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Discussion Starter #1
I was out riding this past Saturday and towards the end of the day I made a solid 1st through 3rd pull and when I let out at the end if the run the quad died. I pulled the plug and checked, no spark, tried a new plug no spark. Question is where to start checking and what are the voltage readings I should be seeing? Thanks in advance!
 

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check the kill switch and the fuse under the seat to start.
mike
 

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Unplug rectifier...does spark return..??...If so,cut the red wire coming up from the stator,should be good.

Check out the stickys in each 660 section...there full of golden information.One sticky goes into this problem in detail.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
If spark returns, cut the red wire from the stator and just forget about it? If spark returns does that mean the stator is bad?

Dumb question, is the rectifier and Cdi box the same thing? If the rectifier is what I am thinking it is I have already unplugged it with no change. Is the rectifier the module that is located just under the left rear fender with cooling fins on it?
 

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If there's no spark, but you get spark after unplugging the rectifier that means your stator is bad, and yes cut the red wire on the stator and just tape it up and forget about it, I did it to mine and haven't had a problem since, I know doesn't make sense but it works Haha that's all that matters, by cutting the wire instead of replacing the stator it will not mess anything else up!
 

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If spark returns, cut the red wire from the stator and just forget about it? If spark returns does that mean the stator is bad?

Dumb question, is the rectifier and Cdi box the same thing? If the rectifier is what I am thinking it is I have already unplugged it with no change. Is the rectifier the module that is located just under the left rear fender with cooling fins on it?
It's not s dumb question lol...there are no dumb questions on this forum :p but yes is the answer .
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, I still don't have spark after unplugging the rectifier, I'm about to pull the kill switch apart, next step?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Found the problem! It ended being a cut wire behind the battery. The wires going to the module being the battery have been taking a beating from the battery moving around. One of the wires was totally broke while others were on there way. I stripped the wire back and twisted it together for a temporary fix to see it would start, hit the button and it fired right up. Thanks for all the help!
 

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Master of the Electron
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Sorry I didn't get to see this one earlier - one of the common issues is battery squashed CDI wires either broken or shorting together - I've mentioned it in at least two other threads in the last week or so.

Good job finding it; now have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sorry I didn't get to see this one earlier - one of the common issues is battery squashed CDI wires either broken or shorting together - I've mentioned it in at least two other threads in the last week or so.

Good job finding it; now have fun!
Thanks for the reply! I was just glad I found the problem and didn't have to start buying parts.
 

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Just as an FYI re the red stator wire...

The stator and CDI's firmware (it is a small computer) used on the 660 hasn't been changed much since the engine was originally used on a kick start motorcycle in, I believe, the early 90's.

The red and red/white stator pair is called the 'rotation direction winding' and was used by the CDI to determine if the engine was turning backwards - which would sometimes happen if the engine kicked back from the compression stroke when kick starting. CDI detection of reverse rotation would prevent spark from occurring.

They didn't change this stuff when they turned the engine into an electric starter for the Raptor - no need to fix it because it was just a feature that wasn't needed anymore. What they didn't realize was that many years down the road, a common failure of the stator was for the red and red/white winding to lose its insulation and short to one of the charge windings - causing the CDI to THINK that the engine was turning backwards... so the software in the CDI turns off the spark! OUCH!

Unplugging the regulator disconnects the three charge windings from everything else, so the short no longer passes any voltage to the CDI and VOILA, spark returns.

So, cutting the red stator wire (if spark has been lost but unplugging the regulator lets spark return) simply removes the false CDI information that the engine is turning in reverse... thereby returning the spark that the CDI had been inhibiting.

An added bonus is that this signal is somehow summed with the pulse coil signal and used to set the reverse RPM limit, when in reverse. Cutting the red wire removes one of the two signals that are added, and so the RPM limit goes way up.

Hope I didn't bore you.
QM
 

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Just as an FYI re the red stator wire...

The stator and CDI's firmware (it is a small computer) used on the 660 hasn't been changed much since the engine was originally used on a kick start motorcycle in, I believe, the early 90's.

The red and red/white stator pair is called the 'rotation direction winding' and was used by the CDI to determine if the engine was turning backwards - which would sometimes happen if the engine kicked back from the compression stroke when kick starting. CDI detection of reverse rotation would prevent spark from occurring.

They didn't change this stuff when they turned the engine into an electric starter for the Raptor - no need to fix it because it was just a feature that wasn't needed anymore. What they didn't realize was that many years down the road, a common failure of the stator was for the red and red/white winding to lose its insulation and short to one of the charge windings - causing the CDI to THINK that the engine was turning backwards... so the software in the CDI turns off the spark! OUCH!

Unplugging the regulator disconnects the three charge windings from everything else, so the short no longer passes any voltage to the CDI and VOILA, spark returns.

So, cutting the red stator wire (if spark has been lost but unplugging the regulator lets spark return) simply removes the false CDI information that the engine is turning in reverse... thereby returning the spark that the CDI had been inhibiting.

An added bonus is that this signal is somehow summed with the pulse coil signal and used to set the reverse RPM limit, when in reverse. Cut ting the red wire removes one of the two signals that are added, and so the RPM limit goes way up.

Hope I didn't bore you.
QM
You sure did. :D
 

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Master of the Electron
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Those Canadians! So intimidated by real knowledge... :D
 
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