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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a big difference in LT vs Std front suspension.

I have a set of STD +2 ASR arms and Elka elite front shocks,
Is it worth the upgrade to the long travel,
I ride 99% rough, bumpy trails and jump quite a bit.

I like my front end, But, I seem to need more from the front,,,,,
 

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Modding Maniac
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Is there a big difference in LT vs Std front suspension.

I have a set of STD +2 ASR arms and Elka elite front shocks,
Is it worth the upgrade to the long travel,
I ride 99% rough, bumpy trails and jump quite a bit.

I like my front end, But, I seem to need more from the front,,,,,
From what I gather, the LT and STD have the same suspension travel it just the LT has greater shock movement for absorbing the bumpy stuff. I just installed my LT set-up before heading back to IRAQ so I havent had a chance to ride it yet....but I am itching to :eek:

All i know is when I ride her again, the whole suspension will be redone. :D
 

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If it's too loud your too old
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IMO for what you do the setup you have should be fine and it wouldn't be worth the money you'd spend switching to LT. You'd have to buy everything "shocks and A-arms" all over again!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Guys, I was just curious if it was work the swap out.
I would like an LT front though.. :)
 

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If it's too loud your too old
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Or you could do like I did and move your upper mounts so you can use LT shocks with your STD A-arms! I could send you the template to make a pair of your own brackets or for around $200.00 I could make them for you. The reason they are so high is because they are cut by hand from 1/4" plate
 

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From The Stix 2 Da Brix
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Or you could do like I did and move your upper mounts so you can use LT shocks with your STD A-arms! I could send you the template to make a pair of your own brackets or for around $200.00 I could make them for you. The reason they are so high is because they are cut by hand from 1/4" plate
He does great work. I've seen alot of custom parts he's made. He extended my stock swinger +4 and powdercoated that's extra though.
 

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Modding Maniac
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Or you could do like I did and move your upper mounts so you can use LT shocks with your STD A-arms! I could send you the template to make a pair of your own brackets or for around $200.00 I could make them for you. The reason they are so high is because they are cut by hand from 1/4" plate
I see dirt and water spots. NOT COOL CHRIS....:D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
For sure, I'll take fresh "before and After" piccies.
Thanks K...
 

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Not to knock your idea, but would putting in a lowering kit and the longer shocks amount to the same thing?? just wondering.
 

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If it's too loud your too old
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Not to knock your idea, but would putting in a lowering kit and the longer shocks amount to the same thing?? just wondering.
Yup the result would be the same, except I think this is quite a bit stronger. I've beat this setup through the woods and the air with my 220lb fat ass on it for over a year now and have had no problems. I don't think those aluminum lowering brackets would do the same :D
 

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yeah i wasnt to sure of the strength of those brackets. can you flip the rear mount and put a longer shock in aswell?
 

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If it's too loud your too old
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yeah i wasnt to sure of the strength of those brackets. can you flip the rear mount and put a longer shock in aswell?
I've never looked at that real close so I'm not sure. I have a adjustable link on the rear of mine with a 1 1/2" longer Ohlins shock. you can kinda see it in the first pic.
 

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Relocating the upper or lower shock mount does 2 things.

One it alters the suspension geometry. This means the spring rate and valving are no longer on target, and the shock will not be as effective, as tuneable or as smooth.

The second has to do with strength. You can beef up your brackets (as FLwoodsraptor has done) and lessen the chance that they fail or cause major frame damage, but as you strengthen one part you expose the weakness of another. Now the setup posted here by flwoods is better than my durablue upper shock mount relocation brackets that ripped the frame shock mount nearly completely off my bike after a jump, but it's impossible to tell where it's limit is. If you're not jumping then it's probably not a big deal, but if you're not jumping there's little point in having long travel suspension to begin with.

Cutting corners on LT suspension also means you're less likely to actually get more wheel travel. OEM and many standard travel a-arms cannot handle the increased wheel travel without binding. This can cause ball and heim joint failures which is basically losing all integrity of the front end suspension.

In short, (no pun intended), IMO there isn't a cheap and safe and reliable way to cut corners on LT and most recreational riders will not see/feel the difference in a good standard travel setup vs a comparable long travel setup and so it's really not worth the risk to cut corners or the money just to say you have it.
 

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Relocating the upper or lower shock mount does 2 things.

One it alters the suspension geometry. This means the spring rate and valving are no longer on target, and the shock will not be as effective, as tuneable or as smooth.

The second has to do with strength. You can beef up your brackets (as FLwoodsraptor has done) and lessen the chance that they fail or cause major frame damage, but as you strengthen one part you expose the weakness of another. ......
A simple way to understand shock geometry and spring rate is : The more vertical (straigh up and down) the shock is the stiffer the spring will act. for example if a shock mounted at 30 deg. can hold up 200lbs then when moounted straight up and down or 0 degr. it may be able to hold up 250lbs and oposite in the other direction. I am not possitive if the valving is affected in the same way. there is a formula for this somewhere.

The strength factor is mostly because of the extra leverage put on the stock mounts. There is a reason the long travel costs what it does. because the companys have done there research and it works. if long travel was as easy as some flat iron and shocks i am sure everyone would be doing it. that being said i am cheap and would probly do it anyway:D
 

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If it's too loud your too old
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Well like I said I've been beating on this set up for over a year with no problem at all! I've also got two different sets of shocks (Custom Axis and Ohlins TTX Proto types) that I have had valved and sprung for this set up, the Ohlins we're still working on David @ FBI (Fast Bike Ind.) is getting them figured out. He's a factory Ohlins service center in Ga. and a awsome guy if you ever need any Ohlins worked on! I have checked the full range of motion on this set up and I have a full 12" of travel with no binding I didn't just throw it together without checking all the important things like the limits of the balljoints, pinch points at the A-arm pivots and everything else I could think of. I deffinetly wouldn't use it myself or tell others to do it if I didn't know it was a safe set up.:thumbsup:
 
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