again before I put in the 13:1 piston.
I think that's a good call dog, and welding up the back of the pins then grinding them smooth should work just as well. No decompression is great for bikes that don't get started multiple times during the ride and stay close to the truck and toolbox, perfect for a full race only bike. I bought the Weller pins and I'll endorse them, they work very well but you will have to dip into a $50 bill to own a set...the good news is it's a part you buy once, hopefully.
 

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I think that's a good call dog, and welding up the back of the pins then grinding them smooth should work just as well. No decompression is great for bikes that don't get started multiple times during the ride and stay close to the truck and toolbox, perfect for a full race only bike. I bought the Weller pins and I'll endorse them, they work very well but you will have to dip into a $50 bill to own a set...the good news is it's a part you buy once, hopefully.
Yeah I was gonna go without them then I remembered the 50deg day needing a big battery to jump it off of. Then I found all my decompression parts so it made the decision easier...
 

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The whole reason my one way failed is the so called ATV mechanic didn't bother to locktite the bolts and found part on a thread in the one way rollers

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #58
If your 52T isn't smooth as a baby's butt (and if your one-way grenaded it probably isn't) then it will just damage the new one-way.

IMO. get it!
 

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Im in the middle of doing an L&A one way and 52 t. gear. I have a 2001 raptor 660 and on the stock set up it has a bearing that the one way rides on and the new L&A has a bushing. Do I pop the bushing out and run the bearing? Or does it just ride on the bushing??? If so on the bushing do I leave the original washers that are behind the original bearing?? Please help so I can get this done today!!! Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Use the bushing with the thrust washers, if i recall correctly.
 
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