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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I flipped the lower link on my 660 and the bike dropped about 3" in the rear which was to much for high speed woods riding (the lowering effect may have been influenced by the +3 swing arm). Anyway, while looking at the geometry of the situation I came up with an idea where you can develop your own adjustable height rear link at home for very little time and effort. I only wanted to lower the skid pan about 1 1/2" to gain some more stability on steep hills, inclines and turns but still have about 8" of clearance. So I bought a 2nd rear link off ebay for $10 (just in case I screwed up) and drew a black magic marker line straight down the Center long axis of the link from one mounting hole to the other. The stock shock location is at 2 1/2" from the end of the link. I drew a perpendicular line at 3" down the link and at the intersection of the two lines I drilled a new hole. The new hole is 1/2" lower and 1/2" across from the stock shock mounting hole. This new location dropped my Raptor 1" from 9 1/2 to 8 1/2 at the engine skid plate. You may also explore drilling multiple holes for alternative set ups. I'm considering welding up the old hole just in case it poses a problem in strength but I believe it will be fine. To remove the link place a floor jack under the rear axle, raise the bike way up and place a block or blocks under the motor skid plate then drop the rear until all the stress is off the rear suspension bolts. If your rear tires hit the ground then add more blocks under the bike. Good luck.



 

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If you knew some one who had the elka long travel linkage you could copy that and gain some wheel travel as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If you knew some one who had the elka long travel linkage you could copy that and gain some wheel travel as well.
I did print the elka link off the web and measured the mounting location dimensions. They have their shock mount in the very center of the link, about 3 1/2 - 4" from the end. I didn't know how that would effect my ride height so I was a bit more conservative. Actually 1" lower with a +3 swingarm is perfect for the woods. Now if I could simply relocate that 30 pound grizzly battery and figure out how to keep the front brakes from fading.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
aren't people doing something like this for the raptor 700 or yfz shock upgrade?
I haven't been keeping up with the 700 threads so you may be right...I was just having a creative thought...seldom it turns out for the good :)
 

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Good thinking ranger
 

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I did print the elka link off the web and measured the mounting location dimensions. They have their shock mount in the very center of the link, about 3 1/2 - 4" from the end. I didn't know how that would effect my ride height so I was a bit more conservative. Actually 1" lower with a +3 swingarm is perfect for the woods. Now if I could simply relocate that 30 pound grizzly battery and figure out how to keep the front brakes from fading.
Hey there.
ditch the grizzly battery & put a Lithium Ferrous battery in.
I have one & it starts my 719 sweet as.
I have 13.5:1 CR & no decomp, but the X-4 cam has lots of overlap.
You still running the Stage II?
With the decomp the LiFe should crank it just fine.
I bought an Anti Gravity Battery, but there are now some cheaper options out there.

Front Brakes, fit 450 calipers, job done :)
 

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You can see my writeup that I put into the suspension section about combining the 700/660 rear suspension components. What I found is it increases rear travel, for me it lowered the rear about 1/2 as much as flipping the link (I too was not happy with how low flipping the link made it sit). Now my ride height is where I want it and the ride is much much much smoother. The only downside for some to do the mod is you have to put about $100 into used parts.
 
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