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Crash Test Pilot
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok so here goes nothing. I've got an '05 660 with a k&n proflow and Dr. D slip-on. i'm running 170/175 mains, 22.5 pilots, needles at the middle (3rd) notch and fuel screws are out three turns. the throttle seems to crap out and act as if its hitting a rev limiter if I hit WOT. It runs good and strong if i ease on the throttle but just pinning it open makes it act up. It only seems to be from about 3/4-WOT. which makes me think its the clips on the needles.

I've been racking my brain trying to get this right and have finally resorted to posting here like the rest of the noobs. Not sure whats goin on. Any advice on this would be great.

Do I need to move the clips? or...
 

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Master of the Electron
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I think the 170L/175R is a bit large for the slip on - 160L/165R would be more likely with slip on and open airbox.

22.5 pilots are too small for your open airbox and this could explain the hesitation when coming hard onto throttle. 25's should resolve this. I'll bet you have popping on decelaration too?
 

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Crash Test Pilot
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315 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I think the 170L/175R is a bit large for the slip on - 160L/165R would be more likely with slip on and open airbox.

22.5 pilots are too small for your open airbox and this could explain the hesitation when coming hard onto throttle. 25's should resolve this. I'll bet you have popping on decelaration too?
I do have the 160/165 mains already. I figured the pilots would be ok considering its all stock motor other than the intake, slip-on and no lid. I guess I'll go get some new pilots tmro.

so do you think that the clips and needles are ok where they are at? and yeah maybe a little decel pop, was more worried about the accel part:metal:

Ok i guess i'll post back tmro after getting the new pilots. Thanks for the help QuadManiac.:beer:
 

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Master of the Electron
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Opening up the intake and, especially, removing the lid greatly increases air flow and requires 25's. Notice, you didn't mention no lid in your first post, but I knew that was the case from your symptoms.

It's a pain to keep removing carbs and changing jets, but you may have to a couple more times to get it dialed in... definitely go 25 pilots, but try 165L/170R mains... if it runs good, great. Else, if it bogs some at WOT then, because its a slip on - not a full exhaust, you'll have to drop them again to 160L/165R.

Remember symptoms will show up due to:

idle to 1/4 throttle is pilot jets/fuel screw setting (CCW is richer). Also hesitation when coming hard on throttle, hanging idle (takes a while to come back to proper idle) and popping on decel means too lean.

1/4 to 3/4 throttle is needle position

3/4 to WOT is main jets

There is a little overlap, but this is where you start when troubleshooting mixture issues.
 

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Crash Test Pilot
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315 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Opening up the intake and, especially, removing the lid greatly increases air flow and requires 25's. Notice, you didn't mention no lid in your first post, but I knew that was the case from your symptoms.

It's a pain to keep removing carbs and changing jets, but you may have to a couple more times to get it dialed in... definitely go 25 pilots, but try 165L/170R mains... if it runs good, great. Else, if it bogs some at WOT then, because its a slip on - not a full exhaust, you'll have to drop them again to 160L/165R.

Remember symptoms will show up due to:

idle to 1/4 throttle is pilot jets/fuel screw setting (CCW is richer). Also hesitation when coming hard on throttle, hanging idle (takes a while to come back to proper idle) and popping on decel means too lean.

1/4 to 3/4 throttle is needle position

3/4 to WOT is main jets

There is a little overlap, but this is where you start when troubleshooting mixture issues.
I know all about the take em off put em on game. did it like 7 times yesterday. thanks again for the input.
 

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Master of the Electron
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15,074 Posts
ALSO, unfortunately, we can't take shortcuts - make sure to test jetting with full aircleaner and all other intake components connected - as they would be when riding.
 

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I am unique
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22,621 Posts
Ok so here goes nothing. I've got an '05 660 with a k&n proflow and Dr. D slip-on. i'm running 170/175 mains, 22.5 pilots, needles at the middle (3rd) notch and fuel screws are out three turns. the throttle seems to crap out and act as if its hitting a rev limiter if I hit WOT. It runs good and strong if i ease on the throttle but just pinning it open makes it act up. It only seems to be from about 3/4-WOT. which makes me think its the clips on the needles.

