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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a 2005 660 and it has a knocking noise. It does it at idle and while I am reving it. I changed the oil today and it still does it. I rode it for about 10 min today and the temp gauge went all the way up to 270. Any ideas?
 

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does it have coolant in it? it should never go that high. does it still have power or does it feel sluggish? did your fan come on? what mods are done to the engine? is the knocking comming from the top or bottom of the engine? help us help you
 

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how do you know it went to 270 degrees? do you have a gauge?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It has coolant I looked at the tank under the back of the seat. Fan is coming on and I have a gauge in the hose near the exhaust. I really dont think there is any engine mod and the knock to me sounds like it's coming from the bottom end.
 

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I just bought a 2005 660 and it has a knocking noise. It does it at idle and while I am reving it. I changed the oil today and it still does it. I rode it for about 10 min today and the temp gauge went all the way up to 270. Any ideas?
It has coolant I looked at the tank under the back of the seat. Fan is coming on and I have a gauge in the hose near the exhaust. I really dont think there is any engine mod and the knock to me sounds like it's coming from the bottom end.

Looking at the overflow bottle doesnt mean the cooling system is full, Look in the rad...............
And if you just bought the bike and this is the condition you bought it in, most likely it has been overheated if your guage is telling you correctly, Because of over heat conditions, you most likely have piston and or head gasket problems...........
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I did need to add coolant in the rad. I pulled the cam chain tensioner as well and it was fully extended. I really think I might have a head gacket issue but there is no smoke coming from the exhaust.
 

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I did need to add coolant in the rad. I pulled the cam chain tensioner as well and it was fully extended. I really think I might have a head gacket issue but there is no smoke coming from the exhaust.
Unless you remove the tensioner center bolt and spring, the tensioner will always be fully extended when removed............
 

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Hopefully it was reset when put back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
;Thanks for letting me know that. I have done some digging and removed the valve cover. If you are seating on the seat and look in the 2 rockers to the right are able to move. The top of the middle valve looks alittle wore. Are these 2 rocker supposed to be able to move or not? Thanks in advance for all of your help I am very much a NewB!!!!! ;)
 

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;Thanks for letting me know that. I have done some digging and removed the valve cover. If you are seating on the seat and look in the 2 rockers to the right are able to move. The top of the middle valve looks alittle wore. Are these 2 rocker supposed to be able to move or not? Thanks in advance for all of your help I am very much a NewB!!!!! ;)
There are two rockers in the Front of the valve cover and Three rockers in the rear of the valve cover when you are "seating on the seat". In the valve cover, the Rockers should be moving up and down unless the Rocker or the shaft in the valve cover they ride on is bent. What do you mean when you say "the middle valve looks a little wore" -is the top of the valve or spring retainer damaged on the middle valve? Does this motor have stock (single) springs or Dual performance springs on each valve?
 

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It all looks stock and its just the spring retainer that looks wore. I also have a guy telling me it sounds like a crank bearing?
There are vibrating noises, Ticking noises and Knocking noises. Generally a loud prominent knock that keeps in time with the engine as you rev up the RPMs is a sign of a Rod bearing or Crank letting go. It may knock for 1 mile or it may knock for 100 miles, but it's going to let go. You won't know until you split the case and check the service limits/clearance on the rod and crank to determine how bad this is going to hurt your pocket.
Good luck,
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It is consistant with the RPM's. I think I am looking at a crankshaft. Well the good thing is I only spent $1600 on a 05 660. What do ya'll think a shop should charge me to do this. I just dont wanna get burned and I am not taking it to a steelership.:)
 

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It is consistant with the RPM's. I think I am looking at a crankshaft. Well the good thing is I only spent $1600 on a 05 660. What do ya'll think a shop should charge me to do this. I just dont wanna get burned and I am not taking it to a steelership.:)
Find someone in your area that does performance ATV engines with experience. You may want to invest in a hot rods crank and rod and ask them to install it for you. This is a good opportunity to see what is inside this motor and determine if you want or need to upgrade to a new piston, valves and valve job and maybe a better cam. The crank,rod, piston, and valve job with gaskets will set you back 600-800. The full time ATV mechanic can do this in about a week if the machine shop is close by and they're not to busy, they generally get 55-75 per hour. I wouldn't let a dealership do performance builds and performance tuning (They stick to OEM replacement parts by the books), again, find someone who builds racing ATV engines and will pay attention to detail if you're not going to do this yourself.
good luck.
 

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To tell you a little about dealerships in my area, as far as performance work, I imagine they may be good at the job but have no experience in the setting up and setting up for mods. In order to do this properly you need to have hours on the unit you are setting up.
When I give jetting specs or do some wild mods on my bikes, it is because of necessity that i have seen a deficiency in the engine, my oil mod is one and recently i modded a set of trans gears to lock into gear more efficiently. Also the 3 plug mod I have been doing is one wild mod that really improves the efficiency of the engine. This all came from running the trials and or racing or competitions of some sort. Unless you have experience in this, for any one to dial in their bike in the yard is next near to impossible.
I see the local Yamaha dealer about a 1/2 mile up the road here doing some mod work to units and their extent of setting up is a few rips around the yard, and then hopefully it works okay..........
 

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you can try looking for a person that works out of his garage with experience on raptors and save some money.That is what I did he ran my 03 raptor to day with my new wiseco piston it sounded good.He installed a new piston and rear axel bearing for 200.00.I had to by the parts gaskets and all but it's still beats the local shops 65.00 an hour.............:eek:
 
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