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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Picking a new exhaust was a tough choice, but i went with the Monster Big Bores. Install was relatively easy, here are the steps it takes.

1: Unbox and lay it all out to see what you have. 2 headers, 2 midpipes (atatched to headers), 2 cans, 4 heat shields, and a bag of hardware. (NO Exhaust gaskets though) The midpipes are marked "L" and "R".


2: In the bag of hardware you will find some zip ties, heat tape, and a stator wire heat shield. It is much easier to put them on now, rather than when your exhaust is already mounted. Wrap your stator wire with the heat tape around the bottom 3-4 inches. ALSO wrap the crank position sensor wire with the heat tape, as it will be very close to the backside of the left header. Install the stator wire heat shield and pull the wires away from where the left header will be running, using the zip ties to secure them.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
3: Unbolt the left rear fender from the heelguard, and the grab bar. Remove 2 bolts on rear grab bar, this is where the cans will mount.


4: I had to remove the left header stud on the left side to get the header in without forcing it.


5: Remove midpipes from headers. Run the headers through the frame from front to back. Leave the plastic on for now so you dont get it scratched up. Re-install the header stud, install NEW exhaust gaskets, and loosely attatch header flanges.


6: install the midpipes, and cans leaving the bolt in the silencers loose until adjusted.


7: Adjust the system to get the best clearance everywhere, especially the left side. Dont worry about it touching the plastic, we will deal with that later. Mostly make sure its not contacting any wiring or the frame.


8: Once satisfied with the fit, tighten everything down, and re-check for wiring or anything that is too close to the exhaust. Ziptie anything out of the way if you need to.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
9: locate the area of the left rear fender that touches the midpipe. Hold the plastic close to where the mounting holes would line up and use a marker on the underside of the fender to mark out a small half circle to be cut away. You want about 1/2 inch clearance to the pipe.


10: Cut the half circle out. A dremel tool would make this job easy. Or you can take the plastics off, cut it with a razor knife (be careful dammit) and then sandpaper it like i did. Re-install fender bolts and check clearance.


11: Remove platic bags from headers, and use brake cleaner on a rag and wipe down the stainless steel pipes to remove any dirt or fingerprints.

12: Optional- install the heat shields on both sides. They are labeled in the packaging "F" and "R" but its pretty obvious which one goes where.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
13: CHANGE YOUR MAP! Find a map that closely resembles your setup if you have a PC or MSD, or be prepared to dial in your dobeck style controller for the new pipes.

14: Take some time to oogle your new exhaust, it will never look this good again!
 

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Those black cans with the red m on them look killer. I always wear gloves when I'm working with exhaust so the oils from your hands don't get on the pipes and turn them a ugly color.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Those black cans with the red m on them look killer. I always wear gloves when I'm working with exhaust so the oils from your hands don't get on the pipes and turn them a ugly color.

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Thanks! I think so too.

Thats a really great idea about the gloves! I would have never thought of that, and i even have a box of neoprene gloves i use for oil changes and internal engine work.



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I like the idea of the heat tape & heat shield. Think I will rig something up on the wife's bike that I just did. This is worthy of a sticky! Great write up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I like the idea of the heat tape & heat shield. Think I will rig something up on the wife's bike that I just did. This is worthy of a sticky! Great write up.
Thanks! The heat tape and heat shield were not my idea, they were part of the kit, but they seem to work well! They do not include the crank position sensor wires in the guide, but it is just as close to the header as the stator wire on my raptor so i wrapped it too. I also put a little heat tape on the frame where the midpipe was super close


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Discussion Starter #9
Man, i just rode the ol' rappy around in the yard for a minute and it seems like a totally different machine. It REALLY wants to lift the front! Its amazing the difference in power from what i had before, cant wait to get it somewhere i can open it up a little and see what it does. I went from a single slip on, to true duals with a throttle body upgrade and i couldn't be happier..... for now

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Yup, it gets addicting. I thought I was happy with big 3, then on to the big 6....now I am on the verge of going BigBore, lol. Sure beats walking the streets pimping....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the write up. just ordered these bad boys myself with the shorty cans! looking forward to throwing them on!
Sweet! Dont forget to post some pics, and feel free to add anything that may help someone in the future

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Discussion Starter #15
Did you have to use any exhaust silicone anywhere?


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Nope. Its all slip fit and tightens/seals itself as it warms up

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just threw my shorties on last night. they look great. ill have to take some pics tonight. assembly was super easy. like 4stroker said, just loose fit it all and it was a breeze!
 
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