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Discussion Starter #1
So I recently got done building my 660 back up and things were looking good. I took her down a dirt road and stopped at the end to check things out and she was idleing a little high so I adjusted it down. It immeadiately died and when I tried to start it my starter relay stuck and she still wouldn't start ( I broke the relay to make it stop turning over ). I know the relay is an easy fix but I have had a hell of a time getting it to run since it happened. It seems like the compression was wayy to much for the starter so I Thought my Decomp. mech. was messed up, checked it and it was good. Next step was the carbs, I pulled them off and noticed water on the butterfly side. Then I thought about it and noticed it would smoke white when I could get it to run. I checked my overtemp light and sure enough, it's out. SO...... I'm thinking I overheated the piss out of her and messed up the head gasket and it's letting water into my cylinder. This would also explain the starter seeming weak right? Anyone had similar experiences? I'm hoping it's just the gasket and I didn't crack my head or sleeve.

BTW. My setup is '02 660, full FMF exhaust, K&N with out the lid, 11:1 comp. wiesco, hotcams stage 1

I think thats all, let me know if you need any more info to help troubleshoot
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Actually the coolant bottle was bubbling and burping a little, not a massive overflow though. I haven't drained the oil yet. I guess that is the next order of business then. I'll post results.
 

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Just drained the oil, looks like milk. Now what?
 

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hamiltonsandm said:
Just drained the oil, looks like milk. Now what?
Well that means she's wet somewhere. Flush the engine out with oil to remove the water (there are other methods but I prefer this one). Then you need to check your water jackets for fidelity and your head for warpage.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What exactly are the "water jackets" and will head warpage be obvious or do I need to take it to a machine shop. If it's warped can I have it milled flat or is it junk? I have a feeling this will be more expensive than I want it to be.
 

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water jackets are the areas around the cylinder and head where the coolant mix flows, make sure they're not blown out somewhere or cracked. If your head is warped bad enough that you can see it you may really be in trouble. If you don't have the means to measure yourself any good local shop can take a look at it for your for pretty cheap. Be warned, they'll be more likely to recommend new if it's the Yamaha dealership.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, so i got home today and pulled the valve cover. Everything seemed in order, so I proceeded to take off the head and I think I found the problem. It was WAY to easy to break torque on the four main bolts holding the head on. Maybe my torque wrench needs recalibrated. Anyway, I took the head off and found a jug full of coolant and what comes with coolant in the jug? CORROSION. :mad: I'm upset. Most of it came out with a shop rag and trusty WD40 though. :thumbsup: Then I oiled the piston up and gave it a few turns, seems to be ok. I have pics but I'm not sure how to post them.

So here is my new Q's.

1. Does undertorqued head bolts sound like a problem? (Coolant leaks into jug, past rings into oil?)

2. Should my piston and jug be ok after cleaning up the minor corrosion?

3. Has anyone tried the copper head gaskets on EBAY? Or can someone recommend a really good one?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My impatience got the best of me and I put everything back together while I wait on the new head gasket. This time the head bolts did get torqued properly. I started it and it ran like a champ except for white smoke, then milky oil. So I should have waited on the head gasket. This is what is bothering me, I pulled the radiator cap with it running and there was quite a bit of suction in there and the bike IMMEADIATELY idle up and ran smoother. At that point I cussed the bike and shut it off. Why would this happen? :3question:
 

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head gasket blown...question is, was it high comp piston that did it, or something else...i use cometic head gasket, made for HC piston.

the bubling isnt good, could be blow by from gasket and engine compression passed the gasket, or could be boil over. Dx by cold start with system closed (rad cap on). If it is cold and bubbles, id say it is blow by

starter works hard because coolant leaks into you cylinder and creates more compression, thus the white smoke. Hope you valves and connecting rod survived. on cold start, pul the plug and cycle the starter a few times...this tells you there is no mechanical probs r/t damage or other issues because the engine will have no compression. It will also blow out you cylinder if there is any coolant in there so you dont damage anything.

let the force be with you
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks bro, I was thinking the same. I talked to Mike at ripper racing and he pretty much confirmed my suspicions. He told me to also check the sleeve inside the jug and make sure it hasn't moved at all. He said he's seen that before. Anyway, I've got a Cometic Head gasket on the way, last one was a K&B. We'll see if there's a difference.

Thanks for the reply bro
 

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You should keep changin the oil to flush it out until it no longer looks like milk. I got a lawn mower for free tha my uncle left outside with the crb open anf it had so mauch water in it when I dained the oil pure water came out at first. I changed the oil 3 times... brought it up to temp and changed t again. uns like a top now.
 

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You should have the head checked for flatness every time you pull it off. Chances are, you pulled it off, and reinstalled it and it was warped, thus a part of the gasket didn't have proper clamping force and blew. Happens on automotive motors regularly.

Copper gaskets are only good because they're re-usable.

As for undertorqued head bolts, yes, that goes back to my first comments ^.

Minor corrosion isn't that big of a deal, but I'm more worried about your bearings. But if it was run like that only very briefly, you're probably OK.
 
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