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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 350 raptor, or at least I think I have. Might also be trapper 350.
But every single part I've found and also whole wiring diagram is from yamaha raptor 350.

Anyway... The old owner removed all lights, kill switches etc...
I stated making new wires for it because the old wires were twisted together and lenghen 3 times each wire with wago connectors etc...
I made my own wiring harnes with main switch and kill switch.
I tested everything before final assembly, motor was running no problem.
Then I zip tied everything together, attached the switches.... and engine does not start. No spark.
I dissasembled everything again and made direct connections. battery positive straight to CDI red/black wire, according to wiring diagram it is battery positive that comes through main power switch and kill switch. so 12+ straight to CDI's red/back wire.
Black wire is battery negative, negative is also connected to ground.
Orange wire form CDI is "signal" for ignition coil.
4 wires coming from AC magneto are connected to CDI through the OEM connector and they are oem.

When trying to start the engine, there is no spark. Checked with different spark plugs.
I measured the coil and it seems fine. Also tried another similar coil and its same.

How can I measure the magneto and is it possible to measure CDI ?

I tried to measure the orange signal wire but either my fluke meter is too slow for it or there is no signal for the coil.

Am I missing something or did the CDI die suddenly?

Here is the wiring diagram I've used. every single wire and connector and colors are exactly same as on mine. But I dont have any yamaha logos or any other logos anywhere.
while doing image search for raptor 350 and trapper 350, it seems exactly like mine. I dont have many plastic parts left so hard to tell, but chassis, suspension, where legs are resting everything is as in yamaha.

Schematic Font Parallel Engineering Diagram
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
UPDATE
I found on yfm350 forums something how to measure stator.

"
To test the Source coil (for the ignition) connect your pocket tester from the white/green wire to the red wire. Resistance should be 270~330 ohms resistance.
To test the pickup coil, connect your tester from the blue to the yellow wire. Resistance should be 171~209 ohms resistance.
"


I dont have blue and yellow wires, but I have white/green and red. Measured between them and nothing.
Shows open circuit. My multimeter has automatic range so its not the issue.

//edit
white/green and red wires are not for the trigger coil.
There are 2 wires that are different. They have "special" sock over them and what I looked for new stator, the 2 special sock wires are for the trigger coil. and its reading 0.4ohms. (multimeter probes together it reads 0.1ohm)
So the trigger coil is shot?
 

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Your looking at the 4 wire, square plug, right.

White/red to white/green is pick up coil 459-561 ohms.

Red to white/blue is kind of like the source coil .083-.101 ohms.

Source coil is replaced with a charging/rotation direction coil. It's used to limit rpm in reverse. And the cdi uses it for confirmation on engine speed.

And stator wires are .51-.63 ohms.

Took me a while to find the specs on the newer year yfm350.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Your looking at the 4 wire, square plug, right.

White/red to white/green is pick up coil 459-561 ohms.

Red to white/blue is kind of like the source coil .083-.101 ohms.

Source coil is replaced with a charging/rotation direction coil. It's used to limit rpm in reverse. And the cdi uses it for confirmation on engine speed.

And stator wires are .51-.63 ohms.

Took me a while to find the specs on the newer year yfm350.
Thanks. I have no idea what year it is.
Pickup coil is 225ohm's, from other forums I saw, that value is good.
Source coil was 0.5ohms. my fluke multimeter is off by about 0.3ohms.
I removed the stator and source coil was like burnt, it was littlebit black and seemed burned.
Anyway I've done coils before on moped stators, I removed the source coil. 45 turns. I rewinded with new wire, new coating, assembled it and problem is exactly the same.
No spark to coil.
There is nothing coming out from orage wire that comes from CDI.
While measuring source coil and rotating engine, it shows AC voltage. So it is good? And the CDI is broken?


Here is picture of my atv, if anyone can tell me, is it yamaha or some chiense? To me it looks like raptor and wiring diagram and colors are same so I think so?

Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Tread
 

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Looks like a couple of Raptor 250's we have had in the past.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Looks like a couple of Raptor 250's we have had in the past.
250 seems too small and 250 has no oil pump between stator and chain.
Mine has oil pump between them and has 2 thick hoses coming and going to front oil cooler.
The old owner said it is 450cc
I will find out what the model and engine is as soon as I get the papers from old owner and also the registration plate.

More important thing is... where is the spark gone.
 

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What is the 10th number of the VIN?
 

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If nothing says yamaha on it, the vin isn't correct, you could have a Chinese copy. Plenty of them were made(that I have seen).

Back to the issue, sounds like your cdi is bad. If it has a safety relay, you might have a bad clutch, neutral, or reverse switch. If it has a clutch switch, make sure it's working. It should start pulling in the clutch(if the switch works).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If nothing says yamaha on it, the vin isn't correct, you could have a Chinese copy. Plenty of them were made(that I have seen).

Back to the issue, sounds like your cdi is bad. If it has a safety relay, you might have a bad clutch, neutral, or reverse switch. If it has a clutch switch, make sure it's working. It should start pulling in the clutch(if the switch works).
I'll check the VIN as soon as Im at the garage.

There is no safety switches, kill switches, clutch switch etc... Everything is bypassed and straight positive wire form battery to CDI and same for negative.
source coil and pickup coils are also connected to CDI but no life.
 

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The safety relay would open or close under different feedback.

If the reverse was engaged, or neutral was off, you'd get one result.

If the reverse was off, neutral was on, or clutch switch on, you'd get another.

I'd think if the reverse switches were open, and neutral was on, it should work. Or, if the clutch switch was on(bypassing the other signals), it should work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The safety relay would open or close under different feedback.

If the reverse was engaged, or neutral was off, you'd get one result.

If the reverse was off, neutral was on, or clutch switch on, you'd get another.

I'd think if the reverse switches were open, and neutral was on, it should work. Or, if the clutch switch was on(bypassing the other signals), it should work.
The reverse switch and clutch wires are gone, no wires coming from switches. I have started this engine before IN REVERSE, IN GEAR, only with clutch, without clutch by pushing it...
 
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