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Does anybody have a suggestion on the clearance on the rear end. With the gytr plate I got hung up on everything. I just gave it he!! when I got in a rut. I need to find out how to get better clearance.
 

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yeah it sucks I get hung up on alot of shit but thats the price to pay to be protected :grin_nod:
 

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Bigger tires, or maybe the Spider IRS. :grin_nod:
 

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I run 22" rears and 23" fronts with stock gearing. The whole ride felt weird at first but now I'm used to it and I have no problems. I thought about regearing but I don't mind it so far even in the tight stuff, I just go a little faster ;) The increase in ground clearance should have only been 1" but it was easily 1.5".
 

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I ride in the rockiest trail you probably ever seen and I run the stock rear skid plate with the stock size tires never had damage ..
I run the sidewinder sprocket and the galfer wave rotor
never bent them and I have better ground clearance
I only run the Aluminum engine skid plate
 

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Hippy said:
I ride in the rockiest trail you probably ever seen and I run the stock rear skid plate with the stock size tires never had damage ..
I run the sidewinder sprocket and the galfer wave rotor
never bent them and I have better ground clearance
I only run the Aluminum engine skid plate

Thats funny! As you are probably running in even worst crap than I, I still run the stock swingarm guard too. Now, I would never tell someone to go either way (lean toward the alum or the stocker) but from personal experience having the aluminum one on the yfz and 660 before it...those aluminum ones DO INDEED get hung up on a lot of crap, and can get bent enough to interfere with the sprocket and disc....and play hell for you getting it home.
The plastic ones will slide over things easily and GIVE on impact....and always return back to shape. I have the stock rear sprocket and 07 drilled disc.....and I have NEVER had a problem. After ripping several alum guards off the yfz, I returned to the plastic ones and never had a problem after that! The bottom of the plastic guard is pretty chewed up, and I will probably have to buy a new one soon.....but its a lot cheaper, ligher weight, and more trust worthy in my experience to run the stock plastic one on the rear!
Sometimes rigid aluminum isnt the answer...just like the aftermarket case protectors. Having something rigid like that is going to transfer the "hit" of the chain and end up possibly breaking the case still, or atleast breaking the mounting tabs. I have seen that several times! The best protection for the case is T.M Designs case savers. They are made from there polyurethane (sp) and will take the blow and not transfer it.
Really when it comes down to it, a big enough hit just right is going to cripple both an aluminum skid and/or a plastic skid.
I still HIGHLY recomend the engine skid though made of aluminum. There is NO reason to have that "giving". I have seen people riding the whoops at the ORV park and other places that spear a rock right threw the bottom of the case!
 

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whofarted said:
I put the holeshot H-D's on the rear and now have a wooping 4.4" of clearance with the GYT-r plate.

How are you liking those HD's?

I was thinking about running those for winter. Just the rears though. I already have xcr's in the front
 

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Hippy said:
I ride in the rockiest trail you probably ever seen and I run the stock rear skid plate with the stock size tires never had damage ..
I run the sidewinder sprocket and the galfer wave rotor
never bent them and I have better ground clearance
I only run the Aluminum engine skid plate
Hehe... Well now, I gotta admit, we got some pretty bad rock up here in Wa. State. Some good old fashioned Glacial till on top of solid rock and i'm tellin you i've had some damage. Some of these trails look like a vein out of an aluminum mine. I have a Stainless skid (already been beefed up once) and .190 arm plates with pro armour frame skid and probably wouldnt hurt to get myself an alum. gun for the welder. Thers a lot of sport bike riders here that dont know their bikes only two wheel drive. I dont know Hippy... maybe your rocks are a little more forgiving than these. ;)
 

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I just got my front 23" razrs in the mail, now i just need to find some 22" rears for cheap
 

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I'm about to run some 22s on mine, only cuz thats the only size they're made in (AMS Zippers, or Realtors). How bad does it effect handling?
 

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Sea7Raptor said:
Hippy said:
I ride in the rockiest trail you probably ever seen and I run the stock rear skid plate with the stock size tires never had damage ..
I run the sidewinder sprocket and the galfer wave rotor
never bent them and I have better ground clearance
I only run the Aluminum engine skid plate
Hehe... Well now, I gotta admit, we got some pretty bad rock up here in Wa. State. Some good old fashioned Glacial till on top of solid rock and i'm tellin you i've had some damage. Some of these trails look like a vein out of an aluminum mine. I have a Stainless skid (already been beefed up once) and .190 arm plates with pro armour frame skid and probably wouldnt hurt to get myself an alum. gun for the welder. Thers a lot of sport bike riders here that dont know their bikes only two wheel drive. I dont know Hippy... maybe your rocks are a little more forgiving than these. ;)
I live and ride all over Eastern Washington.....I know the rock's you speak of and I guess I just dont ride where you do. I do a lot of woods riding and mountain trails. Never had a problem with plastic...just had a big problem with aluminum ones getting knocked off my yfz and my aluminum skid on my 660 getting bent up into the disc.

I try to avoid rocks to the greatest extent possible now...and if I do go over nasty areas, I just go slow.
 

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ChoChillin said:
I'm about to run some 22s on mine, only cuz thats the only size they're made in (AMS Zippers, or Realtors). How bad does it effect handling?
..........Makes your CG 2 inch's higher, and increases sidewall roll.
 
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