I've been racking my brain trying to get this right and have finally resorted to posting here like the rest of the noobs. Not sure whats goin on. Any advice on this would be great.

Do I need to move the clips? or...
You should also get aftermarket needles...........
 

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Crash Test Pilot
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315 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
You should also get aftermarket needles...........
The bike was already jetted when I bought it. How can I tell if my needles are factory? I did see some etched numbers on the needles but couldn't read what they said. Can you buy just needles? I was under the impression you had to buy a whole kit.
 

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I am unique
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The bike was already jetted when I bought it. How can I tell if my needles are factory? I did see some etched numbers on the needles but couldn't read what they said. Can you buy just needles? I was under the impression you had to buy a whole kit.
Most aftermarket needles have 6 notches............
 

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Crash Test Pilot
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315 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
ok. got the 165/170 mains in. bought new 25 pilots and the needles are on the third clip. fuel screws out 3 turns. K&N proflow no lid, Dr.D slip on. still stumbling at/close to wot.

Willy suggested I get new needles but after talking to the guy at the stealership theres quite a selection to choose from.??? Any ideas what brand or taper or whatever else i need to know about which ones are gonna work for what i got. I dont need anything high dollar cause i dont plan on putting any major money into this bike, Until an upgrade to the 700 comes along. EFI.:D

Do you guys think I'm running too lean/rich still?

And now it's raining so no more "test runs":(
 

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I have the same problem. Been going on for years. Went all the way to 185-190 jets, and have the exact same issue until I put the lid back on. GYTR needles as recommended.. There are a few other threads here that describe this exact issue, but NO resolutions, other than a PB wire (assume you checked that).
 

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As per the carb stickys,I used the Dynojet stage 2 kit,and couldn't be happier.Best needles as per sticky.

Have to buy the 2 #25 pilots seperate,as they are not included.

Again,as per stickys,use the stock slide springs if running without an airbox lid,or the included dynojet slide springs if running with the lid.

My 660 is stock motor, has a full yoshimura,pro-flow K&N with adapter,and no lid,I pulled the carbs off,opened up the intake boots a little as per stickys,installed the dynojet kit with there 146 and 148 mains(DJ sizes),and stock slide springs,needle clip on 3rd clip....and wow,like a totally new bike...idles better,pulls better,starts better,etc...

Later...
 

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Crash Test Pilot
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315 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I have the same problem. Been going on for years. Went all the way to 185-190 jets, and have the exact same issue until I put the lid back on. GYTR needles as recommended.. There are a few other threads here that describe this exact issue, but NO resolutions, other than a PB wire (assume you checked that).
when you take your lid off do you put on an outerwear for the filter or just run it naked?

I GOT IT! 165/170 mains 25 pilots clips on the last notch (needles all the way up). And I even put the outerwear back on;)

Call me a newb or whatever other clever name you can come up with. It was probably just a rookie mistake but, removing the outerwear makes this whole thing happen. was gonna get a new one cause mine was trashed. took it off, not realizing 3 months later it still wasnt there. go through all this bs with the carbs for nothing. put that damn thing back on there and BAM! This bike feels way better than it ever did, now that the jetting is right and the outerwear is back on. Just to test my theory i changed nothing other than just taking it off/on. problem solved. I was amazed that the outerwear could cause that much restriction in airflow. bike runs sweet, cant wait to get 'er out and rip on it.:D
 

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Master of the Electron
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Just think of the additional power with no outerwear and proper jetting for THAT!

LOL, leave it where it is... it's working - why kick the skunk?
 

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Crash Test Pilot
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315 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Just think of the additional power with no outerwear and proper jetting for THAT!

LOL, leave it where it is... it's working - why kick the skunk?
:confused:more power? yeah no way not til it gets traded for a 700. I dont plan on changing nada. Its a ripper as is. and I like it! I aint kicking no skunk but im kinda kickin myself a bit. Oh well, live and learn. Like the quote in my sig. Thanks for all the help guys and i hope this helps others. I can definatly say im alot more familiar with the bike after all this, so I guess its not a total loss. thanks again :beer:
 

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The outer wear is always on, but I tried it off and you cant tell a difference. Maybe if it ran right I could, lol.

Glad yours is running good!
 
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