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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Should I use lapping compound on this crank?

Wasn’t trusting previous owner since I’m finding all kinds of stupid crap. But needed to know if I should use lapping compound on this crank?

also took the clutch side apart, wanted to make sure the big nuts were tightened to spec.
 

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No, just clean it off.
If there are any burrs, you can hit them with a fine file and finish with Emory Cloth.
If you need to do that, just be sure not to remove any more material from the surface as possible.
Lapping compound is very abrassive, and works like sandpaper.
It can easily remove several thousandths.
Since the crank looks good, you do not want to unesacerily remove material and make the outside diameter of that shaft any smaller.
Especially as the flywheel is technicallt held on by a Taper-Lock, not the nut itself, that is just a safety.
A taper-lock is as it sounds, as the flywheel slides down the taper, it will reach a point of interference fit and lock itself on to the shaft.
That's why you need a puller to remove the flywheel, instead of just being able to remove the nut and slide the flywheel off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No, just clean it off.
If there are any burrs, you can hit them with a fine file and finish with Emory Cloth.
If you need to do that, just be sure not to remove any more material from the surface as possible.
Lapping compound is very abrassive, and works like sandpaper.
It can easily remove several thousandths.
Since the crank looks good, you do not want to unesacerily remove material and make the outside diameter of that shaft any smaller.
Especially as the flywheel is technicallt held on by a Taper-Lock, not the nut itself, that is just a safety.
A taper-lock is as it sounds, as the flywheel slides down the taper, it will reach a point of interference fit and lock itself on to the shaft.
That's why you need a puller to remove the flywheel, instead of just being able to remove the nut and slide the flywheel off.
Appreciate the help. Just needed to make sure, last woodruff in their looked like had slipped a little, had a line through the side of it. Just double checking torque specs on stuff they had already done and reassemble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The dowel pin that holds the impeller for the water pump, can you find that at ace?? I’m here excited to start mounting it back together and little tiny things go missing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
As long as the flywheel still fits tight on the shaft, it will be ok.
So far two threads are stripped on the case. I read heli-coil. I need to learn how to do these anyway. Do I just look it up by the bolt m8, etc?
 

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So far two threads are stripped on the case. I read heli-coil. I need to learn how to do these anyway. Do I just look it up by the bolt m8, etc?
Yes, but keep in mind that their needs to be enough material to drill out a large enough hole to insert the heli-coil.
Sometimes threads can be tapped and repaired(rare with aluminum) or drilled and tapped to the next size.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes, but keep in mind that their needs to be enough material to drill out a large enough hole to insert the heli-coil.
Sometimes threads can be tapped and repaired(rare with aluminum) or drilled and tapped to the next size.
Didn’t even think to go up a size… that would probably be the easier option wouldn’t it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I’m thinking a time sert might be my best option to have a more permanent thread strength compared to the helicoil.

would I get a m6x1.0 kit?? Do the insert sizes matter??
 

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It will all depend on how much material/wall thickness that you have to drill into.
With enough, you may luck out and be able to drill and tap to the next size before having to use a timesert or helicoil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It will all depend on how much material/wall thickness that you have to drill into.
With enough, you may luck out and be able to drill and tap to the next size before having to use a timesert or helicoil.
Anyway to figure out if thread is still good?
just annoyed at putting it together to find out another thread is stripped. Was thinking of doing a couple time serts on four corners of the cover, least I know those 4 points are solid.

was thinking of taking the whole engine out as well, as I know on the clutch side one bolt hole was filled with rtv so I’m assuming that side is stripped too, but that hole is blocked by the frame.

so just debating my options.

figured get a time sert since all the bolts on the crank cases, match the head cover bolts, I can use the kit for both.
M6x1.0 i believe is the one I need?
 

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To find out if the threads are still good I'de run a tap in them, then check with a bolt.
It's unlikely, as aluminum is soft and threads come out easily, but still possible.
I am not positive of the thread size from memory, but M6x1 sounds correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
To find out if the threads are still good I'de run a tap in them, then check with a bolt.
It's unlikely, as aluminum is soft and threads come out easily, but still possible.
I am not positive of the thread size from memory, but M6x1 sounds correct.
Little confusion, does it really matter the size of the insert, I’m assuming if the bolt is longer it will pass through the insert?? Does the insert go in flush with surface or it needs to be pushed into hole as far as possible?
 

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The insert needs to thread in fully, and it will most likely bottom out as it's turned anyway.
Ideally, the heigth of the insert is about the depth of the hole, but not always possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
since I had the stator cover on, I went ahead and set the timing and put the valve cover on.

thought it would be easier to take the motor out to repair whatever threads are messed up for the cases. Time sert should be here Thursday.
 

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Can you weld?

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