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Discussion Starter #1
I will soon be installing a full alba pipe, and a K and N dual filter w/ the air box deleting adaptor, and outerwears on the filters.

My bike is an 04 Raptor 660 with no other mods.

I am in Bonne Terre, Missouri 63628, at an elevation of about 400-600 ft.

What is the recommended jetting? I'd like to get it right or at least close the first time, because I don't want to buy a jet kit, I'd rather just buy individual jets.

Thanks in advance,
Chris
 

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prob 27.5 pilots with no air box, and 165 - 170 mains. That's what I would start with. Your going to want the aftermarket needles in the jet kit though, they are only like $50 and deff worth it... I would go with the vitos so you can easily adjusted your idle screws...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks alot! anyone else? just trying to get a general consensus here. Also should one carb be set up different than the other? or equal on both sides?
 

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Left carb(orientation when sitting on the bike) gets a 165 main and the right carb a 170 main, both carbs get a 27.5 pilot. these are mikuni jets sizes, a jet kit will prob have diff numbers....
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Alright, I'll keep that in mind, i have the conversion chart in my favorites, so no worries there. Please feel free to post more opinions, or is everyone in agreement?
 

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I'd start around 160/165 with 25's for pilots.


Any numbers you get will really be nothing but a starting point. From there you'll find the right setup based on reading your plug and feeling where you have/don't have power through the throttle and different gears.

Note: You'll more than likely be into your carbs changing things 2-5 times to get the ideal setup. This isn't uncommon, so I wouldn't bother to put the front plastics on for test riding.

I'd recommend getting a few allen/hex head screws to replace the crappy easy-to-strip brass ones that come from the factory on the bottom of the float bowls. Makes dealing with those carbs a lot easier and quicker !
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I planned on looking for the allen screws after seeing the other threads about carb work. Do you happen to know the size and thread pitch of screws needed?

I also thought the 27.5 pilot was high for a starting point. But Im new to atv carbs. Only worked on Car and truck carbs.

Also, I saw a little graph/chart online somewhere online of how the jets overlapped

like from 0-1/4 throttle is pilot jet, then main jet starts in a little farther along.. etc. anyone know where that chart is?
 

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in my photobucket :lol: hold on... lemme find it haha

As far as the size I don't, but just bring one to the hardware store to match. PDF parts listing should have it somewhere too.
 

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i saved that chart to my computer. thanks seg. i bought a vitos jet kit and it was def worth it. those thumb screws are simply amazing.
 

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I had a similar setup on my quad when I got it. Put a stage 2 hotcam in it and ran with a dynojet jet kit. With their needles I ran 148-L and 150-R mains. This seemed to handle pretty well.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Picture saved, thanks alot. That'll help me figure out the tuning what is the Straight din on that chart and the IMS?
 

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I wondered that too. Perhaps someone will enlighten us...
 

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Two things about that chart - 1) I believe it is 'straight diameter',relative to the diameter of the carb throat. 2) I also believe this is related to a 2-stroke carb, as it refers to idle AIR screw and slow jet (most common in 2-stroke carbs) as opposed to FUEL screw (most common in 4-stroke carbs).

This doesn't mean that it doesn't relate similarly to 4-strokes...
 

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Isn't it the same principal though?
 

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Master of the Electron
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Yes, which is why I added the last sentence... Principle is the same, but some names may be a bit different.

BTW, IMS is idle mixture screw.
 

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I would defintely change the needles since you will need more fuel then the stock needles can supply.............
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I will be. I am now going with either a vitos kit, or piecing together what i need from jets R us. Do you know what needles I should use from jets R us?
 

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straight diameter refers to the diameter of the needle. The larger the diamter the leaner it is around the 1/4 throttle range.


The 3 affects of the needle.
Diameter affects the 1/4 throttle range. Taper affects the transission from the needle to the main jet. Roughly the 3/4 range. The lenght affects the entire range of the needle. All 3 things affect each other too.

Since most of the riding is done on the needle I wouldnt cheap out on them. I prefer to spend a littel more on a GYTR or DYNOJET kit. Your paying for the R&D time they put in to the needles.
 
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