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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can someone tell me if they make one for the 700. No help on web search. Thanks!!! :3question:
 

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It's a standard, or at least common, plug size, so you can most likely locate one at an auto parts store.

M14 threads. Just make sure it is about the same length as the stock one. You can put the quad on its grabrail, and remove the stock plug without losing oil. Take that to the store for a comparison.
 

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Cha Ching!


http://www.powerpartsplus.com/pages...12/0/aluminum-drain-plug-hienergy-magnet.aspx

I posted this earlier in the "stripped thread" postings.

It looks sweet, might get one myself except part is $21, which is fine, shipping to Canada, $43, for ground service. Can you say rip off? I might as well pass them a knife so they can cut me a new a$$hole while they're at it.


MK

Here's another

http://www.more-japan.com/SARD-Drain-Plug-MAG-Honda--Mazda-M14-x-15-p-17241.html

good articlea and shop to buy "kits" to fixy fixy

http://www.timesert.com/html/drain-plug-repair.pdf

http://www.timesert.com/html/drainplug.html

Drain plug chips NOTE:
A common question about repairing drain pans on the vehicle,
is how do you keep chips from entering the drain pan?
Answer:
By using some grease on the drill and tap will help
prevent chips from going into the drain pan.
Also drilling by hand instead of using a drill motor would
further reduce the chips into the pan.
Another tip that mechanics do is use the old oil by
pouring back through the engine to flush any remaining chips.
Then after the old drains out replace the plug and continue with the new oil.
Also remember the filter is there to catch any debre from normal engine wear.

I'm quite confident that although the stripped threads issue is a complete nuisense, there are quality repairs available that will fix it once and for all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks alot for the info. This site has been so much help!!!
 

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This site is the best I've ever been a member of.

MK :thumbsup:
 

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I have seen them on e-bay also.. :)
 

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Thats nice but I aint payin $20+ for a drain plug. :crazy:
 

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Why use a magnetic drain plug? The engine is made out of aluminum so school science told me that dont stick to a magnet:unsure:
 

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size12 said:
Why use a magnetic drain plug? The engine is made out of aluminum so school science told me that dont stick to a magnet:unsure:
My guess would be not everything in the motor is aluminum, clutch material maybe ?? :3question:
 

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Big Mike said:
size12 said:
Why use a magnetic drain plug? The engine is made out of aluminum so school science told me that dont stick to a magnet:unsure:
My guess would be not everything in the motor is aluminum, clutch material maybe ?? :3question:
The cylinder and cases are aluminum. The moving parts and bearings for the moving parts are mostly steel.
 

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BJH said:
Big Mike said:
size12 said:
Why use a magnetic drain plug? The engine is made out of aluminum so school science told me that dont stick to a magnet:unsure:
My guess would be not everything in the motor is aluminum, clutch material maybe ?? :3question:
The cylinder and cases are aluminum. The moving parts and bearings for the moving parts are mostly steel.
My thoughts:
Cases, cylinder, piston, head - aluminum
Cylinder sleeve, rings, rod, crank, valves, valve guides, cam, etc - ferrous
Tranny gears/shafts, shifter forks/dogs, PTO shaft -ferrous
Bearings - brass or brass alloy

A magnet will attract stray ferrous particles. But so will an oil filter. Many ferrous particulates of a size that is sub-micron to the filtering ability are picked up by the magnet.

My Dana 44 front and rear ends have a magnetic drain plug, and when the gears were being broken in (locking diffs), I'd do fluid changes. The plugs had this metalflake paste (tiny, tiny bits of metal and 90wt oil mixed into a goo) globbed all over the drain plug and its cavity area.

A magnetic drain plug certainly can't hurt. We spend more at the drive-thru on sh1t that's killing us, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Size12 It would seem you have never rebuilt a engine. Lots of steel gears and bearing races in a cycle engine. It can save you lots of $$ if you know something is coming apart. None of us are to old to learn...
 

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pinnedwfo said:
Size12 It would seem you have never rebuilt a engine. Lots of steel gears and bearing races. It can save you lots of $$ if you know something is coming apart. None of us are to old to learn...
Erm 10 years in the motor trade as a car Mechanic seems to sh!t on your theory!! :'(

As most of the parts of a modern engine are none magnetic
the big end and small end bearings in the engine as phosphorus brass, gearbox bearings are roller bearing not friction and the gears are an alloy so the amount of ferrus material will be minimal that isnt already cought by the filter
If your getting loads of metal in your filter and oil CHANGE it more regular :lol:

But hey its your motor and your $$ so you go for it if it makes you feel better :thumbsup:
 

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This is a great upgrade upgrade. Basically, it is cheap insurance.

I had one on my 660 after my one-way bearing started going out. Even after the one-way had been replaced and after oil changes, I was still collecting a group of metallic particles on the oil plug. I'd much rather have the shavings on the end of the plug rather than f :thumbsup:und in there tearing other stuff up.
 

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My 2004 Ski-Doo sled had one already attached to the dip stick on the chain case. After every ride I could see a minute amount on the magnet. Most of what was on there was the disgusting smelling synthetic gear oil, but it still picked up some finite particles. IMO, it can't hurt. Combine that thing with doing routine oil changes with top quality oil and you should have any issues.
 
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